2306

Bare block weight difference is 45 lbs. Recirpcating mass difference bearing in mid 302 stuff weighs less and I went ultra lighteweight on top of that 30lbs maybe even 40. Then heads intake etc all weigh less. So figure 100lbs or more. Most of which or say 60-70lbs comes off the top of the engine vs a 351. That top weight sits well above the roll centre of the car and does bad things to handling. The extra weight on a 351 is in the rear of the car, which does nothing good either.

On the track these weight distribution differences should be quite significant factors and as the power is more than adequate for track on my 302 build I dont think any extra power of a 351 based motor will help


Ac is still in the car, comprmises have to be made its a function of choices. Yes the compressor sits up high, but the condensor sits int he fornt, so its not too bad.,

Also doing the shorai battery which I have used before, 550 CCa 36 ah which should be Ok and it weighs only 5lbs

On the 302 block if you go radical like mine you can run honda journals and different mains, really light crank, 10lbs less than stock or scat, all of which leads to a more responsive revy motor, and even a anormal 302 is way more revy responsive than any 351. But you do have to be able to pull mnore revs than a 351 motor to get the desired power levels, a compemsation is a wide powerband to play with.

Bore and valve wear are going to be diferent to to a 6250rpm motor, but then after 15-20K on track most motors need fresehning whatever they are. Valve lash requires mainance, a drysump keeps things well oiled.

Hopefully it will have that big block kick on the street when hitting the torque peaks, and the revability and hp of a 302 race motor. Careful attention was paid to rod ratios and internal balance with knife edged counterweights, all rods pistons etc weighted to be equal, so hopefully its very smooth too. I am pretty sure though that it will be a bit soft below 2k rpm, but in a a manual light car one can live with that easily.

The 351 427s are great street motors, lots of TQ down low and plenty of HP for a very reasonable price. They weigh more, are more of a slugger, not as quick to rev, less broad powerband and are optimised for different conditions and utilise different gear ratios. Sucha mtor can comfortably pull less revs at highway speeds, and punch really hard with a downshift or even no downshift on the street.

Horese for courses.


I did considder a big bore stock stroke aluminum 351, something like 380 Ci or even 39o+. It would have been the same Hp with a bit more Tq and could have run hydralics easily to get there. If you have no mind to historic race its the best combo imo as it costs less than a fully worked 302 is more reliable and less maintance intensive and the weights when all is said and done comes out to the same.

Since I am plannign on using mine mostly on track, Dennis convinced me that its inevitable to go to a race here or there, and I got techincaly fixated on taking a 302 as far as it could go, and wanted to see what could be done, yet still maintain civility and pump gas.

As for exhaust will start with silencers and may have mgeaphones for occasional use. Even with silencers these cars are pretty loud.

I am guessing that compared to a regular 351/427 car I should save 120 +--lbs from the rear.
Have maybe a bit more Hp and a bit less TQ. Gearing will be optimised for the motor and the wide poweband should offer good options.

The adjustable shocks stiffer springs, canards, single nostril bermbo rotors, and pads will round out the track spec.

Roll bar race seat 5pt harnesses, fuel cells round out the safty/track upgrades.

It will be very interesting to see how it goes, while streetable the spec is skewed to track, once again you have to compromise somewhere, and comming from a street/track lotus light weight handling and durability are priorities. Still 60's chasis tech may be a letdown or maybe they got it right back then, reports seem to indicate thye got it right.

But if it becomes a street biased car, a seat swap, and stock shocks/springs shoudl make it as useable as any other Gt40.

This has been a project cooking in my mind since era came out with their rep in the 80's. Trackable is key to me because its was a race car in the day, and frankly its hard to use any fast car in the NE on street, there are plenty of local tracks and why hold back when you can just drive all out.
 
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Mike

Lifetime Supporter
My megs are a lot lighter than the silencers. Maybe 50bs. Just finished installing a Braille lithium battery and aluminum battery box minus 50lbs. Got rid of the ineffective e-brake setup drums, pads, expanders, and cables 30lbs. I left the A/C in for now only because I don't yet have an idler setup to put in place. That will knock off another 60lbs. That, and I am running a lightweight license plate. All in all I'd say I've knocked close to 250lbs off with a 427. I think I'm still lighter?

Haha just kidding only because I enjoy your verbose replies lol. In all seriousness, I like the way you've gone with your build and look forward to seeing and hearing it. Ditch the silencers BTW!
 

Dave Hood

Lifetime Supporter
Many of the local road courses in the Southeast set noise restrictions, so that may be one thing you check out if you plan to use any tracks that are local to you. For the major tracks that won't be an issue, of course.
 
What do the silencers weigh? Doesent seem too much more than megs, more of a sound issue.

LRP has a 92 DBA limit most days, so even with silencers its probably a fail, but there are some days there unsilenced.

Watkins glenn no noise restrictions, and Monticello will work Ok with the silencers. NJMP unsilenced.

In General its probably best to run silencers, and then maybe once a year megs for fun.
The other thing about silencers is thye should aid Tq while megs will work well for HP.

When we do the GT40 gatehring at daytona my guess is the 200mph cars are going to run Megs, same for the big bend open road race.

Loosing the e bake too, Dennis says it inetrferes with rear disk cooling if you run ducts.

I think a really great weight reduction would be lightweight wheels, loose unsprung weight, but such animals do not exist yet.
 
Are the SPF s/s monococ like the CAV's? Wait until you drive it at night on the street. All the cars head lights are pointed right in your eyes. Ask me how I know. HEE HEE. When my CAV was delivered from So. Africa the engine & trans were already built. It took 3 days to install the drivetrain and set it up for the road and on the 4 th. day I brought it home. The most fun thing I ever owned.

JOSEPH

PS: Good luck with yours.
 

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SPF same monococ as the Gt40's from the 60s, actualy the stiffer MK2 verison on all spf cars. Possibly less modern or durable and more complex than CAV, but probably stiffer.

Wish it took only a few days to put together. More like 6 weeks, and we only finalised gearbox ratios yesterday, so the box is still 4 weeks out. Some stuff can be done before then, like roll bar, fuel system, race seat, shocks springs track stuff etc.

Fuel bladders are in, and removing he regular tanks and doing the install requires dismantling most of the front suspension.

My guess is delivery mid to late Aug. Which is ok as I can get into my summer track groove till then on my lotus and have sept through Nov to get into the 40. Given the speeds to be obtained in a Gt40 its probably just as well.
 
Some progress, custon gearsets done and gearbox built.
The build is back on track, should be done feb mar.
Motor came out at 574 hp 7100 rpms and 465 ftlbs at 4900, gearbox was then built to match motor.
 

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Some progress, custon gearsets done and gearbox built.
The build is back on track, should be done feb mar.
Motor came out at 574 hp 7100 rpms and 465 ftlbs at 4900, gearbox was then built to match motor.

Nice, I actually see my MKII the gulf color car sitting in the background, Dennis is doing some upgrades for me as well
 
Superformance GT 40 owners in NJ USA?

Hello, I'm very interested in the Superformance GT 40. I live in New Jersey, USA. I would like to talk with an owner in my region. Anyone out there?

Thanks,

Tom
 
Looking great Sean. What ratios did you choose for the transaxle?

Started with motor. 465ftlbs at 4900 and 574hp at 7100, the internals of the mtor are good for 8k+, so quite a bit different to a 427 rousch whcih is limited to 6500rpm and has more low down Tq.

rations optimised for track as follows.

A 4.22 final drive with

1, 2.58 possibly a bit short but good for loading car on trailer,pulling away.
2, 1,47
3 1.04
4. .846
5. .704


These ratios are based on a track setup and designed for the correct rev drops(less drop with speed) as one winds through the gears with the top gears being closer spaced.

My assumption is to run 26 diameter hoosier slicks on track or the 26.9 avon road tires. Essentialy tire diameter acts as a rear ratio change. The motor ony looses 10 hp by 7500 rpm so there sia broad range to play with and at 7350 with avons it will be going 200mph. At 7200 with hoosiers on track it will be in the mid 180s, and its going to be hard to find a track that big.

If I want to run avon slicks then will widen the rear wheels to take the 27in slick.
There is also a 25.5 avon slick, so lots of possibilities in terms of gears for different tracks. At least that is the theory.

Sometimes I think its too tall sometimes too short. In any event each track dictates different ratios to limit sifts between certain bends so its always a compromise. These should work with my smaller more revy motor.
 
4.125 bore, 3.25 stroke 5.4 rods honda journals.
I belive rod ratio is 1.66 reasonably ok,
Comp ratio 11.1
Crank is very light about 26lbs internally balanced knife edeged counterweights, rods light too and cutom pistons. Shaft rockers etc. Lots of attention paid to very well blanced and light internal rotational mass. Heads are the new AFR 195's which were bought as blanks and the cnc milled etc. Carb is a quick fuel.

Heads make the power, all the rest makes it smooth and durable.
 
4.125 bore, 3.25 stroke 5.4 rods honda journals.
I belive rod ratio is 1.66 reasonably ok,
Comp ratio 11.1
Crank is very light about 26lbs internally balanced knife edeged counterweights, rods light too and cutom pistons. Shaft rockers etc. Lots of attention paid to very well blanced and light internal rotational mass. Heads are the new AFR 195's which were bought as blanks and the cnc milled etc. Carb is a quick fuel.

Heads make the power, all the rest makes it smooth and durable.

Essentially the same numbers as the motor I built for JO's TVR back about 2004 which is still going strong [ although we used std ford brg size ].
Reason I asked about the rods was many folk have wanted to achieve the exhaust note of 'that' GT40 video. I have wondered for some time whether the very healthy rod ratio of the 289 stroke @ 1.793 ( 5.155 rod ) or 1.848 (5.315 rod) helps with a longer duration cam & webers since it parks the piston @ TDC longer & kills the effect of long overlap periods, however since I spend more time on 4bbl's and most people I know want power rather than looks I am not likely to get the chance to try it out. I know it worked for me on another restricted class of racing years ago.
 
Essentially the same numbers as the motor I built for JO's TVR back about 2004 which is still going strong [ although we used std ford brg size ].
Reason I asked about the rods was many folk have wanted to achieve the exhaust note of 'that' GT40 video. I have wondered for some time whether the very healthy rod ratio of the 289 stroke @ 1.793 ( 5.155 rod ) or 1.848 (5.315 rod) helps with a longer duration cam & webers since it parks the piston @ TDC longer & kills the effect of long overlap periods, however since I spend more time on 4bbl's and most people I know want power rather than looks I am not likely to get the chance to try it out. I know it worked for me on another restricted class of racing years ago.

I am running a 4bbl too. Spent the money on the internals, plus everybody who "knows" said the 4bbl was simpler to setup and made more Hp more consistently.

Happy to hear a "short" stroke big bore 347 setup lasts. Most people who do a 347 use a 3.4 stroke and shorter rods, really a drag motor that is going to be harsh at revs.

No one really offers the short stroke 3.25 big bore 347, but the pieces are out there. In my case because I wanted light bits the crank was made up by crower.

Off course you can just do big bore stroked 351 and get similar power numbers at lower revs for 100 more lbs and less $$4 or hassle. But if you wnat a quick revy motor, dot mind the valve adjustments, and want to eliminate weight a 302 is the way to go, it just costs $$$ to get back up the power range. A 289/302 is also the way GT40 MK1's came.

All sort of academic as back in the day the most hp I saw listed for a 289 GT40/mirage was 425.


I'll do a sound recording this summer and post it. BTW I think every GT40 sounds great whteher 351 427 or 302.
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
Every GT40 running at Goodwood or Spa 6Hr sounds the same. Is it the flat tappet profile and the way that valves are opened and closed, or is it the stroke and rod ratio, or is it the Webers, maybe compression ratio, or maybe a combination of all those things? Nobody seems to know or is willing to share ;) I may not hit it on the first try but I will figure it out one way or another. I'm not sure any roller profile will yield the sound.
 
Every GT40 running at Goodwood or Spa 6Hr sounds the same. Is it the flat tappet profile and the way that valves are opened and closed, or is it the stroke and rod ratio, or is it the Webers, maybe compression ratio, or maybe a combination of all those things? Nobody seems to know or is willing to share ;) I may not hit it on the first try but I will figure it out one way or another. I'm not sure any roller profile will yield the sound.

the GT40 sound I know best us the one from the 60s movie a man and a woman.

My gues is only 289 ci high lift flat tappet cam, webers and exhaust.
 
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