Check out Jason’s build. He did a really nice job on his. http://www.gt40supercharged.com/gt40_interior.htmlI was on the fence with the door eyebrows as well... but I haven't seen people use something that ties into the roll bar, and searching the forums didn't yield any results. Could you point me to an example?
BTW, I have no problems at 3/16" gaps as well around the doors. I had the same problem with the doors dragging during opening until I opened them up slightly. 3/16" is my target everywhere but I had to take a break from the fiberglass work... lots to circle back to in the future.
You're flying through this body work!!!!! keep up the great work.
Thanks Randy.photo is of the car after paint (thanks Mitch)..
I’m pretty sure I sanded them out to 3/16” all the way around to make room for sealing primer and paint. Mitch had the car painted, so he’d know for sure - but 3/16” generally gives you a 1/8” gap after paint.Thanks Randy.
What kind of gaps did it have for the doors? Did you keep them at 1/8”?
Thanks Randy.Nice work Sean! I had to warp the rear edge of my doors also. Heat gun and Irwin clamps to the rescue..
I feel like I’m at a pretty big milestone. Just need to do a little more to the top of the passenger door and I can say the doors and clamshell are now fitted. I put 3/16” all the way around as suggested. It looks great. I used a steel flat bar I sanded each end on to make sure it was 3/16”. I sanded the gaps until the bar would slip in and slightly drag.
Opening the doors up got rid of the dragging issue I had on the spider, I also under cut the door there a bit more to make a sharper point. I plan to keep moving on the bodywork for now. I’m hoping I can get most of it done over the next few weeks.
Thanks BryanBody is looking really, really good!
Hi Rod.Hi Sean,
Everything is looking great! What are you using for attaching your windows? On mine, I've drilled & tapped for #6 screws. However, I had trouble with the fiberglass lip not being quite wide enough in a couple of areas. Lower part of the headlamp covers for one, but especially the top 3 screws on the left side door. I had to add some glass along that edge (red arrow in the attached pic) to make the lip wide enough to drill into.
Rod
Have you decided how you want to seal your windows yet? I've heard of several different methods. I can't decide if I want to paid the back side of the window around the border black first as well to hide imperfections in the material I use to seal the window.Hi Rod.
Thank you.
I used 8-32 on the rear window since I had a large flange to work with. I used 6-32 on the side windows and centered the screws to the smallest edge(the top of the doors where you indicated) since that flange was all over the place on width I figured centering it on the smallest flange was the way to go and just made the other screws the same spacing off the edge of the glass to make them all match.
I haven’t made it to the headlight covers yet, but I’m hoping to also use 6-32 screws there as well.
I haven’t even researched any of that yet. I was thinking about painting the backside of the glass to hide how uneven the flange is behind it, but not sure if that’s even necessary.Have you decided how you want to seal your windows yet? I've heard of several different methods. I can't decide if I want to paid the back side of the window around the border black first as well to hide imperfections in the material I use to seal the window.