Aaron's SL-C build...
- Thread starter Aaron Hamilton
- Start date
If your using the AN fittings, I put antiseize on the threads of the fitting, seems they tighten up better for the pressure. I run brake pressure gauges also, you can see where the pressure is going on the front to the back with the balance bar in the Wilwood set up.
I created a new bulkhead panel layout. The new arrangement eliminates the interference to the expansion tank and opens up a good spot for the ECU. Moving the expansion tank to the passengers side allows an easy and short cut-in to the inlet heater hose. I was able to clear the fuel filler neck as well.
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Howard Jones
Supporter
More fuel tank photos.. The next couple of weeks a lot of things are going to happen on my SL-C. I'm getting ready to open a can of whip ass on it...
Get ready for the big "GO"....... I re-flared my clutch line and that's good to go. No clutch/brake leaks...
IMPORTANT TIPS:
1) The Earl's -3AN (male) ~ 3/8"-24 inverted flare (female) brake adaptors are the only ones with a brass insert seat for the inverted flare. The others don't and seem to be very easy to destroy the seat (possibly causing a leak).
2) Use a hot saw (cut-off wheel) when cutting your stainless tubing for a re-flare job. The compression type pipe cutter work hardens the material and makes it crack when flaring. Also "fully" de-burr the inside of the pipe. This makes clearance for the nipple of the die inside the pipe to make a good starting shape for your double flare. You should chamfer the outside edge and use lubricant when forming the initial shape. I found that making the initial flare shape is the most important. I ruined several flares and tried several techniques trying to make a "good" double flare in stainless.
Plans for the next several days:
Install fuel pump to the tank, install fuel tank drain. Install fuel tank to the SL-C (finalize the tank straps).
Weld up my exhaust tips, weld in new bungs for the expansion tank relocation, cut in a T into my heater hose for the expansion tank, final weld my radiator piping, weld in bungs for petcock drain valves for radiator piping, connect transmission shift cables, connect the electronic throttle pedal and a bit of wiring should do the trick..
:thumbsup:
Get ready for the big "GO"....... I re-flared my clutch line and that's good to go. No clutch/brake leaks...
IMPORTANT TIPS:
1) The Earl's -3AN (male) ~ 3/8"-24 inverted flare (female) brake adaptors are the only ones with a brass insert seat for the inverted flare. The others don't and seem to be very easy to destroy the seat (possibly causing a leak).
2) Use a hot saw (cut-off wheel) when cutting your stainless tubing for a re-flare job. The compression type pipe cutter work hardens the material and makes it crack when flaring. Also "fully" de-burr the inside of the pipe. This makes clearance for the nipple of the die inside the pipe to make a good starting shape for your double flare. You should chamfer the outside edge and use lubricant when forming the initial shape. I found that making the initial flare shape is the most important. I ruined several flares and tried several techniques trying to make a "good" double flare in stainless.
Plans for the next several days:
Install fuel pump to the tank, install fuel tank drain. Install fuel tank to the SL-C (finalize the tank straps).
Weld up my exhaust tips, weld in new bungs for the expansion tank relocation, cut in a T into my heater hose for the expansion tank, final weld my radiator piping, weld in bungs for petcock drain valves for radiator piping, connect transmission shift cables, connect the electronic throttle pedal and a bit of wiring should do the trick..
:thumbsup:
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