In all fairness, the real issue why I have no trouble with the torque of the rotary is that my vehicle only weighs 1200 pounds. Like Tim, that's in my sand car. My race vehicles are closer to 2000 lbs and about 130 HP in IT trim (SCCA rules) and 200 in GT trim. They do tend to do better against the piston cars on wide open tracks where rpms can be kept up.
As far as the sand car goes, I use first gear for sand drag starts and tight duning, but otherwise I just leave it in second and push the go pedal when needed. Because of the weight, I can pretty much break the tires lose at will. The dune buggy really spoils me.
As far as cost goes, the piston engines will cost less up front due to all the available after market pieces. If I wanted to build a cheap 500 HP that was light, I would probably opt for the Subaru. 350 without many mods, and a little turn up of the boost and 500 is pretty easily attainable. V 8 would probably be my next choice if weight wasn't a factor and cost was. Then the rotary. A 20B in core condition is something like $2000 now, and to get the proper turbos, injection and all running gear it's probably gonna run another $10k, so a minimum of $12k for a mostly stock 20B. My 12A, if I didn't have numerous parts laying around, would have cost in the neighbor hood of $15k. It has a lot of ceramic in it and quite a few of the "tricks".
I DO know Roland, but haven't seen him in years as our local track has, for the most part, closed.
I would think a 20B could be easily made to produce 500HP and last 100,000 miles. The Subaru, probably 30-40k miles. The rotary is definitely more expensive, but probably not if you're gonna put a lot of miles on it. In truthfulness, the V8 is probably the sweet spot for most people as far as price, HP, and longevity.
Nothing sounds like a rotary at full tilt though.
