Side Windows.. Better Idea

I am surprised after doing some searches that noone has spent much time addressing the screw on side windows. This seems to be so impracticle. Looking at the doors it appears that there is some room. I dont have experience as a fabricator and am hesitant to try to modify the doors. At the least it would seem that the window can be made to clip in and out. Please dont let this topic die without some thought. I hope for some brainstorming.
Thanks,
Daniel

[ November 12, 2002: Message edited by: DanielD ]

 

I'm thinking about Camloc spring-loaded 1/4 turn fasteners. These are expensive (around $250 for both windows), but it would probably be the slickest method in terms of ease and appearance.

Another option would be heavy-duty velcro. I would think that this could be applied and simply look like a narrow black band around the perimeter of the window. Just be warned-- I use this stuff for work everyday, and it is extremely strong. Care would have to be taken when removing the windows, or you could easily crack them.

 

[Hershal Byrd]

Max,
You wouldn't need to put the velcro completely around the window. If I was doing it that way I would simply use 1/8th
inch foam tape with one side adhesive. Put the tape on the window all the way around the perimeter. Then cut out one inch sections of the foam and replace it with one inch pieces of the velcro. This way the foam seals the window and the small pieces of velcro around the window will hold it tight against the foam. Oh yeah, the other part of the velcro gets glued to the window frame on the door.
The reason I never did this is because I have AC and fresh air vent. so They don't need to come off. And when you do remove them there is the issue of where to store them in the car. I have also determined that I can feed a Toll both hopper without an opening window. I discovered that by simply opening the door about 6" allows your hand and arm to reach out, toss the coins into the hopper or hand money to the attendant.

Hersh

 

[Dave Wharran]

I wondered about toll booths. Thought I'd just have the wife jump out and pay!!

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

I thought the original windows were impractical as well. I asked to have sliding plexiglass panels set into the windows in my car, like (I think) 1021 or 1019, so that there will be some air circulating and I can reach out if need be. Mind you, you can put only so much practicality into an essentially impractical car.

 

[ChrisL]

Very small ring-grip Dzus fasteners - as used to hold the fairing on my Triumph Daytona motorcycle - would work and look very slick. No idea of the cost though... astronomical I would expect.

 

The use of Dzus fasteners sounds like the best option. I like the option of having the windows open when the weather and temperature permit. How much does Dzus fasteners cost? Hopefully someday someone will come up with replacement doors with rollup windows. The FFR Cobra people are always coming up with aftermarket options. I guess its because of the numbers that create the market.

Daniel

 

[dave harris]

I'm not sure that the typical Dzus fasteners are the way to go on this one.

Look up "Southco" fasteners on the web. They have a slick 1/4 turn "small series" product that uses a square snap-in receptacle for the 1/4 turn lock that is made for blind panel insertion (which is what most of the window area is on a 40.
the part measures .39 in sq by .33 in deep (9.9 mm sq x 8.3 mm deep). You then choose the length of the 1/4 turn lock based on the thickness of the plexi, rubber gasket, and if you want the optional plastic washer under the head of the device to prevent scratches.

 

Thank you Dave. What is your guess on the lenght I'll need, considering the thickness of gasket and plexiglass? I would definately use the washer to prevent scratching. Have you done this yurself or used these fasteners?
Dan

 

[dave harris]

Hi Daniel,

I have used these types of fasteners many time for many different applications. I can not answer the "how long" part of your question as it depends on the thickness of the plexiglass window, thickness of your rubber insulation, and mounting style (receptical) you choose etc.

Look at www.aboveboardelectronics.com/ and then go to Southco main page. then choose the 1/4 turn option and pick the smallest ones. this site offers "free" samples - so you could get a couple of different ones to try out.

There is a nice press-in (glue in for fiberglass) round mount that will fit in the space available and the screw will look like what is already there. If you are retrofitting to an existing window with a large number of screws, I would suggest that you not replace all of the screws with the 1/4 turn locks. Simply cut the existing screws that you are not replacing and glue into the window itself. It will look like they are being used and no one would be able to tell.

I will be trying this on my car as soon as it arrives (6 weeks +/-), and if I can talk my friend into being my lab-rat, I might be able to get him to try it on his first!!!

Hope this helps

 

before worrying about windows drive your car for a while and see if you need them. I have air in mine and have had no desire to modify. I have had the square cut-outs put into the windows for authentic look but have only used them a couple of times Regards

 

[Jim Glickenhaus]

What about for safety: ie exhaust leakage into the cockpit? Mine seem to help freshen the air.

 

[Guest]

Daniel, both the way I am mounting my windows and the way Mark Clapp (of headlight and parking light cover fame) mounts his windows make them very easy to remove. Not a 1/4 turn mind you, but still easy. Mark puts a heli-coil in the recess and the puts screws into that. I am using little #6 rubber well nuts and stainless allen head screws. With a battery screw driver either method will allow the windows to be removed in less than 5 minutes.

 

Lynn, The way you plan on tackling the windows sounds like a good way to do it as well. I wont be able to do anything for more then a month. I'm looking forward to trying one of these methods.
Daniel

 

[Peter Delaney]

Another option that you might like to consider is the MKIII windows (DRB/GT40Australia offer them as an option on their cars). In essence, they consist of a thin f/glass frame which fits into the standard window opening in the door. In the frame, there is a fixed quarter window at the front & a large main window, hinged at the front & swinging out at the back, locked in place by a "snap-over" latch. The beauty of this setup is that you can release the latch, swing the window out an extra 20-30deg, then just lift it off vertically.

I have used this in my DRB, and have fixed the whole window & frame assemblies to the doors with 4mm s/s bolts running into helicoils in the door. This will allow me to completely remove the MKIII setup & swap it with standard 1-piece perspex windows as required.

Peter D.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Peter
Can you post some pics? Lynn, how about yours?
Bill

 

[Peter Delaney]

I'm a bit rusty on posting pics, but here goes !

the attached pic is a bit old & doesn't show the "snap-over" latch at the back edge of the main window. BTW, the nice aluminium frames around the perspex (& all the hinge/latch gear) come with the kit from GT40Australia).

Peter D.

 

Peter,
The window kit looks like a good setup. Do you think there are any differences in the window opening of the CAV? I imagine CAV doors are the same as GTD doors. Whats the total cost including shipping to the states? Who are the contacts?
Thanks,
Daniel

 

[Guest]

Daniel, I have seen a set of these in a friends car in Nashville (one installed and one not.) The composite frames that hold the whole thing are made oversized, so as long as the overall shape of the window opening hasn't been altered, you should be able to fit them. In Peter's picture the composite frames are held in with fasteners, when this option is ordered from GT40Aus they are optionally bonded in and look real nice- a part of the door.

Peter, I enquired to Mr. Ransom on these and he only sent me a price list that was a bit ambiguous as to what you were getting for $800+ price tag. I guess my rants about his lack of responsiveness really ticked him off because I have not been able to get any type of conversation going with him to clarify this since then. Initially, I suspected that the price tag was for the MkIIIs bonded into the door as an option when ordering a kit. Talking to Bob Williams educated me on the amount of hand work that goes into constructing the fine aluminum frames, hinges and cam locks which are all hand made. Can you clarify for us what the cost is if we just wanted to order the window kit and install it in our doors, please? Or, if we even can order it this way? I, for one, would be very greatful as I have always liked the MkIII windows since Dennis sent me a whole packet of pictures of the DRB some three years ago. I am far more into functionality than aesthetics or histrionics and really like the useability these windows add to the car.

PS. Peter, I have pretty much resigned my self to polishing the aluminum from time to time. When I get a chance, I may try brushing the Glisten on. I may try it on a different piece though as I really believe there is a problem between the Glisten and the particular alloy used to make my console cover. Thank you soooo much for all the help you gave me while I was trying to clear coat the piece!!!

 

Lynn,
are you sure Peter quoted you in US$$$ or in A$$$ (about half price)? The price list I got from GT40Australia was in A$$$.