Battery placement

[Alex]

Putting the battery in the back makes me a bit leery - don't really like the idea of having it close to my fuel tank.

I've been contemplating putting it upfront, on the passenger side aluminum, underneath the steering rack.

Is there any reason why this would be a good/bad idea? If I did this i could put my ISIS fuses upfront as well.

NB: I'm not running a/c, so the only things upfront are the radiator and remote fill cylinders.

 

[Will Campbell]

If you are not running AC, you could do what I am doing, which is to place the battery, ISIS master cell and front powercell (and some other things) where the AC evap would normally be, behind the rad. RCR makes a great FG shield for this, or you could fab one up yourself if needed.

This approach is better for weight distribution, and uses the space behind the rad that would otherwise be wasted.

 

[Dave]

You also need to think about if you have a sway bar or not as that might be in the way. I think Howard's build thread has pics of it somewhere for reference.

 

[Alex]

If you are not running AC, you could do what I am doing, which is to place the battery, ISIS master cell and front powercell (and some other things) where the AC evap would normally be, behind the rad. RCR makes a great FG shield for this, or you could fab one up yourself if needed.

This approach is better for weight distribution, and uses the space behind the rad that would otherwise be wasted.

That's where I'm leaning towards right now.

My only concern is that the heat pipe(s) for the radiator might get kind of close to it since I don't know what the spacing will look like?

BTW, why would I want to use a fg shield, like the one that covers the a/c? To protect the components from water?

You also need to think about if you have a sway bar or not as that might be in the way. I think Howard's build thread has pics of it somewhere for reference.

No sway bar - I was studying Howard's thread intently before, wondering WTF that black bar was ...... then it hit me

 

[Will Campbell]

That's where I'm leaning towards right now.

My only concern is that the heat pipe(s) for the radiator might get kind of close to it since I don't know what the spacing will look like?

BTW, why would I want to use a fg shield, like the one that covers the a/c? To protect the components from water?




No sway bar - I was studying Howard's thread intently before, wondering WTF that black bar was ...... then it hit me

The sway bar won't have to be in the way; you can notch the FG if needed. And you have plenty of room to run the coolant tubes outside as well.

The FG piece hides some of the things in that area and cleans up the look, as well as isolating them from the rad blast and the subsequent heat. It also serves to direct air from the rad to the vent, and keeps water off these components as well.

 

[Timg47]

plenty of room on the pass side in the footwell. mine is next to the fuel cell. really no big deal doing that.

 

[Alex]

plenty of room on the pass side in the footwell. mine is next to the fuel cell. really no big deal doing that.

accidental sparks + close to fuel tank = boom?

 

[Paul Osborn]

plenty of room on the pass side in the footwell. mine is next to the fuel cell. really no big deal doing that.

It's just that the margin for error goes down when the source of gas fumes (which dissipate as some exponent of the distance from the source) is co-located with the source of sparks.

 

[Alex]

Chance of boom makes Alex very sad

It's funny - having the fear of god put into you about accidents/fires/etc... is a good thing because it forces you to examine every possible situation and outcome, yet at the same time it causes inaction because you can come up with so many problems regardless of where you look.

For example, put the battery in the front, what happens if the radiator springs a leak and starts spewing anti-freeze all over the battery. :uneasy:

Still, the front looks like it's winning because I can put the battery upfront, then my ISIS mega-fuses and a power cell tied together, like this idea I found on google

 

[TimB]

Chance of boom makes Alex very sad

For example, put the battery in the front, what happens if the radiator springs a leak and starts spewing anti-freeze all over the battery. :uneasy:

Answer.....it would get wet. I would be far more worried about fluid on the ISIS controller

 

[EGLITOM]

Sorry gents to much new technology for me ( this isis thing)
I prefer to swap a relais if something don´t work ( or change a fuse and than i´m running again. if your wring is done correctly thats all to it. If a wire breaks the isis will not work either. Especially if you erun without AC this cars justrequire a very basic wire loom. Not complicated at all but just easier to maintain.
I would place the battery as far as possible to the front , If space is tight, think about two smaller ones switched parallel.

Tom

 

[Alex]

Sorry gents to much new technology for me ( this isis thing)
I prefer to swap a relais if something don´t work ( or change a fuse and than i´m running again. if your wring is done correctly thats all to it. If a wire breaks the isis will not work either. Especially if you erun without AC this cars justrequire a very basic wire loom. Not complicated at all but just easier to maintain.
I would place the battery as far as possible to the front , If space is tight, think about two smaller ones switched parallel.

Tom

Really? I much prefer to run around with a chicken without its head going 'oh crap oh crap oh crap oh crap oh crap....can I replace this part at autozone? no.....oh crap oh cra oh crap '

Answer.....it would get wet. I would be far more worried about fluid on the ISIS controller

ISIS is rated for submersion, so getting liquid on it isn't an issue

 

[marc]

FYI in the drag racing world they have the batteries typically in the rear next to the tanks and axles. the difference is your install would look like a NASA design next to some of the rolling bombs I've seen.

 

[EGLITOM]

Really? I much prefer to run around with a chicken without its head going 'oh crap oh crap oh crap oh crap oh crap....can I replace this part at autozone? no.....oh crap oh cra oh crap '

up to you

but in my automotive experience (now allmost 30 years) i just had to replace a relais once and fuses just if something was wired wrong or a component shortened out ( very rare as well).

Nevertheless i would be interessted in your experience with the isis controller.

TOM

 

[Ron Earp]

but in my automotive experience (now allmost 30 years) i just had to replace a relais once and fuses just if something was wired wrong or a component shortened out ( very rare as well).

I'm with you Tom.

Or even better yet, use circuit breakers.

ISIS seems a bit complex for what really is a simple problem.

 

[Jack]

+1 Ron!

 

[Alex]

up to you

but in my automotive experience (now allmost 30 years) i just had to replace a relais once and fuses just if something was wired wrong or a component shortened out ( very rare as well).

Nevertheless i would be interessted in your experience with the isis controller.

TOM

My cobra's been using the ISIS precedessor (I2 1+1million relay) for about 2yrs now and has been rock solid. Time will tell though.

ISIS seems a bit complex for what really is a simple problem.

ISIS is really meant for those who want to do complex, sexy electrical stuff. However, it's still a great help to those who just want a basic wiring setup.

For example:

Fuel pump wiring - 1 wire from a powercell to the fuel pump; ground fuel pump. That's it. No relays or anything.

Push-start button - Wire from powercell to starter. Then wire (on corresponding circuit) from mastercell to your push-button start. Ground other side of push button. Done.

Also very low voltage so risk of dash fires is next to nil.

All in all, a very slick package that's useful if you're like me an just want a basic wiring setup, or if you want a super complex one.

 

[Randy V]

My cobra's been using the ISIS precedessor (I2 1+1million relay) for about 2yrs now and has been rock solid. Time will tell though.



ISIS is really meant for those who want to do complex, sexy electrical stuff. However, it's still a great help to those who just want a basic wiring setup.

For example:

Fuel pump wiring - 1 wire from a powercell to the fuel pump; ground fuel pump. That's it. No relays or anything.

Push-start button - Wire from powercell to starter. Then wire (on corresponding circuit) from mastercell to your push-button start. Ground other side of push button. Done.

Also very low voltage so risk of dash fires is next to nil.

All in all, a very slick package that's useful if you're like me an just want a basic wiring setup, or if you want a super complex one.

Let's level the playing field out here a little by understanding what we're dealing with....

Low Voltage - yes, pretty much anything you want to wire (in a car) will be 12v.

Current, however, is another story...

You say you don't need a relay for a number of things - which to me says that the relays (or high current transistors) are built into the system. If not - then you're talking about switching processes that are much higher current than with relays.

I am presuming that all circuits are protected with either fuses or circuit breakers.

So - really - the advantage you have in purchasing a system like this is that the wiring of relays has been done for you and integrated into the system. This gives the appearance of simplicity, but under the covers, the complexity is still there and the system is no more or less bullet-proof than a system of discreet components.

For that advantage - you trade money.

 

[Ron Earp]

For example:

Fuel pump wiring - 1 wire from a powercell to the fuel pump; ground fuel pump. That's it. No relays or anything

I do the same - power feed into panel, through breaker and switch, direct to pump. I use wire with a capacity of double the current needed, well insulated with sheath. Ground pump, one wire connect, nothing to fail.

But, that is just me - I don't like relays and don't use them when I can get away with it. I know many on this forum will have trouble with that but that is ok, a forum is a great place for discussion.

I think Randy has a good summary - you trade one thing for another. Old fashion relays for solid state switching. All I know is at the places I race at available auto parts are very basic so I keep my car simplistic too.

With that battery location just put it in an aluminum box and mount it wherever you like. I don't know about your RCR chassis but mine has a fantastic battery box located in the right rear sill. Good location for weight distribution too.

 

[Alex]

Let's level the playing field out here a little by understanding what we're dealing with....

Low Voltage - yes, pretty much anything you want to wire (in a car) will be 12v.

Current, however, is another story...

You say you don't need a relay for a number of things - which to me says that the relays (or high current transistors) are built into the system. If not - then you're talking about switching processes that are much higher current than with relays.

I am presuming that all circuits are protected with either fuses or circuit breakers.

So - really - the advantage you have in purchasing a system like this is that the wiring of relays has been done for you and integrated into the system. This gives the appearance of simplicity, but under the covers, the complexity is still there and the system is no more or less bullet-proof than a system of discreet components.

For that advantage - you trade money.

Every circuit is fused, and from my understanding it uses solid state MOSFETs to switch the current.