BLWNGT40 build
- Thread starter Blwngt40
- Start date
Been a while once again, the last two days I was able to work a bit on the B pillars in between customer calls. Not the prettiest welds I have done, but I gave up on trying to make them perfect since they were just going to be blended away anyhow. More blending to do, but I am calling it for today.
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The width of the door infront of the side plexiglass that ajoins the A-pillars. Would anyone be willing to measure theirs? Mine are both different measurements and taper to again both vary different measurements to the too of the door, my my adjustments of the doors to make them settle correctly it appears I will need to add about 5/8 of an inch of material to the tops to make it good. I have not removed any material yet, this is how AK set them.
Mine at the bottoms.
Mine at the bottoms.
Bart Dirkx
Supporter
Looks really good. May I ask where you are going to put your parking brake?
I have a 1965 style Mustang pull brake handle I am using under the dash.
Bart Dirkx
Supporter
Nice. Will you connect that to the brake lever in the pedal box or to the rear brakes?
To pass Ohio "self assembled vehicles" code the park brake had to be independent of the regular braking system. So it will be to the rear.
Bart Dirkx
Supporter
Let me know how you do this. I like the tunnel setup as in the original GT40 with the parking brake under the dash. I currently have a cable operated parking brake connected to my rear brake calipers. Could not think of an easy way to do this from under the dash.
As of right now, I plan on routing the two park brake cables along the side tubs next to the fuel tanks, have 2 excentric pulleys for each cable, that goes to a single that will go to another pulley to attach to the park brake handle.
Crude drawing below.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Interesting.
Is there a reason why you do not run a single cable to the rear of the car before splitting for left and right?
Is there a reason why you do not run a single cable to the rear of the car before splitting for left and right?
cant make out which bit your mraasuring.
can you do some pictures with the measure but from further away so can see where you are actually measuring ?
Jerry
I cannot run one straight down the middle.
Way to many things coming out of the center tunnel area and lots of accessories drive pulley things and drysump pulleys in the way. I can't use the bar type thing that AK/SGT used, engine is too low.
I could run one to the rear only on one side, still would have to come up with a method of pulling two balanced from that side. But as with all the non standard changes I have and are doing. Everything is a balance of compromise of design and fitment.
I have a set of cables I got from summit for really cheap and if i can run them all the way to the lever I will have the balance bar there and only an extension cable to the lever. Everything is an idea until completed but will be adjusted and made to work correctly as needed.
At the moment I am working on fitting the metal spider. This is not to difficult, but the frame from AK is different heights from the left and right side that the dash sets on and door hindes mount by almost half and inch. So everything at the front is setting on an cant. I am working up the courage to do what I know I need to do and fix it. Just cutting and lowering one side and all the supports from left to right. I would rather not shim and fill that long of a distance.
To answer why I got a metal spider. The fiberglass one I got from AK arrived dilaminated at the inner and outer seams at about 70% of every edge and had a big warp in the that caused an hump towards the right side. Oddly Jerrys had the same hump but wasn' separating. (You can see a lot of adjustments he had to make to fit) But ask him privately about all the compromises he had to make to make the body work. Every time I could correct one side it misaligned the other front to rear and side to side. If you tried to tighten it up so it wouldn't flex, you couldn't make adjustments to try and make it fit. You could never open and door because if you did you couldn't close it from how much the body would shift. And yes, there was conversations with AK on the matter.
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Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Douglas, makes more sense to me now
Ian
Ian
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Douglas
Perhaps think about the original Ford Anglia 307e van rear brake arrangement ?.
This involves two cables via one equaliser to a single rod pull up your hand brake lever.
The Equaliser shoe is part number 100E-2119-B
Attachments
This is kinda what I was also thinking of that in one of the two methods I mentioned. I do also have a standard park brake handle. Leaving options open for when I get to that point, Im sure the air conditioning will put curve balls everywhere under the dash.
While doing the good fun adjustments and alignments to continue to weld up the roof I was having issues with the door area under the front clip behind the fuel filler area. So I ended up cutting them off the same distance using vertical line at the end of the front clip and a reference. I made a paper template of that area and so far it seems to be the only thing some what symmetrical. Everything else has huge 3/4 inch to 1 inch differences in thickness, bends, angles, etc.
Check out this difference. Not as big as the others but it was stopping me from being able to even alignish the outter skins.
Check out this difference. Not as big as the others but it was stopping me from being able to even alignish the outter skins.
I faced had a similar issue on my V-8 Europa project, getting the parking brake cabling to both rear wheels. I ultimately settled on just one cable to one rear brake drum. This holds the car just fine. Maybe your required parking brake regulation is performance based, holds the car when on a certain grade?
That is known as a "tool balancer".
Looks like a Harbor Freight gantry crane with a hoist and a sling to me.
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