Scotts build thread

I have heard mine should be set right out of the box. You can adjust per throat, or bank adjust also. Being fuel injected, it should run over any minute differences if there is any. I also have a vacuum block coming that will tie all of the individual vacuum signals together also. I will need a summed signal for the w/g, bov, and boost solenoid to operate correctly.
I am a long ways from attempting to fire that thing, but if it starts to give me a headache, I will keep it in mind. Thanks for the offer.
 
Scott, that would look really great with Fran's new FRP vents molded in.

I had seriously considered it, but I think my intake will be sticking through in that area, which means I would be cutting Frans style apart to fit. I should be receiving the flange mid next week, and the acrylic top for intake will be done tomorrow, so I can see what clearancing needs to happen.
 
Rear decklid is ready for step two now.
To share a couple tricks with finishing large panel fb or just bondo tips. I use a 10" sheetrock knife (sheetrock mud spreader tool) to apply the bondo. You can get it dam close to flat on each application and is a must for doing large panel application. Also, have a wood rasp ready. While bondo is firm, and not yet hard, you can do most of your shaping with the rasp. Will save you hours of sanding, and lots of material. Between the two, start to finish on this piece was only 4 hours. That includes the fiberglassing also.

Little hard to tell, but here is the first application coat of bondo. No way you will get this using anything other than a medium size sheetrock knife.





The acrylic top is already done. Won't have the flange until late this week. I lucked out that the inlet tubes from the previous layout fit perfectly and already has the bov's mounted. Saved a little time there.

 
Step one of what is bound to be a very itchy and scratchy next couple months. Ugh.

Better you than me brother ;)

Spreading 'bondo'-
Why do you think both the construction and the automotive body repair trades call it "mud"?

Large aluminum yacht builder - Spreading mud on your tail section is a 'big' area. I have seen (first hand) a new under-construction 150 foot aluminum hull yacht covered from one end to the other with mud, and then long boarded straight. :stunned:

True story.
 
Better you than me brother ;)

Spreading 'bondo'-
Why do you think both the construction and the automotive body repair trades call it "mud"?

Large aluminum yacht builder - Spreading mud on your tail section is a 'big' area. I have seen (first hand) a new under-construction 150 foot aluminum hull yacht covered from one end to the other with mud, and then long boarded straight. :stunned:

True story.

Yup! Once I got good at smooth finish walls years ago (Which sucks to sand also!) I took some of my sheetrock tools and applied it to bondo. Works like a charm! WAY easier and not waste about half of your material. The trick is being fast enough to spread faster than the bondo starts to set up. Other trick is to not try to get perfect first shot unless you are practiced enough to do so. The more you fuck with it, the worse it will get.
 
Another good trick.....especially for large curved areas is to acquire some formica scraps from a countertop shop. Pieces about a foot wide and however long are straight edged and will conform nicely to all but the most radical curves. The melamine surface is nice and smooth and cleans up very well after use.
 
Build tip*

Helping door gaps.

So, I am sure when the body buck was made, it was solid. Once frp panels laid up, the frp is a little flexible. Point is, the roof area by rear of doors is controlling your rear body width a touch. So when you lay the body on the frame and it relaxes, you are actually making the door area smaller. Try spacing up the center rear of the body, then fasten on sides or make permanent attach point at rear of roll bar to help keep it in place.
Doing this raises roof up and in, making it so you can shut doors further, to get outside of door flush.

..........on my car atleast. :)
 
Well crap. My whole month off is turning into just 2-3 days. I hate it when phone rings off hook with previous customers the second I finish another job. Better than having to burn car parts for heat though i guess. lol
 
Yup, nobody wants to wait. I tell them I am taking some time off, and they give me the look of, we will find someone else. Lol.
Atleast on one job, I will be hanging from a basket installing siding on a huge house on stilts, 60'+ off the ground on a 45 degree slope for a month or so. Fuck! Better bring a piss jar and hope we have a calm fall weather!

Was able to get a couple things done today though. Got part of the rear center wing started. Mold is 1" foam insulation with 1" pvc cut in half to make the top radius. Also laid up what will be the radius going to the decklid.





This is by no means even close to done, but can get a better idea of it now with a piece to get the visual.
 
I like the idea. I spent some time staring at mine, wondering if I could incorporate something like that. After several minutes the proverbial voice in my head said "quit staring off into space and get back to work". If my garage was a production area my boss would have fired me long ago for the inefficiencies!

A.J.
 
Scott, Have you ever used short strand or long strand reinforced fiberglass body filler? It works great for bonding parts together. Very strong.
 
Yup, nobody wants to wait. I tell them I am taking some time off, and they give me the look of, we will find someone else. Lol.
Atleast on one job, I will be hanging from a basket installing siding on a huge house on stilts, 60'+ off the ground on a 45 degree slope for a month or so. Fuck! Better bring a piss jar and hope we have a calm fall weather!


So what I gather you saying is that you can't hit a toilet from 60' in the air?
 
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