and it's a Harbor Freight unit!! I usually put wheel chalks behind the car when I'm winching it up...just in case.I can see the neighbor across the street getting a free GT40 when the winch brake breaks
Hi you guys got some very nice GT cars, I just started a scratch car and was wondering were could I get the body parts? Thank youFinally starting a build thread on this forum...we've been working with Chris (Active Power Cars) for the last few months, and it's shipping this weekend!! Chris has been great to work with, can't wait to see all of his hard work in person.
Purpose: Building a GT40 was my dad's dream...I was able to convince him to let me join!! (helps that we're splitting the cost, and I'm free labor). This car will be registered for the street (and driven!), but the main focus will be track days, AutoX, and then drag racing & hopefully a standing mile or something faster.
Details of the Build
1964 Ford GT40, Mark I, 7.0L v8 (427ci)
Kit: Active Power Cars (www.activepowercars.com/)
Engine: 427 ci V8, LS3 @ 625HP by Blue Print Engines (https://blueprintengines.com/)
Transaxle: Mendeola S5R 5sp sequential (http://www.mendeolatransaxles.com/)
*give me your thoughts/feedback/questions; One of the coolest parts of the online car community is all the ideas and help! (On a previous Lotus 7 kit car I was building, I had posted some pictures of changing the timing belt on the miata 1.8L donor...someone online actually spotted that I was 1 tooth off on the Exhaust CAM. We're a unique bread...glad there's places online w/ ppl like me!)
More details can be found here:
Build blog: http://umimech.com/
Agreed. Early on when I was just putting around the neightborhood I had it loose, but once I got above ~20 MPH, I switched to a fabric tool bag, and use the passenger harness to secure it to the floor.Peter,
Congratulations on getting your car registered! That is a real Milestone.
"My passenger area is always filled with 2 sets of tools. I went to Harbor Freight and just bought a full 2nd set of cheap tools so that I could just leave these in the car all the time. I now have 1,000 miles on the car and I've yet to use it "
Anything in the cockpit should be tied down solidly. In a crash, all the loose stuff becomes ballistic and a box full of tools isn't something you want flying around.
I keep dreaming of taking a month off work, and making the entire drive in the GT40 all the way to San Diego. Hit all the major tracks, and scenic roads along the way.When you get that thing to Laguna give a shout, I'd come hang out. Never heard of it but that Packwood place is just a little more scenic than the former NASA airbase that serves around here.
100% agreed. I bought a ND Miata a few years ago down in LA, and drove it back along the coast w/ my wife all the way to Seattle. Would love to do many of those same roads to the music of a 427 rubmling behind me...although I doubt my wife would want to come on this trip, she likes a quiet smooth ride.Peter, the Pacific Coast Highway is a beautiful drive.
Great to hear, thanks! You'll like Chris (Owner of Active Power)...very much a fellow car enthusiast!Peter,
First let me start by saying your build is one of my favorites I've seen... primarily because I relate to its direction the most. I did not know of Active Power until reading your post and am very excited about the chassis / body. I emailed them about 30 minutes ago with some questions but I had some for you as well if you don't mind!
First let me introduce myself. My name is Nick and I am a recent grad from Clemson University's Mechanical Engineering program. I am doing automotive engineering in Columbus Ohio where I grew up. I have worked on old muscle cars restoring them and maintaining them since I was 13. (Now 24). It has been a dream of mine for years to build my own GT40 that can tear up the track. I have many coworkers that head to mid ohio on the weekends.
-Chris has a dummy LS block, so I just told him the transaxle and he did the engine & transaxle mounts. Key to remember is that everything is super tight clearances...so it took me some time to find the right accessories/mounting, as they needed to hang low (Alt, water pump)1. I read on Active Power's website that they support a Windsor and Coyote engine. I definitely want to run an LS as it is cheap, reliable, and simple. I am excited to see that you made an LS work on the chassis. Could you share some insight into how you made that happen? Where did you get an adapter plate? You chose a beautiful engine but I am probably picking out an ls from a local junkyard. How high can you comfortably rev up the LS3? Are the heads stock? I am willing the spend some extra money on the valvetrain if it means I get some extra revs. Hoping you could provide some insight here. Do you plan to isolate the drivetrain at some point to mitigate the harsh vibrations at 2000rpm you mentioned?
I'll have to go dig up my notes, and likely just measure it. I'd do it again, but would likely make a few small changes.2. Your pushrod suspension really caught my eye... would you be kind enough to share some details on it? Like the hardware you chose? (pushrod/shock)
The Mendeola transaxle includes a clutch style LSD. On a previous Porsche 911 I had an open diff, and at higher power levels it would spin the inside wheel...so I was certain I wanted an LSD on the GT403. Currently I am settled on using a Porsche 996 transaxle (G96/01). With your extra horsepower you rightfully so went for something better. However I am curious about whether or not you are running a LSD. Also wondering what axles you chose/would recommend.
Chris put in most of the cage (it's one of his options)...the longitudinal door bar integrates with the fuel tank structure, so it's essentially a standard dual side bar design (very strong against side impacts). It's very tight clearances inside, and Chris did a great job maximizing space. I added vertical pinned door bars, which help to triangulate the front hoop...4. I really like your roll cage. Could you share some more details on it? Was part of it an extra when buying from Active Powers and then you just welded in the door bar?
Currently I only have 1 fuel tank installed. I bought ATL fuel cells w/ integrated baffles into the back of the fuel tank, so it acts like a swirl pot to help prevent fuel starvation. I'm using a Bosch 044 fuel pump...old tech, but well know and rated for my power levels.5. People have crafted very different fuel systems on their builds... would you please give some more details on how you built yours? I read that you have one tank supplying the other and a single main feed. How has this worked so far? Did you also run a swirl pot? What is some of the hardware you used?
I agree (see my above comment about the accusump)...we were quickly hitting our budget limit, so the oil baffle and accusump was our compromise. The other factor is that I'm not sure if I'll ever run full slicks on it...I plan to drive it to most events, so it'll need street-able tires.6. I read that you used a baffled oil pan. Many of my coworkers strongly suggest a dry sump setup over baffled pans. They are saying an oil system is one thing not to cheap out on for a track day car (especially for an LS). Have you head any problems with starvation? A dry sump system is expensive so wondering if you could convince me that it ISN'T worth it.
Yes, got them from Speedway Engineering. Really nice quality. The arms come straight...then the fronts I cut/bent/welded to clear the front suspension. I liked the speedway set-up as I could order different thicknesses...currently I have 3 bars, and with the arms having multiple holes, there's lots of adjust-ability. (http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81&product_id=113)7. Are your sway arms custom or where did you get them?