It is a GTD... Spaceframe car. I seem to recall folks needed to sort out the suspensions on them. There is a ton of information about GTDs on this forum, a lot of folks have built some beautiful cars on that platform.
Kevin
Who makes the best GT40?
- Thread starter Bill Adams
- Start date
It is a GTD... Spaceframe car. I seem to recall folks needed to sort out the suspensions on them. There is a ton of information about GTDs on this forum, a lot of folks have built some beautiful cars on that platform.
Kevin
Bill, Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go? You have three or four options. Buy one of the newer (2003-2006) Ford GTs, buy a kit already built and ready to go, buy an un-finished kit the owner got tired of, or buy a new kit from a current company making kits. If you want a Ford GT your options are Mark I, Mark II, Mark III, Mark IV, and the newer Ford GT. Which one do you favor?
If you are going to buy a newer Ford GT you will have a car that is street legal and something you can drive with out much worry about your safety. The benefit of buying a already running car, new Ford GT or a running kit car is that it is already running and you can drive it now. A new or unfinished kit will take time to finish and it will be a while before you have the pleasure to drive it. What is your time worth? Do you want to spend your time building a kit or driving your car? Where does your pleasure lie?
If you are going to buy either an existing built car or an un-finished kit you need to watch out because you won't fit inside some of the older made kits. Also if you are buying an existing car or un-finished kit you are going to look at in person before buying it aren't you and try to sit in it, correct. You are not going to buy something sight unseen are you? Not all owner built kits are built equal either. If you are buying used you'd want to look at it first, correct? You can do all the on-line research you want, but sooner or later you'll have to go out an look at actual cars and kits.
Last is buying a new kit. You should also get out and see examples of existing kits and cars or also pay a visit to the factory that makes them. You live in Michigan. RCR is in Michigan. What are you waiting for? Start off at RCR and see what they are doing over there and what they offer. The longest journey begins with the first step. Fran of RCR has invited you over you should take him up on the offer.
Jim
If you are going to buy a newer Ford GT you will have a car that is street legal and something you can drive with out much worry about your safety. The benefit of buying a already running car, new Ford GT or a running kit car is that it is already running and you can drive it now. A new or unfinished kit will take time to finish and it will be a while before you have the pleasure to drive it. What is your time worth? Do you want to spend your time building a kit or driving your car? Where does your pleasure lie?
If you are going to buy either an existing built car or an un-finished kit you need to watch out because you won't fit inside some of the older made kits. Also if you are buying an existing car or un-finished kit you are going to look at in person before buying it aren't you and try to sit in it, correct. You are not going to buy something sight unseen are you? Not all owner built kits are built equal either. If you are buying used you'd want to look at it first, correct? You can do all the on-line research you want, but sooner or later you'll have to go out an look at actual cars and kits.
Last is buying a new kit. You should also get out and see examples of existing kits and cars or also pay a visit to the factory that makes them. You live in Michigan. RCR is in Michigan. What are you waiting for? Start off at RCR and see what they are doing over there and what they offer. The longest journey begins with the first step. Fran of RCR has invited you over you should take him up on the offer.
Jim
Agree with that. Probably a very wise thing to do even if you don't go with an RCR. It will give you an idea of a what a high quality replica should be like.
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
One has to be honest with themselves. I can only speak of my own GT40 but imagine the others are similar. It is a hot, loud, cramped, shaking, ear drum rattling, no power anything, race car. If you've never been in one on the road, that would be my first step. I don't know about not having to worry about your safety in a Ford GT. With just a pulley and tune they can be 650hp and with a very responsive supercharger, they will put you in the ditch faster than you can blink. They drive so smoothly with much less effort than a GT40 that the uninitiated can easily gain a sense of over confidence that will end badly in many cases. I love both but it is my guess that many that are drawn to the GT40 will in fact find them to not be what they expected on a day to day basis and that a Ford GT would be a much better choice. The icing on the cake is that the Ford GTs while rising in price quickly over recent months will never lose value and are one of the few cars that could ever be considered investment grade.
Is the Guy in New Zealand Dave Brown at Classic Car Developments?
Yes, so if your in Gore your only 45/50 minutes away from one of the best GT40 builders in the world, but I think you might already know that!
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
Why that is easy... Dogfish 90min or 120min if you can find it. Case closed!
Yes, so if your in Gore your only 45/50 minutes away from one of the best GT40 builders in the world, but I think you might already know that!
Yeah I do:thumbsup: a
I went passed his shop the other week and he had 2 on the go
The answer is simple, as I hate to admit, the Belgiums!
It might be easier to decide on who makes the worst one
Bob
Bob
Yes, so if your in Gore your only 45/50 minutes away from one of the best GT40 builders in the world, but I think you might already know that!
Jac Mac Sir I have to correct your comment - Dave Brown at Classic car Development has THE most accurate and best quality car on the world market. Exact original Abbey Panels spec and just the best panel fit and general build quality that you will see. This is a true continuation and prices for a complete car seem to beat everyone hands down.
Pics here of CCD's latest monocoque chassis just back from paint & ready to start the assembly process for a European client.
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You could well be right Paulus, and I did consider writing it 'that' way, but knowing some of the 'nit pickers' that frequent this website I felt I might be opening a door that would be difficult to shut! However, you have now opened that door
....I will let you deal with any fallout:uneasy:The title of this thread is a contentious one and since very few vendors actually completely finish a car, either owners/builders or third parties actually doing the finish work standards & finish quality vary a lot, I know from contact & PM with some vendors who cringe when they 'see' what the customer does with the product & on the other hand some vendors need a good sharp kick in the butt for letting stuff go out the door in sub-standard condition.
I raced against Dave at Teretonga when we were teenagers some 45 or more years ago & occasionally call in if I happen to be in Invercargill, have spent a few hours on the phone with John Shand as well!!
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You could well be right Paulus, and I did consider writing it 'that' way, but knowing some of the 'nit pickers' that frequent this website I felt I might be opening a door that would be difficult to shut! However, you have now opened that door
The title of this thread is a contentious one and since very few vendors actually completely finish a car, either owners/builders or third parties actually doing the finish work standards & finish quality vary a lot, I know from contact & PM with some vendors who cringe when they 'see' what the customer does with the product & on the other hand some vendors need a good sharp kick in the butt for letting stuff go out the door in sub-standard condition.
I raced against Dave at Teretonga when we were teenagers some 45 or more years ago & occasionally call in if I happen to be in Invercargill, have spent a few hours on the phone with John Shand as well!!
Hi Jac Mac. Yeah - the nitpickers are always there, thats for sure. But I have had the privilege of viewing & inspecting various originals 1965/66 cars 'under the skin' over recent years, plus Tennant chassis', a Peter Thorpe Safir, 2 Sbarro's, plus those of the modern vendors. I have built up a fairly sizable photographic file on these cars so am very comfortable with my words even though some will feel my statements as very bold.
For sure, everyone has there own opinions, loyalties, and personal preferences and I respect all that but I personally researched my options very carefully before placing my own complex project with CCD so I will stick to my guns on this one.
Re John Shand - I had the pleasure of meeting with John when I was at CCD. He is an all round great guy and definitely a highly skilled craftsman.
Sounds like we'll all have to have a few laps together at Teratonga Park circuit next time i'm out there early 2014!
Paul
I will upload a few pics that I took of a couple of the GT40 Mk1 tubs that were in process at CCD the other week.
Crappy photographer (me!) but through the blurry lens and poor colour/lighting you can hopefully see the accuracy of the panel fit and the correct welding methods, all of which is integral to the strength of the tub's design.
I did not see one spot weld on any of the four Mk1 tubs at CCD's which showed any signs of them being pulled-in to adjust for any bad gaps between any panels as everything fitted perfectly as all panels are exactly as per the FAV drawings that are held by CCD, with all panels being accurately & consistently and formed with their in house tooling.
Original FAV assembly methods are also followed whereby the major sub-structures of the chassis (fuel sponsons, rear bulkhead 'torque box', engine bay side structures) are firstly pre assembled and correctly welded before being finally married together into the chassis as a whole.
Dimensions are carefully taken at every step from a central datum point running from front to rear of the tub so that the final geometry at the wheels is correct.
The attached pics shows the front dog-leg rail for the lower wishbone mounts is an important indicator of chassis 'correctness' - here you can see the one piece construction with correct length of chamfer on the dog leg rail. You can compare this to other mfrs tubs.
The pic of the tub without the welding clamp is an original car under restoration a couple of years ago - this is taken from a slightly different angle but its easy to see the matching panel pattern & build quality.
Crappy photographer (me!) but through the blurry lens and poor colour/lighting you can hopefully see the accuracy of the panel fit and the correct welding methods, all of which is integral to the strength of the tub's design.
I did not see one spot weld on any of the four Mk1 tubs at CCD's which showed any signs of them being pulled-in to adjust for any bad gaps between any panels as everything fitted perfectly as all panels are exactly as per the FAV drawings that are held by CCD, with all panels being accurately & consistently and formed with their in house tooling.
Original FAV assembly methods are also followed whereby the major sub-structures of the chassis (fuel sponsons, rear bulkhead 'torque box', engine bay side structures) are firstly pre assembled and correctly welded before being finally married together into the chassis as a whole.
Dimensions are carefully taken at every step from a central datum point running from front to rear of the tub so that the final geometry at the wheels is correct.
The attached pics shows the front dog-leg rail for the lower wishbone mounts is an important indicator of chassis 'correctness' - here you can see the one piece construction with correct length of chamfer on the dog leg rail. You can compare this to other mfrs tubs.
The pic of the tub without the welding clamp is an original car under restoration a couple of years ago - this is taken from a slightly different angle but its easy to see the matching panel pattern & build quality.
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Some other close up shots.
Brazing methods still used where specified (eg horse-collar bushes)
Front wishbone vertical struts have correct non-parallel geometry (not generally followed by other mfrs.)
Brazing methods still used where specified (eg horse-collar bushes)
Front wishbone vertical struts have correct non-parallel geometry (not generally followed by other mfrs.)
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...and C.C.D. manufacture a very pretty range of authentic Jaguar C & D types for the more sensible petrol head paternity amongst us!
An incredible 3000 man hours go into each car that they build.
An incredible 3000 man hours go into each car that they build.
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...and outside of work, some personal projects of Dave Brown's skilled workforce include a unique lightweight bike engined road/track racer called 'MLF Blackbird' (where MLF he admits = Mid Life Crisis!!) and a nice little rotary engined 1988 Mazda 767B recreation to nip down the shops in at the weekend.
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