Single nostril spare tire cover

[Ron R.]

Howdy all,

Having recently taken ownership of SPF GT 2265, I'm mulling over the myriad of things I might change. One of them is a switch to a single nostril spare tire cover. I was wondering if anyone has one they'd like to part with (maybe trade, maybe not).

Has anyone taken a close look at the competetor's products...what are the odds that they might be worked over to fit at a reasonabe cost.

I've also considered placing calls to Cushman and Safir to see what their's might run. I haven't spoken to a SPF dealer yet, and obviously that is in the cards.

For those in the know, any idea what the costs are from the different suppliers?

Thanks, Ron

 

[Jack Houpe]

Hey Ron, I would suggest a single nostril unless you plan on doing some cutting and fitting like I did. The dual nostrils do not allow all the air from the radiators to exit the front area and really heats up the tub and creates pressure. If your doing it for a spare tire, you will need to take out the AC unit for sure.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Also remember that SPF does not open the front brake ducts where the inner front clip splash panel meets the steel tub brake tube. That is so the owner has the option of opening the ducts or not. To open them, scribe the FRP with the shape of the inside of the steel tube and cut it out.

If you open the duct, it will provide a flood of ambient temperature air into the front of the tub area. If you have the tub/toeboard area sealed well (hint, hint, we have a seal kit) you will slightly pressurize the area making it tougher for the hot radiator air to infiltrate the toeboard area. Having the outlet panel sealed to the bottom of the front pan will also greatly help to keep hot air out.

I am of the opinion that the dual nostril outlet will work OK if sealed properly and the horsepower is not over the moon as heat is a direct result of horsepower generation. Big horseys mean big heat.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Also remember that SPF does not open the front brake ducts where the inner front clip splash panel meets the steel tub brake tube. That is so the owner has the option of opening the ducts or not. To open them, scribe the FRP with the shape of the inside of the steel tube and cut it out.

If you open the duct, it will provide a flood of ambient temperature air into the front of the tub area. If you have the tub/toeboard area sealed well (hint, hint, we have a seal kit) you will slightly pressurize the area making it tougher for the hot radiator air to infiltrate the toeboard area. Having the outlet panel sealed to the bottom of the front pan will also greatly help to keep hot air out.

I am of the opinion that the dual nostril outlet will work OK if sealed properly and the horsepower is not over the moon as heat is a direct result of horsepower generation. Big horseys mean big heat.

I sort of agree Rick but sort of not. I would not want the brake duct openings cut out unless I had the ducts to go to the brakes. As you know these cars rust with just the sight of water. Open ducts into the front tube means a lot of water forsed into the front tub area.

I do agree with your comment about bigger engines means big heat but still even with a 302 with a thermostat at 190 your dumping the same amount of heat on the front of that tub.

So its a toss up, cut holes decrease heat increase rust or fix it the right way and buy the single nostril or the original double nostril like on the real cars to get the heat out.

Just by redoing my nostrils I dropped the heat on the front tub from 104 down to the mid 80's. On a 80-90 degree day it makes a big difference on the AC performance.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I sort of agree Rick but sort of not. I would not want the brake duct openings cut out unless I had the ducts to go to the brakes. As you know these cars rust with just the sight of water. Open ducts into the front tube means a lot of water forsed into the front tub area.

I do agree with your comment about bigger engines means big heat but still even with a 302 with a thermostat at 190 your dumping the same amount of heat on the front of that tub.

So its a toss up, cut holes decrease heat increase rust or fix it the right way and buy the single nostril or the original double nostril like on the real cars to get the heat out.

Just by redoing my nostrils I dropped the heat on the front tub from 104 down to the mid 80's. On a 80-90 degree day it makes a big difference on the AC performance.

Jack,

Your point about the water is well taken, my point was disregarding other factors like the flood. However, you still get a lot of water to the tub front even without the ducts open. The front tires toss LOTS of water and grit up top by the fuel fillers unless you seal the inner shield to the tub (working on a rubber seal that will do just that)

 

[Ron R.]

Guys,

Thanks for the input. My reasons for considering a single nostril are two-fold. One, I like the look, and it seems more appropriate on a Gulf-liveried car. Second, I will be running a stroked windsor making a fair amount of HP, and I want to maximize cooling.

I do intend on adding brake ducts, as the car will seen some tracktime. I haven't worked out where I'll source all of that yet, but I've seen several suppliers.

I expect to do some fitting with the new nostril, but would like to start with a piece that is as close as possible to begin with. Hence, my question.

Rick,

I will be calling you for your upgrades, including the glass rear window and the new gasket kits.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Jim Craik]

Ron,

Congratulations,

I have your sister car P2264, I just love it. I see your in Rocklin, I'm in Saratoga, we should get to gether when you get her running.

Let me know if you have ant questions, as I have just gone through the prossess. I now have over 9,000 miles on mine!

 

[Ron R.]

Jim,

Thanks, I'd like to meet sometime, though it may be a while 'till I get this thing put together. I have a lot of other projects that are calling.

I sort of grew up in Sunnyvale, and my grandparents lived in Saratoga. I really love that part of the Bay Area, but my wife is from the Sacramento area, and had final say when we looked for a house.

Keep in touch. I will probably attend some of the Bay Area Cobra club runs too, as my parents live in Dublin, and I visit when I can.

Ron

 

Howdy all,

Having recently taken ownership of SPF GT 2265

Looks like we have 1-2-3 here....#2264...#2265....my car is #2266.

Brian

 

[Ron R.]

Brian,

I love your car. Perfect look.

Down the road, I will likely go the wide hips route. Wish I coulda gotten a RHD car, but they are few and far between here in the USA.

Ron

 

[Jim Craik]

Ron,

I grew up in Menlo Park and later went to Sacramento State so I know your area as well.

Did you get your 40 from Dennis in Redwood City, if so your car came in the same very, very slow shipping container as mine. I held my breath for four months!!

Yours is a real beauty, I just love the blue but my wife had veto power on the color.

Fell free to contact me if you have any questions. I know I had plenty!

What motor/trans are you going with and are you going to do the install yourself? I had Full Throttle in Reno do mine and I felt they did a very good job.

 

[Jim Craik]

NSXER,

You have 2266? Is it a MK1 and when did you get it?

We'll have to get these sisters together!

 

[Ron R.]

Jim,

Yes, my car came from Dennis at Dynamic in Redwood City.

My wife also isn't too sure about the Heritage pattern, but fortunately didn't have veto power.

In a perfect world, the car would be RHD with wide hips. I may well have the wide hips put on later...Cushman sells the flares and rocker extenders, and there is a pretty good body/paint man in the area that I trust. Since there were a few LHD cars (Mark IIIs), some converted to Mark 1 specs, I can feel good about being sort of historically correct with the LHD.

I haven't decided where to source my transaxle yet. I'm not in a big hurry, I have several other projects taking space in the garrage right now. I may well build the motor myself... not built a ford before (mostly old porsches), but I can follow directions and read well, and generally understand how things are put together and why. I will do the install myself. I did it on my Kirkham (with help from a friend) and don't see any reason not to do it with the GT. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions when the time comes, so I may give you a call if you don't mind. Fortunately, forums like this are a great resource, so I feel pretty good about overcoming any problems I may encounter.

Jim, what are the particulars of your car? Color, motor, etc. Are you happy with everything. Would you change anything? How do you use the car...driver, track etc?

Thanks, Ron

 

[Jim Craik]

Ron,

MY car is black/black with no stripes (I feel is is flashy enough without stripes), leather and two Gurney bubbles. As I am going to use it as a street car 99% I went with the original street car set up, sbf, ZF (RBT) and Holly 4brl. My motor is a Roush 342R, its a 302 block and puts out 450hp & 420tq.

I have 9,000+ miles on it and I am in love!!!

I am very happy with the 302 based motor, it is smaller, lighter, cooler and quieter than the other options and it does not block the rear vision at all. I can understand why people want 427's but my car is scary fast and I'm very happy with my choise!

If I had it to do again the only change I would make is only one Gurney bubble as the two bubbles make the roof a little crowded looking (batmobile).