Build Progress-Week of 08/16/2013:
With Mike still on vacation and George still tending to his wife; I've been flying solo again this week.
You don't really appreciate the extra sets of hands until there not there. Case in point...my back ordered fuel tank sending unit arrived so I pulled the fuel tank (again) so I could drill/tap and flush the tank (again). You may remember that a few weeks ago we made a bulk head to separate the fuel compartment from the engine compartment. Because of the protrusion of the fuel fill nipple into the engine compartment, the bulk head and fuel tank must be removed as one unit. (pic. # 002)There is a bit of a sequence combination to removing these two. I don't think that I have Alzheimer's (yet); but sometimes....I just forget to remember. This is an instance when the extra sets of hands (and brains) would have come in handy!
Horns:
I installed a set of HLA Horns (P/N-003399801 Summit Racing-$59.97) on each side of the radiator nose piece. (pic. # 003) I would have preferred bending the mounting brackets 90* so that the horn face would be parallel with the front of the radiator. However, the directions warn against doing so; claiming that bending the bracket will effect the audio quality. Not being an audio expert...I simply followed directions. Although, I am considering fabricating two 90* “L” brackets and attaching the horn brackets to my “L” brackets. But for now the horns are just running straight of the radiator side panel. The horn bracket is a little unusual; rather than a signal piece of 1/8” stock, the 1/8” thickness is comprised of three thin pieces of stock. I assume that there is a reason for that, I just don't know what it is?
Speaking of Directions:
With all the parts I've been receiving, I've acquired quite a stack of manufactures directions. Managing them without misplacing them for possible future reference has become a problem.
Solution: I bought a cheap 3-hole punch (Staples) for the shop and I now put the manufactures installation/maintenance directions at the beginning of each related topic section in my SL-C Build Manual 3-ring binder.
Fuel Tank Sending Unit:
Here's a heads-up for those builders that want to pre-order supplies and tools pre-delivery. You will need a tube of Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealer (Carquest P/N 81158-$7.68) to seal the cork gasket of the sending unit to the tank mounting plate. You will also need a 31-32 drill bit to drill a hole large enough to accommodate the collar on the sending unit pick-up tube. You cold use a 15'/16” bit and file to enlarge. A 31-32 hole is very slightly larger than you need but I didn't see a problem with that. I used Red Permatex Threadlocker on the five 10-24X1-1/4” socket head bolts I drilled/tapped to secure the sending unit head.
A note of caution that is mentioned in the SL-C Build Manual but probably worth repeating here. The mounting holes are NOT symmetric, so it is important to orientate and mark each hole individually.
Bulk Head Sound Deadening:
While I had the bulk head out, I applied a couple of coats of Sound Boom spray on sound deadening and a layer of Thermo-Tec “Cool It” heat shield.
Tube Stock End Caps:
In post #33 I talked about using 1”X2” rectangular tube stock as risers for my seats. I picked up some nice end caps to finish of the open ends of the channel. (pic. # 001) Additionally, I liked Ken's suggestion (post #55) of using the rectangular tube as a chase way for the hand brake cable. I plan on drilling a hole in the center of the end cap and insert a grommet to protect the cable from chaffing.
Jim
With Mike still on vacation and George still tending to his wife; I've been flying solo again this week.
You don't really appreciate the extra sets of hands until there not there. Case in point...my back ordered fuel tank sending unit arrived so I pulled the fuel tank (again) so I could drill/tap and flush the tank (again). You may remember that a few weeks ago we made a bulk head to separate the fuel compartment from the engine compartment. Because of the protrusion of the fuel fill nipple into the engine compartment, the bulk head and fuel tank must be removed as one unit. (pic. # 002)There is a bit of a sequence combination to removing these two. I don't think that I have Alzheimer's (yet); but sometimes....I just forget to remember. This is an instance when the extra sets of hands (and brains) would have come in handy!
Horns:
I installed a set of HLA Horns (P/N-003399801 Summit Racing-$59.97) on each side of the radiator nose piece. (pic. # 003) I would have preferred bending the mounting brackets 90* so that the horn face would be parallel with the front of the radiator. However, the directions warn against doing so; claiming that bending the bracket will effect the audio quality. Not being an audio expert...I simply followed directions. Although, I am considering fabricating two 90* “L” brackets and attaching the horn brackets to my “L” brackets. But for now the horns are just running straight of the radiator side panel. The horn bracket is a little unusual; rather than a signal piece of 1/8” stock, the 1/8” thickness is comprised of three thin pieces of stock. I assume that there is a reason for that, I just don't know what it is?
Speaking of Directions:
With all the parts I've been receiving, I've acquired quite a stack of manufactures directions. Managing them without misplacing them for possible future reference has become a problem.
Solution: I bought a cheap 3-hole punch (Staples) for the shop and I now put the manufactures installation/maintenance directions at the beginning of each related topic section in my SL-C Build Manual 3-ring binder.
Fuel Tank Sending Unit:
Here's a heads-up for those builders that want to pre-order supplies and tools pre-delivery. You will need a tube of Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealer (Carquest P/N 81158-$7.68) to seal the cork gasket of the sending unit to the tank mounting plate. You will also need a 31-32 drill bit to drill a hole large enough to accommodate the collar on the sending unit pick-up tube. You cold use a 15'/16” bit and file to enlarge. A 31-32 hole is very slightly larger than you need but I didn't see a problem with that. I used Red Permatex Threadlocker on the five 10-24X1-1/4” socket head bolts I drilled/tapped to secure the sending unit head.
A note of caution that is mentioned in the SL-C Build Manual but probably worth repeating here. The mounting holes are NOT symmetric, so it is important to orientate and mark each hole individually.
Bulk Head Sound Deadening:
While I had the bulk head out, I applied a couple of coats of Sound Boom spray on sound deadening and a layer of Thermo-Tec “Cool It” heat shield.
Tube Stock End Caps:
In post #33 I talked about using 1”X2” rectangular tube stock as risers for my seats. I picked up some nice end caps to finish of the open ends of the channel. (pic. # 001) Additionally, I liked Ken's suggestion (post #55) of using the rectangular tube as a chase way for the hand brake cable. I plan on drilling a hole in the center of the end cap and insert a grommet to protect the cable from chaffing.
Jim