MDA Mk1 with Gulf Arches - Martin P

[Martin]

I spent this morning fitting my roundal lights. I have the roundal decals already so it was easy enough to use these to align the lights correctly. I studied pictures of P1075 to get the placing right. Think it's pretty much there. I know they will have to come off again for IVA but I want them wired up first and everything working before I take her apart again for the test.

Martin

 

[Randy V]

Ever closer Martin!

Curious why you have to take the Roundel lights off for the IVA? Can you not just remove the bulb or fuse? Then they are just decorations!

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Randy it relates to colour of lights and what can be seen by other road users from various angles of visibility. Also, having a look at the pics it may fall foul of the radius test.

Brett

 

[Martin]

Randy,

Bett's right. The test is quite particular on certain items like this. The number lights, along with the Marker lights will be on a separate switch so won't come on automatically with the driving lights but even so, they all have to come off. My fire supression pull cables will also have to come off + a host of other things. I'm getting close now though. Engine start soon and prep for IVA. I'm still aiming for IVA and registration by the end of the year. After that i will be recovering from the fainacial outlay of the car + Christmas, then into paint sometime in the new year. I'm hoping to be driving by spring 2011.

Martin

 

[Martin]

Today I painted the AVON letters on the tyres. Thanks to Chris Martino for the paint masks. Came out well. It's looking more and more like a 60's race car.

Martin

 

[Seymour Snerd]

.... I still need to buy the PC adaptor cable which is quite expensive but at least I've figured it out.

Martin

For the sake of my education: what is the nature of the PC cable and why is it expensive? Is it Motec-specific? If so why is it not supplied?

 

[Martin]

Hi Alan,
The PC cable is for downloading the Maps in the ECU to my home PC for back up. It is a Motec specific part as the M48 ECU that I have has a de scrambler chip in the PC cable to allow you to read it. Clever money making scheme.
As for it not being supplied. Don't get me started.

Martin

 

[Chris Martino]

Thanks Martin - nice to see it all coming together!


Chris

 

[Randy V]

I like the Avon lettering... Would be nice to find a rubberized paint like I used to be able to buy 25 years ago...

--Moderator note - Also cleaned up anti-Spam/Spam messages...

 

[Martin]

Thanks Randy,
I used plastic model paint rather than cellulose on the tyres. Time will tell if it holds up. I want the white to fade a little to give it the worn look. Brilliant white looks too new. I guess once it's driven, I'll get that anyhow.

Martin

 

[Jack]

Martin, I have not done this, however, there are a couple of products that should work:

Plasti Dip #11207-6 is a multi purpose white rubber coating in aerosol can. About $10.00

Expensive, but seems to show good result: American Automotive AAP 161Q white, only available in quart quantities at $74.00 per quart. Hot Rodders' use these with good result.

 

[Martin]

Thanks Molleur,

That's good info to have on my build log.

I have just had Mike Huddart round to verify my engine as it's age was something of a mystery to me. Mike does all the verifications for VOSA so his word is gospel. He offered to pop in and date it when he was next passing. I didn't realize until after he agreed to pop round that he actually took quite a big detour to visit me in the late evening after a days work.
THANK YOU MIKE.
The bottom line is my engine is a genuine 1990 block which means no CATS.:thumbsup:

This is great news for me.

Martin

 

[Chris Martino]

The Plasti-Dip isn't a good choice for rubber (that's what they told me) so I have been steering people to Ranger Tire Paint -

Ranger Tire Paint - Welcome

I at least know this stuff does work. Comes in different colors for you weirdo's... I kid

Sorry Martin!


Chris

 

[Jack]

Thanks Chris, good to know. Never used the stuff myself..(yet).

 

[Martin]

Today I mounted my Motec air temp sensor sticking up inside one of the air filters next to one of the inlet trumpets. I guessed that was probably going to give the ecu the best indication of the actual temp going into the engine. I also mounted the MAP sensor underneath the air filters and the Ignition module on the rear bulkhead next to the coil.

Martin

 

[Martin]

It's taken a while to post but I can now report that my clutch is working. The solution was devized by the guys at Southern GT. I had no space for a hydraulic release bearing so I needed to go back to the idea of using a mechanical arm. However, the original 930 mechanism was not possible to utilize in it's normal location. The solution was to make a new arm and position the slave cylinder somewhere else.
The result is an actuating arm and cylinder that is almost invisible as it's hidden underneath the crossmember. The crossmember had to be re made with cut outs underneath to accomodate the movement of the arm.

The photo shows the set up without the crossmember instralled.

I've sat in the car, pressed the pedal and it's so smooth and easy, It's like a production car clutch. Not heavy in the least and the action is very smooth.

Martin

 

[Martin]

Lots of updates to share..

Firstly, I had to make a rather hard decision regarding my ECU. I had a Motec M48 ECU and wiring harness provided with my engine. I thought this would be fine as it has sequential ignition timing built in and a Lambda sensor. However, after many discussions about it's suitability, I ditched it in favour of the new Accel system. The main issue with the Motec was that it was a system primarily designed for racing applications and not for controlling emmissions ( I had an early model M48 ) My inlet manifold was also a racing manifold with no air box for the IAC sensor.
This was my next change. My inlet manifold needed to be modified. This was done with some clever machining.

 

[Martin]

The Accel system was located behind the seats with the coil and some of the wiring hidden in one of the compartments that MDA's have, also behind the seats. The system is now almost ready to go live. The loom is in and all connections and sensors are there. The only remaining part is to build my throttle bodies back up.

 

[Martin]

My exhaust was changed for one of Southern GT's race silencer systems. These have no wadding inside but still pass the Goodwood noise test and will get me through IVA easily. They breath really well and my specific system has been custom made with cut outs in the silencers at the rear so the entire system can be kept as low as possible. This was always a problem with my Porsche box as the MDA cage sat high at the rear making the exhaust exit difficult. No problem now though.
It's not finished yet, but close.

 

[Martin]

I also had my dash flocked. I love the way it looks.
Massive holes now appearing in my bank balance.
When I undertook building one of these, I never imagined it would be so difficult or so expensive. Is it worth it ? Damn yes.