Hi Ed don't cut panel around plate just fit panel over the top you will need to drill through panel and tap plate for door catch after body fit.
Regards Mick.
Regards Mick.
Cheshire SGT build
- Thread starter Eddw5493
- Start date
thanks i had almost committed haha lucky i didnt have the time
thanks you im happy how its turning out no big mess ups yet thankfully
Hi everyone bit of an update got myself a christmas present and picked up some more bits to fit forgot the bottom suspension mounts though but Mick is kindly going to send them out when he was back in work so should be able to test fit that soon
Have fitted a few more panels though and cleaned out the suspension mounting points and test fitted the front
Not many more panels to go
hi guys bit of an update picked up my bodywork and a few more goodies from SGT before all the virus stuff kicked off so have a bit to keep me busy have been attempting to fit up the body though it seems to be harder than I thought and I wasn't expecting it to be easy
So I have a bit of a question about fitment though got the gaps pretty good each side and measureing from body the centre section in all square but when I measure at the back the wheel arches are about 1cm out each side and where the clip mounts to the frame it's miles off do you get the back strait and not worry about the centre section other than getting the panel gaps good ? Just struggling to get it to fit up well
Thanks in advance
Hi Ed, I went to Micks to get the body fitted, made life much easier. The rear clips bolt through the glass fiber panel with four bolts with large washers, Mick used different thickness of spacers to get the correct fitting of the rear deck before fitting. Pictures attached
Attachments
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Thanks for the help might have a go as I have a bit off time on my hands and it's a long way from Cheshire to Southampton but that really helpful will save me a lot of messing about trying to figure it out haha
Mike Pass
Supporter
Yep. Fitting the body is not easy.
The spider needs to be bolted down solidly at all four corners otherwise it will keep moving. The spiders are pretty floppy and can change shape if stored unsupported. If you just clamp it every little nudge will move it. You really need to fit some suspension and ensure that it is set at the same distance from the car centreline on both sides.These can then be used as reference points for centring the clips. Having the wheels fitted makes it much easier. Once the spider is bolted down solidly fit the front clip so it fits well to the spider and is the correct height at the front and rest it on a box with suitable packing. Then make up a piece of string with a weight on the end so it hangs vertically. set the string to the edge of the wheel arch and see where this plumb line meets the wheel or the the suspension. If the wheel arch is centred then the distance from the plumb line to the wheel or suspension will be the same on both sides. If it is not then the front of the spider is at an angle. remove the bolts at the front of the spider and slot the holes to alter the angle angle of the front of the spider and rebolt down in the new position. Replace the front clip and recheck that it is centred using the plumb line method. Repeat until the clip is centred. Check that the screen still fits OK.
Now place the rear clip on the car and adjust until it is a good fit to the rear of the spider and the correct height and rest it on a box with packers. Using the plumb lines check the centring of the rear clip by measuring the distance from the plumb line to the wheel or suspension on both sides. If it is the same then all is well. if it is different then unbolt the rear of the spider and slot the holes and rebolt down. repeat the plumb line process until the rear clip fits well t the spider and is centred with respect to the wheel or suspension ( and hence to the car centreline).
Mark or pin the final position of the spider so if it is removed it can be put back in exactly the same place.
Once the spider is correctly located and the clips placed and centred you can grovel underneath to locate the correct positions of the front pivot bar and the rear "parrots beaks". The parrots beaks can be placed in the bobbins and then the panel can be drilled for the bolts. The tubular spacers can then be made the correct length and then the parrots beaks cam her bolted to the panel.
Al this is much easier with one or two patient assistance who are willing to act as human clamps! I would assist having done a couple of them but as I am ancient I am locked away from Mr virus.
I will send you my mobile no. via email if you want me to explain a bit more.
Cheers
Mike
The spider needs to be bolted down solidly at all four corners otherwise it will keep moving. The spiders are pretty floppy and can change shape if stored unsupported. If you just clamp it every little nudge will move it. You really need to fit some suspension and ensure that it is set at the same distance from the car centreline on both sides.These can then be used as reference points for centring the clips. Having the wheels fitted makes it much easier. Once the spider is bolted down solidly fit the front clip so it fits well to the spider and is the correct height at the front and rest it on a box with suitable packing. Then make up a piece of string with a weight on the end so it hangs vertically. set the string to the edge of the wheel arch and see where this plumb line meets the wheel or the the suspension. If the wheel arch is centred then the distance from the plumb line to the wheel or suspension will be the same on both sides. If it is not then the front of the spider is at an angle. remove the bolts at the front of the spider and slot the holes to alter the angle angle of the front of the spider and rebolt down in the new position. Replace the front clip and recheck that it is centred using the plumb line method. Repeat until the clip is centred. Check that the screen still fits OK.
Now place the rear clip on the car and adjust until it is a good fit to the rear of the spider and the correct height and rest it on a box with packers. Using the plumb lines check the centring of the rear clip by measuring the distance from the plumb line to the wheel or suspension on both sides. If it is the same then all is well. if it is different then unbolt the rear of the spider and slot the holes and rebolt down. repeat the plumb line process until the rear clip fits well t the spider and is centred with respect to the wheel or suspension ( and hence to the car centreline).
Mark or pin the final position of the spider so if it is removed it can be put back in exactly the same place.
Once the spider is correctly located and the clips placed and centred you can grovel underneath to locate the correct positions of the front pivot bar and the rear "parrots beaks". The parrots beaks can be placed in the bobbins and then the panel can be drilled for the bolts. The tubular spacers can then be made the correct length and then the parrots beaks cam her bolted to the panel.
Al this is much easier with one or two patient assistance who are willing to act as human clamps! I would assist having done a couple of them but as I am ancient I am locked away from Mr virus.
I will send you my mobile no. via email if you want me to explain a bit more.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks for the help have already mounted the rear clip and the back of the centre section just be taking measurements but sounds like your method would have been a better idea if I'm honest hopefully I have got it right
Ed McClements
Supporter
Yebbut...young at heart, right Mike? I know you've posted this detailed method previously, and helped other builders carry it out on several occasions. If I ever reach this stage, and you fancy free B&B and unlimited wine at the top of north Lancashire, let me know!!
Ed Iv fitted my Spyder the same way as you so your not alone. Iv chosen to get the Spyder and screen fitting right and ill get the rest to fit one way or anotherThanks for the help have already mounted the rear clip and the back of the centre section just be taking measurements but sounds like your method would have been a better idea if I'm honest hopefully I have got it right
Hi everyone have been really lazy posting on here I have been posting quite a bit on instagram if anyone wants to follow along on there it's @gt40build
I have got the engine from engine data analysis (EDA) its a 302 stoked to 347 and the quaife qbe62g (zfq) after about a year wait as they were making some improvements so couldn't get hold of one for a long while and then have made the exhaust system stainless to the back of collectors and titanium from the v bands back will go into a bit more detail when posting the pics
I have got the engine from engine data analysis (EDA) its a 302 stoked to 347 and the quaife qbe62g (zfq) after about a year wait as they were making some improvements so couldn't get hold of one for a long while and then have made the exhaust system stainless to the back of collectors and titanium from the v bands back will go into a bit more detail when posting the pics
Next up I ordered an ITB set up from EFI hardware in Australia it seems like a really nicely made setup the manifold itself I got ceramic coated in black, also got a replacement for the distributor that has a sensor for detecting the cam position should be fixed to the crank position anyway but most ecus want to see both signals and need somthing there to drive the oil pump shaft anyway
