My opinion... I would worry more about getting the wheel distance to the driver right and the distance to the accesories is way to close on many cars for my liking for the exact reason Mike mentions... Get busy when driving like a ding dong and I tag my signal light flicker way to often; especially in my old RS6.... Signaling and changing from hi to low beams is a very deliberate action so unless it is to far away to reach with hands on the wheel I would likely like that extra distance.... I say if you can still reach them easily then leave the set up as is.
Yos' SLC Build Thread
- Thread starter slc4yos
- Start date
:laugh:
You make a good point Kyle. I might just do that. It really doesnt feel bad at all from the drivers seat...it'll probably come down to the interior design and flow...
I plan to mount he quick disconnect as far forward as possible. With the power column fully retracted and the seat all the way back, the wheel still seems a bit close to me.
I cut my QD right at the end of the spline. I plan to mount the QD spline within 1/8" of the clockspring. That leaves just enough room to get my fingers around release ring comfortably.
I cut my QD right at the end of the spline. I plan to mount the QD spline within 1/8" of the clockspring. That leaves just enough room to get my fingers around release ring comfortably.
Don't forget to try the spacing out wearing gloves too. I have one car that I inadvertantly turn the wipers on at the track. Never happens on the street. Its: a:annoying b:embarrassing and c:inconvenient as they won't re-park as low at high speed.
Could you cloak the distance with a "Momo" style rubber spacer?
Could you cloak the distance with a "Momo" style rubber spacer?
Yos' I just finished reviewing your build threat for about the tenth time and I noticed that in the pictures in post #36, you used roll bar brackets (very nice) on the horizontal surface; however, on the vertical surface where you have the flex pipe, you used a different mounting bracket. I am wondering why you didn't use the the roll bar bracket throughout?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
I'm with you Bill...I feel like it should be a lot closer. But how far I can go will depend on the dish of the wheel. With the Momo wheel I have, I really don't think I could cut to the splines and weld it an 1/8" from the clockspring. The wheel would touch the stalks at that point.
I think... :huh:
As much as I don't like the look of it. I think you make a good point Luke. It's probably good for a radical driving enviorment. Or like Kyle says..."when driving like a ding dong".
My Silverado has the stalks 1.75" away from the wheel. My old lady's little Sonic has the stalks 2" away. So I guess the SLC at 2.75" isn't so bad. It just looks wrong...
Hey Jim...I love those roll cage mounts. The reason I only used them where I did is...they're pretty damn bulky. They just wouldn't fit in the wheel well. The P clamps used to get around the footbox gives the system some flex too.
Yeah I do not know if I am more of a ding or a dong or equal measures...
Here is a picture for referance. That converts to 223MPH for yall south of the boarder. :shifty::shifty::shocked::shocked::lipsrsealed::lipsrsealed:
Attachments
Dave Lindemann
Lifetime Supporter
Yos-
I am a new member to the forum. I am expecting delivery of my SLC in the next few weeks and trying to get parts in line. You mentioned in your post back a ways about brake line clips you secured from summit. I am struggling to find these clips and I really like the way they look. Can you provide any furhter information?
Thanks, Todd
I am a new member to the forum. I am expecting delivery of my SLC in the next few weeks and trying to get parts in line. You mentioned in your post back a ways about brake line clips you secured from summit. I am struggling to find these clips and I really like the way they look. Can you provide any furhter information?
Thanks, Todd
Michael Fling
Supporter
Here's the Summit part numbers.
MFY-1018813 Single in Red
MFY-2028813 Dual in Red
I am considering using silicone fire sleeve on my coolant pipes. S-E13610 Silco Silicone Fiberglass Firesleeve Protection Sleeve
Has anyone used this, or do you have a better suggestion? Yos, did you stay with the 1.75" brackets or did you reduce to 1.5"?
MFY-1018813 Single in Red
MFY-2028813 Dual in Red
I am considering using silicone fire sleeve on my coolant pipes. S-E13610 Silco Silicone Fiberglass Firesleeve Protection Sleeve
Has anyone used this, or do you have a better suggestion? Yos, did you stay with the 1.75" brackets or did you reduce to 1.5"?
Todd, I bought my T-clamp, (brake line clamps) direct from the manufacture, “Made 4 You Products” and they were 3 bucks a pack cheaper than Summit.
The model numbers are:
#1018813 = 3/16” Red Single
#2028813 = 3/16” X 3/16” Red Double
Note: the suffix #13 denotes the color Red. If you want a color other than Red, you need to change the suffix #.
Jim
Glad the guys got you the info you're looking for. Those brake line clamps are my shining contribution to the SLC :thumbsup:
I swear I've gotten so many questions and PM's about those little thingy's...
Mcmaster Carr
Unslit Foam Rubber Pipe Insulation, 1/2" Thick, 1-3/8" Insulation Id, 6' Length
McMaster-Carr
I know I was one of them...nice parts.
[/QUOTE] Hey Jim...I love those roll cage mounts. The reason I only used them where I did is...they're pretty damn bulky. They just wouldn't fit in the wheel well. The P clamps used to get around the footbox gives the system some flex too.[/QUOTE]
Yos' thanks, I knew that there had to be a good reason!
What diameter P-clamp did you use for the coolant line?
Thanks again,
Jim
Yos' thanks, I knew that there had to be a good reason!
What diameter P-clamp did you use for the coolant line?
Thanks again,
Jim
Do you mean for the roll cage clamps? I used the 1.5" ones. I have welded 1.5" aluminum pipes now. The kit supplied stainless pipes are 1.5" too.
Does anybody have a link to a clutch fork install tutorial? If I can find some pics and instructions for the standard Porsche install that'd be great too. I'll figure out the inverted part from there. I guess anything would help...
Also...should I do it with the motor in the car or out?
Here's a quick teaser pic of the motor as it sits right now. I'm in the process of some more "fit and finish" work...
Also...should I do it with the motor in the car or out?
Here's a quick teaser pic of the motor as it sits right now. I'm in the process of some more "fit and finish" work...