Pleased to report that after some experimentation with the push rod length I now have a clutch that releases.
CANAMSA - SA stratch build
- Thread starter Fred W B
- Start date
And made some progress in other areas.
The gear shift parts have been completed. Final parts on the left, development parts on the right.
The gear shift parts have been completed. Final parts on the left, development parts on the right.
And I have the dash out again to fit label plates I had made for the switches and warning lights. I want the feel of the car to be that it could have been built in the 60s so went with etched plates.
Also etched labels for the relays and had a decal printed for the fuse box cover.
Also etched labels for the relays and had a decal printed for the fuse box cover.
Andrew Robertson
Supporter
very close to time for NOISE!!
Fitted the gear change linkage and connected the cables. All gears seem to engage nicely but we won't know for sure until the car drives.
This is what I did to have an adjustable hard stop for the clutch pedal.
Just to make a change from endless pictures of my car project, this week I was privileged to drive several shake down laps in this very nicely built YB engined Escort MK 1.
Last Sunday a friend came round to give me a hand with commissioning the liquid systems. The cooling system took 17.5 Liters to fill. Testing the electric water pumps you can hear them working hard to move the coolant along the length of the car.
I had packed the oil pump with Vaseline and filled the oil filter with oil so it just took a while turning the engine over on the starter motor with the plugs out for the oil pump to prime and build pressure.
After some messing about with priming the carb and adding a jump battery as the oil priming cranking had run down the on-board battery this happened.
Although I don't look it in the video I am very happy to finally have the engine running. We let it run up to temperature, the automatic fan kicked in at about 85 degrees on the gauge and the temp came back down.
Oil pressure looks good. Engine even settled into a nice idle straight away. Considering I have no idea of the pedigree of this engine that's a result. Even the alternator started charging straight away and I never so much as looked at that beyond remounting it.
Only proper snag is a small leak from a pinhole in a weld on the swirl pot so I'll need to fix that.
I had packed the oil pump with Vaseline and filled the oil filter with oil so it just took a while turning the engine over on the starter motor with the plugs out for the oil pump to prime and build pressure.
After some messing about with priming the carb and adding a jump battery as the oil priming cranking had run down the on-board battery this happened.
Although I don't look it in the video I am very happy to finally have the engine running. We let it run up to temperature, the automatic fan kicked in at about 85 degrees on the gauge and the temp came back down.
Oil pressure looks good. Engine even settled into a nice idle straight away. Considering I have no idea of the pedigree of this engine that's a result. Even the alternator started charging straight away and I never so much as looked at that beyond remounting it.
Only proper snag is a small leak from a pinhole in a weld on the swirl pot so I'll need to fix that.
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Chris Kouba
Supporter
Congrats! That's got to be awfully satisfying.
Neil
Supporter
Zoom?Last Sunday a friend came round to give me a hand with commissioning the liquid systems. The cooling system took 17.5 Liters to fill. Testing the electric water pumps you can hear them working hard to move the coolant along the length of the car.
I had packed the oil pump with Vaseline and filled the oil filter with oil so it just took a while turning the engine over on the starter motor with the plugs out for the oil pump to prime and build pressure.
After some messing about with priming the carb and adding a jump battery as the oil priming cranking had run down the on-board battery this happened.
Although I don't look it in the video I am very happy to finally have the engine running. We let it run up to temperature, the automatic fan kicked in at about 85 degrees on the gauge and the temp came back down.
Oil pressure looks good. Engine even settled into a nice idle straight away. Considering I have no idea of the pedigree of this engine that's a result. Even the alternator started charging straight away and I never so much as looked at that beyond remounting it.
Only proper snag is a small leak from a pinhole in a weld on the swirl pot so I'll need to fix that.
At the moment it's a spare switch but I had to call it something. Once I try to get the car toad legal, I may use the position for the emergency 4 way flasher switch. In South Africa our minor national roads are mostly single lane per direction, but with wide tarred shoulders demarcated by a yellow line. Often a slower vehicle will move over the yellow line to let a faster car past. It is customary here to say thanks by momentarily activating the 4 way flashers after you have passed. Hence, we will use the switch when we "zoom" past slower traffic.
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I've now got the rear suspension fitted.
Here you see the rear wishbones. The mass of these parts with all the spherical joints adds up to 6.48 kg (14.3 lbs). The lower rear tie bars have LH and RH threads to enable easy toe adjustment.
The rear uprights are fabricated around the bearing housings cut out of the front struts from the Audi that donated the transaxle. In these old pictures you can see the various parts and how the upright fits in the wheel. Once these were welded up it turned out to be a very difficult job to fit the bearings as the housings had shrunk. In the end a helpful machinist made a fixture to true the bores in a large lathe before press fitting the bearings. I had previously drilled the hubs to convert to Ford PCD and studs. If I did this again, I would use a bolt on spindle from something.
Here you see the rear wishbones. The mass of these parts with all the spherical joints adds up to 6.48 kg (14.3 lbs). The lower rear tie bars have LH and RH threads to enable easy toe adjustment.
The rear uprights are fabricated around the bearing housings cut out of the front struts from the Audi that donated the transaxle. In these old pictures you can see the various parts and how the upright fits in the wheel. Once these were welded up it turned out to be a very difficult job to fit the bearings as the housings had shrunk. In the end a helpful machinist made a fixture to true the bores in a large lathe before press fitting the bearings. I had previously drilled the hubs to convert to Ford PCD and studs. If I did this again, I would use a bolt on spindle from something.
Complete assembly. The rear brakes are Golf MK2 calipers, with discs from a mystery doner on a machined bell. The rear uprights with the discs weigh 7.30 kg (16 lbs) each. The calipers are 3.6 kg (8 lbs) each.
The top attachment uses the same camber adjustment device as on the front, but with the addition of a connection to drive the rear antiroll bar.
You can see the red painted antiroll bar here. It looks like it was bent to suit but I used the center section of a BMW rear bar that had those bends in it already. I have made the rear and front anti roll bars the same width so that bars of different rates can interchange. Bar diameters / rates are just a guess at this stage.
The drive shafts are also from the transaxle doner Audi which I had shortened to suit and rebuilt by a professional shop. They weigh 7 kgs (15.4 lbs) each .
You can see the red painted antiroll bar here. It looks like it was bent to suit but I used the center section of a BMW rear bar that had those bends in it already. I have made the rear and front anti roll bars the same width so that bars of different rates can interchange. Bar diameters / rates are just a guess at this stage.
The drive shafts are also from the transaxle doner Audi which I had shortened to suit and rebuilt by a professional shop. They weigh 7 kgs (15.4 lbs) each .
