SPF GT- Water/air sealing, the "DIY" thread

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Rick, they look familiar, is a seal from a vacuum cleaner? I think they will work better than the sponge foam from the looks.
 
More sealing info,

The later chassis have a seal at the steering rack/shaft entry into the tub as seen in the attached pictures. This seal is moulded to fit the rack/tub and leaves onmly a small slot that is easy to seal with a little dum-dum.

Also there is an additional moulded seal for the bottom of the doors at the lower "A" pillar that makes a big difference. I don't what the chassis number break on these installs is but the parts should be available from your dealer. All the chassis I have have these updates and they are in the 2270 number range.
 

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Jack,

You use one seal. The outlet from the HVAC box to the tub is sealed by the SPF provided foam. This seal does the INTAKE from the tub to the HVAC box as there is no factory seal there. These are $28.95 delivered in the US.

Installation instructions and pictures follow.


Time Machines
Motorsports LLC



Part # GT40P/18A569
Scuttle Plenum to HVAC Box Seal

Installation instructions
With front clip (body) removed:

1. Remove “Dry Sump” alloy cover
2. Remove three Phillips head screws retaining HVAC box (plastic AC/Heater box)
3. Pull HVAC box forward and remove two Phillips head screws retaining duct hose to HVAC box
4. Pull duct hose off HVAC box “nipple”
5. Slide seal over “nipple” with flat side to HVAC box
6. Re-install duct with screws
7. Slide HVAC back into place taking care to insure that tapered side of seal is centered over round hole in plenum
8. Re-install HVAC box retaining screws




That looks great Rick, How much for the super duper seals for the AC unit? We will need 3 of them right?
 

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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Rick I think that foam SPF provided is one of the area that it leaks. Water comes in between the AC (oil Tank look-a-like) and the tub and soaks through that foam. What do you think?
 
Rick I think that foam SPF provided is one of the area that it leaks. Water comes in between the AC (oil Tank look-a-like) and the tub and soaks through that foam. What do you think?
Jack,

I ran water on that and didn't get any leak through the foam but if you guys want a moulded seal, I'll look at doing one. Mind you, my testing has been in the shop with air and water not on the road and as w all know, if you "idiot proof" something, you will find there are better "idiots" in the field!!!!
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Rick,

I agree with Jack re need for a moulded seal between the AC evaporator and the tub. Please advise price and availability.

Should have report re Scuttle seal this weekend

SteveP2125

PS:

Better gaskets for fuel tank access plates (seals and allows reuse)

SS mesh covered in poly window screen surrounded by windshield washer hose and siliconed into NACA duct tub inlet to prevent leaves, ect from entering the evaporator or fan (since pic I have added a small piece of 1/2 moon rubber sheet to bottom 1/3 in conjunction with drain holes in bottom of NACA ducting to stop water intrusion into the evaporator/fans ect).
 

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Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
CORRECTION TO ABOVE POST.

Second pic above has nothing to do with water proofing (clicked wrong file). Is a pic before storage boxes and AVONs installed
 
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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Mike Trusty pointed out all these foam seals when I got my car, he took care of his while under construction, I of course was to excited and had to get it on the road. My EOS Cannon Rebel and laptop survived the flood but will not put anything in the floor till I fix some of these issues. Rick I think you are the right tract my friend.
 
OK,

I will look into a moulded seal to replace the foam. The idea of better, die cut seals for the sponson/fuel tank closure plates and the plates on top of the scuttle could also be useful.

The problem is the cost of tooling/manufacture versus the size of the market (170 some SPF to date) so so figuring will need to be done. Everybody will buy them if they are only a couple dollars bt if a complete seal kit cost $2-300 to really seal the chassis well, will there be a market?

Steve C. please post your results with the tub/HVAC seal here.
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
I think so, whats the rust worth 10 years from now? As far as the die cut seals thats not an issue, I cut gaskets out with my cnc laser all the time, all we need to figure out is the correct pliable material that will seal between the panels. It will have to be reusable.
 

Grady

Supporter
I think so, whats the rust worth 10 years from now? As far as the die cut seals thats not an issue, I cut gaskets out with my cnc laser all the time, all we need to figure out is the correct pliable material that will seal between the panels. It will have to be reusable.

1/8" EPDM 50 or 60 Durometer material

The individual hole punches is what runs the cost of a steel rule die cost up. The die may cost ~$150-$200 and you'll need a drawing/template to work off with when making the die.

FYI
Grady Wilson
 
Don't forget we need seals under the battery and fuel system covers. I think they are the same so only one piece tooling. I don't deal with these materials very often, I was looking for black 1/8" closed cell foam if there is something better please share. It has to be compliant enough to mold around the pop threads or whatever those things are called.
 
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