Yos' SLC Build Thread
- Thread starter slc4yos
- Start date
Of course Jack could insert a signature line in his notes...
. Or modify his handle! :lipsrsealed:Sweet SL-C you have there!
Yos congrats on the SL-C, are you going to build it for the street or the track, also I see a different headlight assembly and turn signal location than mine. I like it. The color is really going to stand out, nice. Enjoy the assembly which looks like it is a good bit done from Fran which is the way to go, their know how on some things really will save time on your end which is worth it. Are you going to do anything to the LS-9 of leave it stock? I can say it will be fast.
Thanks.
Thanks. I'm on the base about once a month. I'll coordinate with you for a visit prior to.
I'll be coordinating to meet Yos and see his SCL soon (maybe this week end). Yos, thanks for the invite.
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Lopro.. Would you please do us a favor and check out the FAQ and pay particular attention to rule number two regarding user names.
Thanks.
GT40s.com - FAQ
Hopefully I'll get something together that's worth posting about very soon. Parts are rolling in :thumbsup:
Some coolant line pics. I used header wrap on the side pipes and I think I'm going to use the flex hose to go around the front wheel area. It's either that or welded pipes.
It looks like it might be impossible to service the connections with the body on. If that turns out to be the case...I'll have pipes welded up.
I used roll bar clamps to mount the pipes, and I ordered 1.75" clamps to clear the header wrap. The pipes still ended up a little loose inside the clamps, so I used set screws to hold everything snug. Came out great.
I used the steel clamps for the header wrap on both ends. On the end that ends up with the "floppy" wrap end I went over it with radiator hose repair tape. It seems to be a good product. And easy to work with...
Mounted...
Set screw...
Front end...
It looks like it might be impossible to service the connections with the body on. If that turns out to be the case...I'll have pipes welded up.
I used roll bar clamps to mount the pipes, and I ordered 1.75" clamps to clear the header wrap. The pipes still ended up a little loose inside the clamps, so I used set screws to hold everything snug. Came out great.
I used the steel clamps for the header wrap on both ends. On the end that ends up with the "floppy" wrap end I went over it with radiator hose repair tape. It seems to be a good product. And easy to work with...
Mounted...
Set screw...
Front end...
The LS9 uses an air water/air intercooler set-up, so I had to find a way to incorporate heat exchangers into the SLC. I found some at frozen boost that seemed to fit, and were the largest ones I could find. The ZR-1 uses a fairly small one from the factory. And according to the math...I should be almost double the fin area with these two. Hopefully I'll keep the charge cool enough. I'm also going to use a water pump for the system that triples the factory flow. And I'll be mounting fans on each of them too. As Jack would say..."Belt and suspenders..."
I had to fab up some brackets so I could mount these at the side scoop area. They were done quickly so I could place them for clearance and get the body removed. I'll build brackets for the bottoms during final assembly.
Here's the heat exchangers...
My first cuts...
Mounted...
Shot with both brackets installed...
I had to fab up some brackets so I could mount these at the side scoop area. They were done quickly so I could place them for clearance and get the body removed. I'll build brackets for the bottoms during final assembly.
Here's the heat exchangers...
My first cuts...
Mounted...
Shot with both brackets installed...
Dry sump tank install. The Peterson 16" x 9" tank does fit.
Barely...
It looks like I'll have about an 1/8" of clearance at best all the way around the tank. I'll install some rubber on the close contact points during final assembly. It does fit in the space, but I have no doubt that if you hit a bump...the tank WILL make contact with the chassis.
I made a plate that bolts in the frame between the gas tank and engine bay. I used 1/4" aluminum for strength. This tank is going to be heavy when its full. The bottom of the plate is bolted through the 2x2, and the top is threaded into the 2x6 beam.
Pre-fitment...
The plate...
Fitting it in the chassis was a bear. Lining up for tapped holes needs to be precise!
If you look closely...you'll see I had to add a 1/8" spacer at the top of the bracket to snug everything up.
Installed...
Barely...
It looks like I'll have about an 1/8" of clearance at best all the way around the tank. I'll install some rubber on the close contact points during final assembly. It does fit in the space, but I have no doubt that if you hit a bump...the tank WILL make contact with the chassis.
I made a plate that bolts in the frame between the gas tank and engine bay. I used 1/4" aluminum for strength. This tank is going to be heavy when its full. The bottom of the plate is bolted through the 2x2, and the top is threaded into the 2x6 beam.
Pre-fitment...
The plate...
Fitting it in the chassis was a bear. Lining up for tapped holes needs to be precise!
If you look closely...you'll see I had to add a 1/8" spacer at the top of the bracket to snug everything up.
Installed...