So as I am researching an SL-C build, I wanted to look at the feasibility of adding ABS and wanted some input from more experienced builders, specifically SL-C builders. What this discussion is NOT is a philosophical one about whether ABS "should" be added to the SLC, that has already been discussed here before. Since my build would be a street build, I am interested in ABS for use on the street in a surprise "panic" stop, which I am sure all of us have encountered at least once or twice (or more) in our driving careers. So now on to my idea......
After researching ABS retrofits for the SL-C a bit, I noticed two common themes: 1) The system you use should be from a car with similar weight and weight distribution characteristics and, 2) You should use a complete system from a donor car, and not try to piece something together. So I took a look at the 2nd generation Toyota MR2 (1989-1999). The pros of this ABS donor are:
1. The MR2 is a mid engine car with a curb weight of around 2500+ pounds and similar weight distribution (which is comparable to a street build with all of the "bells and whistles")
2. The system is relatively simple. It does not interface nor is it dependent on other systems such as traction control or even the main engine ECU. The system basically consists of a pump, ECU, wheel speed sensors and reluctor rings.
Mechanically, the ABS pump unit has two separate brake lines going to the front, one for each wheel. It has one brake line that supplies both rear brakes. If you take a look at the attached wire diagram for this system, you will notice how relatively simple the system would be to incorporate electrically. The other thing I like about this system after looking at the repair manual for it is that diagnostic codes for the system can be read using the ABS light, and can be cleared using a sequence of pressing the brake pedal. This makes testing of the system during and after the retrofit possible without the need for an external reader.
Gen 2 MR2 ABS Wire Diagram
The biggest challenge that I see is properly attaching the wheel speed sensors and the reluctor rings to each of the hubs such that a clean wheel speed signal can be produced and the rings and sensors will stay put. After that it is a matter of mounting the two units, plumbing the hard brake lines, and wiring everything up.
Now as for the cost, the pump/actuator can be had for $60-$100; ECU for $50-80, the reluctor rings for $30 each, and the wheel speed sensors for $50-$150. The reluctor rings could only be found new. Wheel speed sensors were harder to find used, but doable. The ECU and actuator/pump were relatively easy to find used. Even when taking into account the extras such as fittings, connectors, wiring, etc, this modification is not that expensive, especially when compared to the only aftermarket/race ABS system at over $8k.
As a side note, another potential donor is a 3rd gen MR2 Spyder (2000-2007). It is also a mid-engine car but has a curb weight of 2100+ pounds. The parts would be a bit more expensive and the front wheel speed sensors are a different design than the gen 2 MR2 (the rear sensors are the same). One advantage of this system is that the pump and ECU are a combined unit, vice separate. However, I could not find a shop manual with wiring schematic for that model so I could not verify how adaptable it might be compared to the gen 2.
So what do you think?
After researching ABS retrofits for the SL-C a bit, I noticed two common themes: 1) The system you use should be from a car with similar weight and weight distribution characteristics and, 2) You should use a complete system from a donor car, and not try to piece something together. So I took a look at the 2nd generation Toyota MR2 (1989-1999). The pros of this ABS donor are:
1. The MR2 is a mid engine car with a curb weight of around 2500+ pounds and similar weight distribution (which is comparable to a street build with all of the "bells and whistles")
2. The system is relatively simple. It does not interface nor is it dependent on other systems such as traction control or even the main engine ECU. The system basically consists of a pump, ECU, wheel speed sensors and reluctor rings.
Mechanically, the ABS pump unit has two separate brake lines going to the front, one for each wheel. It has one brake line that supplies both rear brakes. If you take a look at the attached wire diagram for this system, you will notice how relatively simple the system would be to incorporate electrically. The other thing I like about this system after looking at the repair manual for it is that diagnostic codes for the system can be read using the ABS light, and can be cleared using a sequence of pressing the brake pedal. This makes testing of the system during and after the retrofit possible without the need for an external reader.
Gen 2 MR2 ABS Wire Diagram
The biggest challenge that I see is properly attaching the wheel speed sensors and the reluctor rings to each of the hubs such that a clean wheel speed signal can be produced and the rings and sensors will stay put. After that it is a matter of mounting the two units, plumbing the hard brake lines, and wiring everything up.
Now as for the cost, the pump/actuator can be had for $60-$100; ECU for $50-80, the reluctor rings for $30 each, and the wheel speed sensors for $50-$150. The reluctor rings could only be found new. Wheel speed sensors were harder to find used, but doable. The ECU and actuator/pump were relatively easy to find used. Even when taking into account the extras such as fittings, connectors, wiring, etc, this modification is not that expensive, especially when compared to the only aftermarket/race ABS system at over $8k.
As a side note, another potential donor is a 3rd gen MR2 Spyder (2000-2007). It is also a mid-engine car but has a curb weight of 2100+ pounds. The parts would be a bit more expensive and the front wheel speed sensors are a different design than the gen 2 MR2 (the rear sensors are the same). One advantage of this system is that the pump and ECU are a combined unit, vice separate. However, I could not find a shop manual with wiring schematic for that model so I could not verify how adaptable it might be compared to the gen 2.
So what do you think?