torque on center lock wheels?

[PETER LEUTHARDT]

HELLO FROM SWITZERLAND.I HAVE A RCR917 WITH CENTER LOCK WHEELS AND I AM WONDERING ABOUT THE TORQUE NESESARY TO LOCK THE WHEELS PROPERLY(CONE OUTSIDE DIAMETER IS 80mm).ALSO,I AM WONDERING IF IT IS REASONABLE TO GREASE THREAT AND WHEELSURFACE WITH A REGULAR GREASE.ANY SUGESTIONS?:huh:

 

[Alex]

I too wonder about the torque spec. Is 350ft-lbs the right spec? I see centerlocks on porsche 911s have ranged from 300 to 450ft-lbs in their installation manual.

Should the surface of the nut have anti-seize on it? I would hate to think what would happen if our nuts seized onto the rim :stunned:

 

[Tim Kay]

Alex, I'm not sure what the torque spec is but using the three spoke spinner and a hammer tool I hit the spinner until you hear a "dead tone" then safety wire. I'd be surprised if that's even close to 250 ft lbs but I really don't know.

And yes, use anti-seize on the threads each time you r&r. I've never had one loosen but I have had them over tight in which case they're a bugger to remove, with or without anti-seize.

 

[Alex]

I have no idea if spinners need more/less torque than octagonal nuts. I hadn't even thought about anti-size on the threads (I would have assumed that would be a no-no, especially when only 1 nut holds the entire rim on), I was just talking about anti-size on the face of the rim where the nut sits.

250 seems awefuly low - why would 911s and carrera GTs have a spec of 450ft-lbs then?

 

[Tim Kay]

Alex, I anti-seize the threads and face. Since you're using the nut style center lock with socket and wrench I see why you're asking the torque rating. You might check with the manufacturer of the center lock hub you're using.

My Porsche center locks are 340 ft lb steel nuts and fine thread (if that makes any difference) and I know I don't put the same amount of force on the GT40 center locks that I do on the Porsche (btw, I grease the Porsche threads). That's why I commented on the lower torque rate for the spinner, I could be wrong. As I said, I bang them on until the tone goes dead and that's worked for the past 10 years, no incidents.

 

[Randy V]

Here - read and enjoy!

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...care-feeding-knock-off-wheels.html#post206831

 

[Alex]

Here - read and enjoy!

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...care-feeding-knock-off-wheels.html#post206831

Seems like everybody has their own idea about what's safe and what will kill you :drunk:

Alex, I anti-seize the threads and face. Since you're using the nut style center lock with socket and wrench I see why you're asking the torque rating. You might check with the manufacturer of the center lock hub you're using.

My Porsche center locks are 340 ft lb steel nuts and fine thread (if that makes any difference) and I know I don't put the same amount of force on the GT40 center locks that I do on the Porsche (btw, I grease the Porsche threads). That's why I commented on the lower torque rate for the spinner, I could be wrong. As I said, I bang them on until the tone goes dead and that's worked for the past 10 years, no incidents.

Porsche though did a tsb and said increase the torque to 450ft-lbs, lol

I wouldn't have much issue with 350ft-lbs, but then I wonder about long-term damage to the rim - can it support that much torque clamping the nut to it? Do you anti-seize the undreside of the nut. One the one hand if you don't it could seize on forever; on the other hand if you do it could loosen while driving (I read something that said no lubricant or anything underneath the face of the nut otherwise it could interfere with its grip).

I dunno...... :shrug:

 

[Tim Kay]

Alex, sorry not to many are chiming in here but FWIW the spinners are a maintenance item, I visually check the safety wire practically every time I'm around the car. I'm not concerned about them because I've never had issues with the procedures I use, it's just a habit (kinda like checking the oil).

My very first experience with spinners was when I tried to remove them for the first time after buying the car. The previous owner did not use anti-seize and they were over tight. The face mating the wheel to the spinner was galled up pretty bad by the time I wrestled them off. In my case anyway, it is necessary to use anti-seize.

Tim

 

[Cliff Beer]

I did a little research into this when I first got my CAV because the tri-spinners were torque'd on really tight - over 600ft/lbs according to an industrial torque wrench I have. I had to buy a truck (1") impact wrench with 120psi on a half inch line to remove the spinners the first time.....a four foot bar supported on a wooden block of appropriate height wouldn't do it.

I settled upon 350ft/lbs as a target torque. I used a lead hammer and got pretty good at getting the right setting by sound. I like anti-seize and used it on the threads and the mating surface. Aluminum and stainless will both gall without it.

I've only had one wheel come off so far in life....while doing about 80mph in an old MGB when I was 17. That was exciting.

 

[Wally]

Here's a nice You Tube Video on K.O. Wheel Care. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8kCWG3d1Cc]Superformance Cobra, Daytona Coupe and GT40 Wheel Care - YouTube[/ame]

 

[PETER LEUTHARDT]

SO FOR MY PART I THINK I WILL USE 350FT.LBS OF TORQUE.I WILL GREASE NUT AND TREAT AND..I THINK IT IS ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO LIFT THE CAR ABOVE GROUND DURING TIGHTENING TO STOP THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR UNCENTERING THE WHEEL.
OK,SHOULD A WHEEL COME OF ANYWAY,MABYE.... I OPEN UP A NEW DISCUSION:furious:

 

[Alex]

SO FOR MY PART I THINK I WILL USE 350FT.LBS OF TORQUE.I WILL GREASE NUT AND TREAT AND..I THINK IT IS ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO LIFT THE CAR ABOVE GROUND DURING TIGHTENING TO STOP THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR UNCENTERING THE WHEEL.
OK,SHOULD A WHEEL COME OF ANYWAY,MABYE.... I OPEN UP A NEW DISCUSION:furious:

It looks like Fran is now making available centerlock rims for the sl-c (which look very nice) so I'm hopeful he will provide a brief writeup on their install that we can borrow for our cars as well.

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/rcr-forum-rcr40-slc-p4-mkiv/42449-new-centerlock-wheel-option.html

According to the Superformance knockoff video you do NOT want to do final tightening of the rim in the air because you can damage the bearings. You want to install the rim with the tire in the air, tighten snug to make sure it's centered, then put the car on the ground and do final tightening.

 

[Alex]

bumpity bump bump

Torque specs and yes/no to anti-size would be helpful to append to my build book