Ya, no way it is fitting under the stock rear deck. Hahaha. Will design the body around it.
Scotts build thread
- Thread starter Scott R.
- Start date
Base almost complete.
No special tools, just a cut off wheel, drill, and a press brake.
No special tools, just a cut off wheel, drill, and a press brake.
Scott, is that TWM/Borla injection?
It is OBX Al. They taylor alot to the import world with tons of parts.
The manifold needed to be clearanced a bit, but other than that, it appears to be very good quality and everything sealed bearing. Throttle actuation is very smooth also. I have researched them on the 1uz for months now, and that is the only complaint I found was the clearancing. Guys who had them running had no complaints.
A little further.
Hmmm...would I be jumping to conclusions if I guessed what the diagram on the breather cap was saying? 
Did you paint the valve covers black? Love the intake, can't wait to see how you address the clearance issues with the body.
A.J.
Did you paint the valve covers black? Love the intake, can't wait to see how you address the clearance issues with the body.A.J.
Yes AJ, two in the pink, and one in the stink. Bwhahaha. Sad to say, it was the only cap that fit and was gold anodized I could find. May change the emblem at some point, but kind of funny also to leave it and see how many chuckles it gets.
Got a plan for the body work. Getting some insiration from the Caparo T1. The clearancing they did for the motor and the gills running down the side. Very smooth way of doing it and has function.
The covers were already painted black. But, I plan to paint the entire drivetrain black. Something sinister about all black motor and trans. For the entire "go kart" chassis, it is either black, gold, or polished alum/s.s. It should look as good with body on as with off.
Got a plan for the body work. Getting some insiration from the Caparo T1. The clearancing they did for the motor and the gills running down the side. Very smooth way of doing it and has function.
The covers were already painted black. But, I plan to paint the entire drivetrain black. Something sinister about all black motor and trans. For the entire "go kart" chassis, it is either black, gold, or polished alum/s.s. It should look as good with body on as with off.
Finally at the point I can get measurements to lazer cut a thick flange for the acrylic. Inlet sides to intake will be ovalled tube and hover right over the valve cover.
Can't tell you how nice is it to see a different motor rather than the rather boring (although admittedly effective) LS lumps in there.
That is a great looking motor and surprisingly compact..
If I was in the market, I would make it a mission NOT to fit an LS and although I quite understand the 101 sensible reasons for doing so, it would just make me more determined not to!
A Coyote with crossover ITB's would also look and sound great in an SLC (if it would fit that is).
That is a great looking motor and surprisingly compact..
If I was in the market, I would make it a mission NOT to fit an LS and although I quite understand the 101 sensible reasons for doing so, it would just make me more determined not to!
A Coyote with crossover ITB's would also look and sound great in an SLC (if it would fit that is).
Really looking forward to hear how this engine sounds in the SL-C.My coyote-based beast is coming along...
Allan is doing his thing now.
Scott, That is some very impressive fabricating. Look forward to seeing more.
Thanks. Ya, I have never built a 1uz before. Can't wait for the motor building part. Relatively cheap and tons of potential, especially f/i.
Thanks Al. I literally am a day or two away from taking a month off. Hoping to get all my mechanicals done and a good amount of body mods done during that time. The body is the fun, but messy as hell part!
Well today is the day. The last day of work I am scheduling for a month or so. Soooooo, now I will have umpteen hours a day to work on the car!! So now I will have time to drive around picking up parts and getting other stuff ordered. I have to get started on the body VERY soon before the cold and rain gets here and fb can still cure.
I may need to get drunk for the first cut or two, because they will be big ones! I think the back will happen first. I have been known to go overboard, so if it starts looking 'tarded, don't be shy. Haha
I may need to get drunk for the first cut or two, because they will be big ones! I think the back will happen first. I have been known to go overboard, so if it starts looking 'tarded, don't be shy. Haha
Thanks Dave.
Scott, you want to get one of these. The value should be the same on all of the TBs. It doesn't matter so much what the value is, just so they are all the same. The throttle linkage should be disconnected to each bank of TBs prior to sync and adjusted to keep the idle the same bank to bank when re-installed. I've got one I'll sell you for $25 plus shipping.
Air Flow Carburetor Synchrometer - Dune Buggy Parts, Sandrail Parts, VW Parts - MooreParts.com
Had some TWMs on my Kirkham.
Air Flow Carburetor Synchrometer - Dune Buggy Parts, Sandrail Parts, VW Parts - MooreParts.com
Had some TWMs on my Kirkham.
