Similar, but with those you won't be able to fit the radiator because you couldn't get it past the inner threaded section, these were the ones I got https://amzn.eu/d/0hILBBLm
Chris's AK GT40 Build
- Thread starter 156Chris
- Start date
Not all the frames from AK are made exactly the same, much differences in quality and measurements.
No my radiator is a cheap eBay one (still 3 cores though) at 1/5 of the price of the AK one I thought I'd give it a go, someone else on here is using it and says it works well (can't remember the thread though)
I did notice on the build manual that the AK radiator is bolted straight to the chassis which I don't think is great. If mine was a tight fit I would have probably fabricated a top/bottom mounting solution, or maybe mounted it to the front of the chassis somehow instead
i have AK RAD and it is mounted directly to the chassis..
i think i will have to do some re jigging and possibly get some new brackets welded to rad so i can rubber mount.
because the ak chassis is u shape at the front with no top cross piece , therefore the rad becomes a structule item...not a good idea...
other way is to move the rad forward , outside the u chassis and make up some brackets that come from the outside of the chassis , this will allow some rubber bobbins to be used. In my case i will also have to make up longer ac hoses and extend the water pipes...fun....
Jerry
i think i will have to do some re jigging and possibly get some new brackets welded to rad so i can rubber mount.
because the ak chassis is u shape at the front with no top cross piece , therefore the rad becomes a structule item...not a good idea...
other way is to move the rad forward , outside the u chassis and make up some brackets that come from the outside of the chassis , this will allow some rubber bobbins to be used. In my case i will also have to make up longer ac hoses and extend the water pipes...fun....
Jerry
Hi @Jerry41 given that there are already cross braces at the suspension mounts I don't think this front section is load bearing at all, in fact looking at it I think this front section is only present to mount the radiator on to.
Obviously you're much further on with the build than I am so as always I could be wrong
Obviously you're much further on with the build than I am so as always I could be wrong
I would agree with you, there is minimal stress forces forward of the Upper strut mount. The forward lower control arm mount would be the only localized point, even that has structure bracing to the other side.
Thanks Chris and Douglas,
I have had a look back at my pictures of chassis before panels and , yes, correct it does appear that the front frame is non structual so it should be ok for the rad mounting as i have it..
Jerry
I have had a look back at my pictures of chassis before panels and , yes, correct it does appear that the front frame is non structual so it should be ok for the rad mounting as i have it..
Jerry
My concern was that during hard cornering the chassis will flex slightly, having the radiator bolted directly to the chassis will mean that the radiator will also flex possibly causing stress fractures over time etc ... it might be ok though
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
And the nose/pivots of the front clip are on the same structure
Over a bump in the road / hard cornering the weight of the body will also add to flexing moments.
I would definitely rubber mount
Over a bump in the road / hard cornering the weight of the body will also add to flexing moments.
I would definitely rubber mount
Paul Hendrickx
Supporter
and the Weight of the liquid inside de radiator which would be 8/9 kilogrammes in mouvement
Not heard of any rad cracks in these types of chassis so you should be good with what you have done. More likely to get a stone thrown up making a hole! I cracked a windscreen on a hill climb once in a hairpin corner on a steep incline but the rad was unaffected.
Hi Fred, yes I read this thread as part of my research, and my first approach was going to be creating a cradle similar to yours, but as I had a 10mm gap round the edge I thought I'd try the rubber bobbins.
With the bobbins in place I can move the radiator by hand by a couple of mm (key thing is to have 4 not 8 holding the rad)
Before I started the build I took some measurements of the chassis to make sure that everything was square as the panels left/right didn't seem to fit in the same way. There did seem to be about a 10mm difference between left and right of the car for the suspension mounting points, I talked to Jon and he stated that this is how the chassis came from SGT.
Before attaching the suspension I've rigged up some laser alignment and the front of the car seems to be perfect, which means that the rear mounting points seem to be slightly out, however this isn't a problem as this can be adjusted easily with the suspension
Before attaching the suspension I've rigged up some laser alignment and the front of the car seems to be perfect, which means that the rear mounting points seem to be slightly out, however this isn't a problem as this can be adjusted easily with the suspension
looks like your getting along nicely Chris.
if you have them, offer up the fuel tanks as the float access holes dont line up with the fuel tank float apperatures.
now is the time to elongate them to allow access for removal / fit of float gauges.
I also suggested to Phil that an access opening and cover is made to allow access to the crank pulley bolt to allow engine to be turned over as its a pain trying to do it in gear and rocking car .
Jerry
if you have them, offer up the fuel tanks as the float access holes dont line up with the fuel tank float apperatures.
now is the time to elongate them to allow access for removal / fit of float gauges.
I also suggested to Phil that an access opening and cover is made to allow access to the crank pulley bolt to allow engine to be turned over as its a pain trying to do it in gear and rocking car .
Jerry
Hi Jerry, I'm picking up the fuel tanks on Monday from AK so I'll follow your advice and getting the apertures expanding, I am half tempted to look at using a tof sensor to measure fuel level.
I've just got the engine mount back from AK as they had to be custom made as the holes in the chassis didn't line up with the supplied mounts, once I can get the engine test mounted I can see how much access I have
