302 or 351W??? I'm driving myself nuts

#21
Listen to Jac and build a 351 with standard bore and stroke. Reuse the crank and rods, new 30 over pistons, and edelbrock #60255 Performer RPM Cylinder Heads. Call Comp Cams and talk to their tech. guy and tell him you want 400 HP on pump gas with a medium hot hyd roller cam. Put a RPM performer intake and a 750 Holley DP on and drive it forever because that's how long it will last.

Or: Just do this...........

ATK High Performance Ford 351W 385HP Stage 3 Crate Engines HP11C - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Here's a bit more info from their website on the "mid dress option".

Ford 351W Mid Dress Engine 385HP

IMHO you can build you own with the CNC Ported RPM performer Edelbrock heads, raise the compression to a 10.5 to one, add some ARP rod bolts and good balance job and you should be right at 400 HP for less than $6500 with a little sweat equity.

Like I said, it will last forever.... if you keep it under 6500RPMs.
 
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#22
I just found a 351W out of a 1970 Cougar that was pulled years ago, supposidly running and been sitting in a garage since. Don't worry, I don't believe a thing that people who are selling engines are telling me. Great running engines are rarely pulled. And if they were, they would have been stuck in something else. My biggest thing is determining if it's ever been apart, ie. bored out. Really want an unmolested engine.

Getting the car is still probably a year away, but how often am I going to find an engine like this again that's anywhere near me. I think I'm going to see if I can snap it up.
 

Howard Jones

Gold Supporter
#23
I would take it apart, clean it up, pull the heads, oil pan, and take the assembled block and heads to a trusted machine shop. Ask him what he thinks about a performance machine work package. Bore to 30 over (if necessary), new pistons @ 10 to 1, line bore, and decking (ask how much but you want to keep this to just a couple of thousands if possible.

Heads, there was a 300HP or so version in 1970. It had a 4 barrel on it. The heads more than likely would support near 400HP with a good valve job, good intake and carb, and a better cam. Ask him to tell you what you have.

You might just have a gem there. A few hundred worth of machine work and some pistons, intake, carb and valve train (change valve springs to suit cam) and you just might be able to build a nice street motor for a couple of thou or less!!!!
 

Jac Mac

Active Member
#25
Don't be too concerned if you miss it, they are everywhere and common, As far as the block is concerned there is no difference between 2bbl & 4bbl and even the factory heads are same ( comp ratio is determined by piston dish etc ). Stick to engines from late sixties thru seventies ( C--- or D--- casting numbers ) anything beginning with E or F tends to have suffered from bean counters reducing amount of metal in castings plus later roller blocks can suffer from cracks in cam bearing tunnels which is a disaster waiting to happen.
 
#26
I am of the same mind as Cliff/Dave/Mike previously....
Went SB to help keep it compact, light and rev happy, but grew it to a 347 for a few extra cubes.
Scat Crank/rods
Trick Flow heads
Hyd Roller cam
ETC...
VERY happy with it. Sings real nice up to 6-6.5K.

Granted, when I bought my 40 it was an unfinished project which included the G50 with Kennedy stuff and Bundle of Snake's for a SB, but that is the direction I would of taken anyhow.
 
#27
Wow. I'd love to find a project that someone is selling. And like I said, I don't need this engine right now. I probably need it like I need a hole in the head. But I just can't pass it up if it's meant to be.
 
#28
Well I scored the 1970 351 Windosr for a great price. Supposedly 86K original miles and the engine's never been apart. By the amount of crud on the outside, I'm guessing that part is true. I'll run it by the power washer before tucking it away.

Now I just need a car to put it in...............
 
#30
Congrats, Phillip.

I thought the same as Jac, keep moisture out of it. If you leave the heads on perhaps take a look inside with one of those cheapo USB borescopes. Isn't OH one of the 'rust belt' states? Hopefully the cylinders were treated early on with some sort of corrosion preventative compound.
 
#31
Yeah, we're the rust belt. What we call restorable most call lost cause, basket case, parts cars.

I did power wash it. It was pretty thick with sludge on it. And then blew things out with the air compressor. One thing I did notice was that when I flipped the engine over on the stand (man that thing was heavy), oil started coming out of the top of the intake. So maybe someone poured some oil down the intake to help preserve things as it was always an engine that was going to be torn down and rebuilt.

I do plan on pulling the plugs and shooting some oil in there to help keep things from getting bad. I actually do have one of those cheapy bore scopes for my phone. So I'll take a peak in there and see what it looks like.
 
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#33
I found a 1970 351 at a great price. So I snagged it up. It's tucked away in the back of the garage for now. Now I just need a car to put around it.
 
#36
I've thought about dismantling it down to the shortblock. Then I could sell off the heads and the exhaust manifolds and have the engine for free.
 
#40
I chose a 438" tall deck Windsor stroker with CHI (Cleveland) heads, built by Mckeown Motorsports. I paid extra for a lightweight rotating assembly, AL flywheel, & solid roller valvetrain so it revs nicely. Lots of power (630HP) and broad powerband (idles at 900rpm).

I personally wanted a streetable car that has the power to require my total attention when I give the gas pedal a significant shove. My Mk1 weighs 2450 lbs and has 13" wide rear wheels, and this engine certainly gives me what I wanted.


I'm happy with my choice, but to each his own, as they say.


Jack
 
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