Wheel Creek

Just got back from a couple hundred drive and have a creaking noise coming from the rear left hub; I can make it occur by pushing the car back and forth; seems to be near the axle or in the hub.

Any ideas before I jack up the car and start to pull stuff apart? Wheel bearing?

On an unrelated note, was with a friend in his Factory 5 cobra today, full throttle shifting to third sheered the distributor gear right off. Fortunately the tow truck driver got us back home; get to pull that out now.

Kevin
 
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Alan Watkins

Lifetime Supporter
Re: Wheel Creak

Should have searched first.. looks like it might be the E-Brake
Some of the cars need their real wheel bearings tightened so that's a potential source of a creak.

(after a few minute's thought) You just got the car back from Olthoff, so the bearing issue is unlikely.
 
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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Thanks Alan that is the THREAD, I have an Ipad that I haven't mastered yet and at the time I was posting was on it. I strongly recommend all SPF owners to check these little items as most of us have found them to be an issue.
 
Thanks, that is the thread I found when I said I should have searched first.

I will pull it apart to see what I find. Regarding the bearing, I know they adjusted it when it was at Olthoff's shop but I have also seen where they may need to be tightened a few times. I was hitting the car pretty hard this weekend, could have loosened up.

Kevin
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Thanks, that is the thread I found when I said I should have searched first.

I will pull it apart to see what I find. Regarding the bearing, I know they adjusted it when it was at Olthoff's shop but I have also seen where they may need to be tightened a few times. I was hitting the car pretty hard this weekend, could have loosened up.

Kevin
It shouldn't have loosened at all, even with some real hard driving (heat expansion) would be a very small amount. I'm not an engineer but think if adjusted and lubricated correctly they shouldn't change within thousands of miles. Maybe something else is going on?
 
It shouldn't have loosened at all, even with some real hard driving (heat expansion) would be a very small amount. I'm not an engineer but think if adjusted and lubricated correctly they shouldn't change within thousands of miles. Maybe something else is going on?
Good point... no idea... will tear into it this week and post what I found
 
Kevin,
I hope you found that it was just the E brake. I, however, had a noise in my left rear, which turned out to be a worn wheel bearing, which, I had to replace.
Tom
 
I finally had time to look at it tonight and while I am not sure it is the problem, I did find one issue. The brake rotor has a bit of play in it. I am uploaded the short video of it showing that if I pull the top of the rotor it makes the most noise. Any thoughts on the issue and how to tighten this up?

I checked all bolts on the rotor, they are fine, two of the pin drive bolts spin a bit but I cannot seem to figure out how to get the outside plate off.


Thanks for the help
 

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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Kevin I don't think our SPF cars have floating rotors. The brembos on my ferrari do have, its for heat expansion and contraction. Its not the wheel bearing but the rotor that is doing that?
 
I think it might be the wheel bearing since the other side doesn't float; it is certainly a problem.

Looks like I need to get a stub axle remover this week to get into the bearing.
 
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Can you grab the centerlock hub extension & feel play in it when you lift it up/down, if so its the bearings, if not its the rotor hat loose on the pin drive studs which IIRC & since you say a couple are loose the nuts that tighten from the rear face [ which you probably cannot see for the hat/rotor ] must not be tight.
 

Alan Watkins

Lifetime Supporter
I think it might be the wheel bearing since the other side doesn't float; it is certainly a problem.

Looks like I need to get a stub axle remover this week to get into the bearing.
Dennis O has a tool for dealing with this that (I believe) he will either loan or sell you.
 
He sells the puller/installer. Not cheap but a good product. If I was you I'd make friends with one of the guys on here and rent the puller from one of them. While your in there you might want to do the E-brake modification. It's worth the little extra time.
 
its the rotor hat loose on the pin drive studs which IIRC & since you say a couple are loose the nuts that tighten from the rear face [ which you probably cannot see for the hat/rotor ] must not be tight.
Correct

I am a bit embarrassed to even post this but what the heck. I am still getting used to working on the car and similar to a new girlfriend, you don't always know if touching them in the same spots will get the same reaction... after sometime you realize that even though she looks like super model, she is still built from the same parts.

So the part that stumped me, after spending an hour building a quick jack lifting bar out of a 4x4, was the spacer; opps

Once I figured out that the spacer was between the wheel and the rotor, I found the two bolts holding the rotor to the hub were loose. I spun those off, took off the caliper and rotor to tighten up the pins. Put it all back together and the noise at a low speed is gone.. amazing that when all the parts are tight the car sounds better.

I did take a look at the e-brake hardware while in there, looks like I might need to do the fix as detailed in the thread. Will keep an eye on it.

Thanks for all the help; like I said, bit embarrassed that I could not figure out the spacer simply comes off and that two bolts would fix everything.

Kevin
 

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Alan Watkins

Lifetime Supporter
....Once I figured out that the spacer was between the wheel and the rotor
How thick is the spacer? (I don't have them, but it's not unusual for me to discover missing or extra parts in P2160....:huh:) Also, do you have them on front wheels as well?
 
While the countersunk screws might have been loose as well, it was the loose drive pins that were actually causing the problem, I would also suggest that you measure the ID of the wheels in use where they sit on the register @ 'A', if they are not a snug fit here then further problems of this nature are likely as it then makes the drive pins load bearing as well.

edit..In my earlier post I had assumed that the drive pins also clamped the rotor hat onto the flange, this is obviously not the case & the hat simply slides over the drive pins much like most situations, if the retainer/countersunk screws are/were not fully tightened then they might have been responsible for this initial problem, also with the wheels off & those screws loose any road grid/h/brake residue can become entrapped between faces which will cause a 'false' tightness when the wheels are refitted, cleanliness at all times reqd...
 
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