SLC 24 Howard Jones

That number does sound low, but I just checked another chart and it was calling for 22# oiled, and 44# dry for 3/8 grade 8. I usually just use the feel "goodandtightski" method (unless internal engine components). You can feel once you start to get bolt stretch usually on those smaller bolts.

As mentioned before, DSS says to torque the axle bolts to 57 ft lbs- at least the ones I have for the Ricardo, but all the axles use the same 930 joint, so I assume it is applicable for all of our cars. I assume that is a dry number.

Some cars have had these come loose. I'm thinking I might replace mine with bolts with drilled heads so I can safety wire them.

For those that don't safety wire theirs, I like the idea or marking the heads and adjacent material with paint, along with regular visual checks.
 
Yes, Will 57 is the #. We have not had any loosening of the bolts during the 25 hr races with just locktite and the correct hardware for the CV joints.

Porsche has a washer ish link bar that goes between two bolts. That and locktite and no issues with loosening.
 
Don
"Porsche has a washer ish link bar that goes between two bolts."

I think I know what you mean by this, have a part number?
 
I bought a pack of these concave washers, but haven't put them on it. Any thoughts..

Metric Belleville Disc Spring, High-Carbon Steel, 10.2MM ID, 20MM OD, .8MM Thickness, packs of 12

Link: McMaster-Carr
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
Some applications use M10 X 1.5, Grade 12.9, Torqued to 62 dry or 47 oiled, or lubed with ARP Assembly lube. Adequate length to engage all threads.
Just make sure you are using High Collar lock washers....regular ones don't work.
I consider them like header bolts....expect them to come loose, at east through the first few heat/stress cycles.
Safety wire is awesome....stock up on cobalt drill bits....Anyone have a source to purchase cross-drilled metric allen cap screws?

Just my opinion.
 

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torque to 30ft-lbs, then 60ft-lbs in a star pattern, double check after a few miles and you should be good - i've never had axle bolts loosen.
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
I have used these on header bolts before. Other than the worry about dropping the little pieces down into never-never land, they seem to work great when installed. My concern about this application, when I first saw it, was that the centrifugal force when spinning at high speeds might dislodge the clips. Apparently not.
Thanks for the link!
David
 
There should be no need for bendable tabs. The theory is that a single washer can turn with bolt and loosen. A linked washer style cannot twist with bolt.

Happy half shafting.......................
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Don, So in summation, use the links, clean everything with brake clean, apply blue medium thread locker and torque to 57 ft/lbs.

Question, does the thread locker make this a oiled torque spec? If so still 57ft/lbs? Thanks for all you help buddy. All the help we all try to give each other on this forum is priceless. Thank all you. I couldn't do it without you all.
 
57 with thread lock. the thread lock is only on threads. A true oil torque would be oil under head of bolt and threads. Then clean everything again and apply a very thin layer of your favorite colored silicon sealant on the seam. This will prevent the grease weep sling from CV joints when they get hot.
 
There's some nice machinery leaving that parking lot. After watching and listening to exhaust notes for length of the video on these different vehicles it comes to mind that men (we) are from mars and women from Venus. If my wife walked in she'd think it more normal if I had nekkid women on the screen.
 
Don, So in summation, use the links, clean everything with brake clean, apply blue medium thread locker and torque to 57 ft/lbs.

Question, does the thread locker make this a oiled torque spec? If so still 57ft/lbs? Thanks for all you help buddy. All the help we all try to give each other on this forum is priceless. Thank all you. I couldn't do it without you all.

Liquid type 'Threadlocker' products act as a lubricant during the torque/tightening phase and cure to a harder sealant/locking state once tight and in the absence of air, so if you have some under the head of the bolt as well it should perform the same function, so use the oiled torque specs. I just checked this out on the Loctite website in OZ. I would be concerned about those 2 bolt locking tab washers, if they are soft enough to allow the tabs to be bent up then its likely they would deform and allow the bolt tension to relax in use and essentially provide a second point for lube to escape from when that happens.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I thought I would update the progress I've made getting Francine registered here in California. I have applied for and received my SB100 specially constructed vehicle sequence number and paid my taxes at the DMV.

Then on to the Calif Highway Patrol for my VIN verification and assignment. ALL of the CHP office was out in the parking lot before I was done including the admin lady. The CHP inspector asks "Uh....are you going to drive THAT on the street....?"............... "Sure I am, as soon as you put that little blue VIN plate on my car, officer............" We really had a good time talking hotrods and stuff. Good people, really, no problem. (more on that latter......)

Now to the BAR referee. "What is that?"

Well sir, it's a specially constructed vehicle with a body style substantially unlike any previously manufactured car. I'm picking body style and my understanding of the law is, that makes it a 1960 default smog requirement standard.

"What engine is that?"

It doesn't matter because I picked body style.........right?

"Uhhhhh........What engine is that?

It's a Chevy 350.

"It needs a PCV valve, you don't pass"

Sir in 1960 there were no smog laws in the United States, as a matter of fact the first smog law was enacted in 1963 and went into effect Jan 1st 1964. SOOOOoooooooooo. The default 1960 year means I don't need anything at all. California was first by the way.

"We use 1965 as the default year"

The law says 1960 so could you show me a memo or something that gives you the authority to alter California law.

" Talk to my boss, Here's the number"

So as he was writing it down I noticed that the computer in front of him was on and the web page he had up was the DMV website AND THE EXACT PAGE that stated that the default year was 1960. Then a quick finger point, and I said......... SEE right HERE.........sir.

"Call my boss"

Load the car back on the trailer, call the boss the next day and he says "I think the California air resources board changed that and anyway we use 1965 for all default years now".

CARB didn't change the SB100 law but I think it did issue a ruling a long time ago that all vehicles sold in Calif. had to have a PCV Valve. Ya I know I didn't buy a car or sell one for that matter. It's a kit for gods sake and that's what SB100 was for but........Anyway easy fix for something that didn't need fixing and now it's gone back and is signed off. You will need a PCV valve on a carb car in California unless you want to fight them on this one.

Back to DMV.......remember them? Handed in the paper pile and the same guy as the first time takes it back to the back office for a few minutes and comes back and wanted to known why the CHP changed the VIN number. "well because the ID number on the MSO document isn't a VIN number. It's a internal ID number for the kit but it not a VIN number for a manufactured car.

"Oh......can you get then to write me a letter that's says that and that they didn't issue a VIN plate for the car. Sir..... it's not a car when they sell the kit to a customer. It's a kit. But OK I'll call them.

Then a miracle happens...............He says, oh never mind, I'll call them next week after the holidays and figure this out for you....................................BUT YOU NEED A BRAKE AND LIGHT CHECK ALSO.

"1st time I heard that, but I'll do it".

"Ya, I'm sorry I forgot to tell you that but I'll get the VIN thing figured out"

So I called the DMV guy back this morning and he said he had talked to RCR and it's all good..........................................................WOW.

Now on to putting a parking brake on a track only car so I can get a brake and light signoff. I should be done after that. Please post pictures of your e brake systems and other info if you have any.
 
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California. Ug..... Well, at least you have some nice scenery there.

Sounds like you are getting close though.
 
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