Alan's RCR40

Eddy McClements

Supporter
I had a lot of play in my steering and found that at each point that the steering shaft mates to the universal joints that there is play at the milled “valley” that captures the mounting bolt. As there are at least three of these points, the slop stacked up significantly. I added two set screws at each junction, 90 degrees to each other, to clamp against the steering shaft (see pic) and the problem is eliminated.
Hi Alan

Just a thought - take a look at the bottom right corner of page 37 of this catalogue:-

I think you have the same high-strength steering UJs, which need to be torqued to 70Nm (about 50lb-ft) to successfully clamp the spline.

Cheers,

Eddy
 

Alan Lofurno

GT40s Supporter
Just noticed your 40 is RHD Alan. How are you finding that driving?
Dave Miller
Dave,
the biggest issue is making right hand turns where the approach road is not perpendicular to the road that you are turning onto. If it is a full merge, like on a highway, my mirrors are fairly effective. If it is somewhere between a merge and perpendicular approach, the lack of window behind the “passenger” door window makes it very difficult to see out the rear 3/4 view and see approaching traffic. You need to plan ahead and try to straighten the approach as much as possible, and definitely need to loosen your harness upon approach. Other than that I am ok. I will say, it was a big decision when placing my order.
 

Brian Stewart
Hi Alan,

I have a little auxiliary mirror mounted on the inner window frame. It helps hugely in the situations you describe above.

Mirror.jpg
 

Neil

Supporter
I used a pair of mirrors that I removed from an F-86 Saberjet canopy to get an adequate rear & 3/4 view in my street Manta Mirage. They are curved, slightly convex metal mirrors. I mounted them to the inside of the windshield surround.
 

Attachments

Brian.
I believe that Chris reached out to you. The principles may be the same even with a linkage (although I don’t know your adjustment options). But essentially, I didn’t have my shift lever aligned to engage the reverse lockout correctly - the shifter was hitting the wall of the shift lever housing and not finding the lockout groove. The result was that I was essentially forcing it into reverse. We adjusted cables to align the shift lever for and aft to align with the slot in the gear lever housing for reverse.
1st is backwards towards the rear firewall isn't it?
I guess the thing to check here would be if first is still hard to get with the reverse lock out lever lifted up and the top plate removed.
if so the rod probably needs to be rotated slightly so the 1st is more vertical, moving 2nd and 3rd slightly off vertical and further away from the center of the gate. How much clearance do you have between 4th and 5th and the right side of the housing Brian?
has the bottom of the shift linkage casting been opened up?
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Location of 1st depends on the shifter set up. On the RCR's it's left and FWD, on others I believe it's left and AFT. The issue was that Alan wasn't getting lateral displacement due to how the reverse lockout is built into the shifter. We adjusted it so the R-1 selector would be easily engaged without the lockout tab knocking the shifter box housing in the cockpit and everything fell into place.

After connecting with him yesterday, I have had word back from Brian that similar adjustments (although made differently due to his original rod linkage set up) have corrected his problem and he's shifting well now too! Good news all around.

If anyone has any further questions, feel free to PM or start another thread in the gearbox subforum, but for now, back to Alan's adventure...
 
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