Steve's RCR GT40 Build
- Thread starter steveklafeta
- Start date
I finally made some real progress. With the throw out bearing cut, I was able to tackle the engine. I managed to pound in the pilot bearing without deforming it like before. The throw out bearing fit nicely.
The clutch was assembled for the second time. And no joy getting the transaxle to go in. I removed everything to test the fit of the transaxle shaft into the pilot. It went in with ease. So, I put the clutch back on for the third time. I cut the bolt heads off some longer screws and used them to guide the trans to the engine. This time it finally went.
Today, I was able to fit the engine and set the plates into the chassis. Yeah!!
The clutch was assembled for the second time. And no joy getting the transaxle to go in. I removed everything to test the fit of the transaxle shaft into the pilot. It went in with ease. So, I put the clutch back on for the third time. I cut the bolt heads off some longer screws and used them to guide the trans to the engine. This time it finally went.
Today, I was able to fit the engine and set the plates into the chassis. Yeah!!
The RCR manual shows these white nylon plugs into the cross member and I think 3/8 bolts. I temporarily held the trans up with 1/2 inch bolts that just fit. Any thoughts on which method is better? If I stick with the 1/2 inch bolts, I was going to get grade 8 or better that aren’t fully threaded. I also need to cut some metal bushings. Here are some pics that show what I’m talking about.
Making great progress Steve!!!
I feel like I’m making progress but haven’t posted much because nothing is completed. Just small baby steps. I had to take the engine out again. I couldn’t get the stupid crankshaft pulley on with engine in place. So that’s 3 times. I’m trying to keep it under 50 by the time this is finished.
I also fit the starter.
I used my poor man’s stand up lathe again.
Metal spacers are on the way.
I also fit the starter.
I used my poor man’s stand up lathe again.
Metal spacers are on the way.
I put the spave cylinder on and connected it to the arm. The bleeder screw is 3/8 but has a 45 degree end. I am trying to figure out what the other hole is. Some online say it’s 3/8 NPT fine thread. But I can easily put the bleeder screw into that hole. The end of the clutch line looks like a -4AN. How have some of you connected these? I was given premade hose with I think -4AN female ends. But it’s 1.5 ft long Does anyone hook these up with hardline? Thanks for the opinions in advance.
Everything is looking top notch Steve! I especially like all the use your getting out of that drill press. Keep the photos coming.
Here is my quarterly update. It’s not because I haven’t been putting in the time. My build has actually become obsessive. I’ll start where I left off.
I used the alternator and bracket from CVF. It needed tons of modification.
The teeth of the fan needed to be ground down and the helm joints and rod shortened.
The air conditioning compressor bracket from RCR would not work at all for me.
I used the alternator and bracket from CVF. It needed tons of modification.
The teeth of the fan needed to be ground down and the helm joints and rod shortened.
The air conditioning compressor bracket from RCR would not work at all for me.
More AC, copiied from Kurbmeister again
I went with stainless steel hardlines in the front and tunnel for the look and to save space in the tunnel. They were silver soldered. The lines in the cabin and engine bay are crimped tube.
Wiring has been a fear of mine since the start of this. Face your fear, it’s worse than you think.
Then untangle it.
Then a small victory.
I went with stainless steel hardlines in the front and tunnel for the look and to save space in the tunnel. They were silver soldered. The lines in the cabin and engine bay are crimped tube.
Wiring has been a fear of mine since the start of this. Face your fear, it’s worse than you think.
Then untangle it.
Then a small victory.
I remember when you told me your wife was only going to give you a small portion of the garage for the build. Well it looks like that has changed.
I went down the rabbit hole with doubling the firewall sound and heat protection sandwich as detailed in Tom’s trackracer. It took him, a master, 14 hours. I have what seems like a lifetime into this and it’s not done.
First I cut a mirror image out in sheet aluminum. Then glued some aluminum stock using JB Weld. Primed and coated with lizard skin sound and heat. Then a layer of dynomat extreme and dynaliner.
Then I welded the the mirror piece
boy, inside corners are tough.
First I cut a mirror image out in sheet aluminum. Then glued some aluminum stock using JB Weld. Primed and coated with lizard skin sound and heat. Then a layer of dynomat extreme and dynaliner.
Then I welded the the mirror piece
boy, inside corners are tough.
