Cheshire SGT build

Shaun

Supporter
Got mine of e-Bay, in bags of 100 but I did drill a lot of rivets as Morten mentioned for that period sort of aircraft look.
Band saw I would second, Paul recommended that to me as well after I had started and I really wish I had one right at the start, I got a "Metabo BAS 261 240v Precision Band Saw" with a fine blade from FFX and am really happy with it.
 
Hi, I used closed 4mm rivets, wish I’d used smaller 3.2mm rivets with closer spacing for more period look than what I ended up with on my SGTs.
I’ve left out fitting a few panels in the front by pedalbox. Should’ve waited with many more panels as they are in the way trying to route the loom, tubing etc.
Morten
Thanks I will weigh up which are the best to leave off for now
 
Got mine of e-Bay, in bags of 100 but I did drill a lot of rivets as Morten mentioned for that period sort of aircraft look.
Band saw I would second, Paul recommended that to me as well after I had started and I really wish I had one right at the start, I got a "Metabo BAS 261 240v Precision Band Saw" with a fine blade from FFX and am really happy with it.
Thanks I need to order a suitable blade but have a good machine luckily
 

Neil

Supporter
Hi Brian I will look into it not familiar with chromate but will do a bit or research thanks for the tip
ED, the chromate conversion process (passivation) makes a good base for paint on aluminum. Two commercial products are "Alodine" and "Iridite".
 

Neil

Supporter
Thanks for the advice I am planning on fitting everything up and getting it right before painting as for clecos I haven't ordered any yet but will get some ordered do you know a good place to buy them from ?
Thank you
You can never have too many Clecos. It helps to have some in different sizes, too- 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", and a few 3/32" for labels, etc. Cylindrical Clecos allow a very tight pull-up between panels. Here are a few photos of cylindrical and conventional spring Clecos. Try e-bay, sometimes you can find good deals.
 

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You can never have too many Clecos. It helps to have some in different sizes, too- 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", and a few 3/32" for labels, etc. Cylindrical Clecos allow a very tight pull-up between panels. Here are a few photos of cylindrical and conventional spring Clecos. Try e-bay, sometimes you can find good deals.
Thanks I will have a look at the different types
 
Hi everyone not a massive update but have got a bit done after trying a few paints none of them seemed to give a strong enough Finnish so have decided im going to get all the panels powder coated once i have got them all fitted up properly so had the floor done black satin so i could rivet it and flip the chassis and it looks great.
Have started to fit up some of the panels as well just done the interior footwells and the drivers side wheel well for now panels needed a bit of fettleing to get a nice fit but the panels have been fitting well up to now the one in the pedal area is the only one i have had to use the band saw on the rest have just been fitted up with a file and the bench sander really happy how they have turned out at the moment just waiting for my first big f**k up haha
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Hi guys another little update held up on the font now as it looks like im missing 2 tiny pieces which is a bit annoying but luckily got plenty more panels to do at the rear haha
(missing bits shown below)

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also a quick question is there a reason the inner front end section isn't attached strait to the frame and attached like this instead (pic below) there seems to be enough material on the panels to attach strait to the frame at the front am i missing something?
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Looking great Ed, I really like the folded rolled top to the center tunnel.

Paul recommended that to me as well after I had started and I really wish I had one right at the start, I got a "Metabo BAS 261 240v Precision Band Saw" with a fine blade from FFX and am really happy with it.
what size and thickness is the blade that you ended up going with?
I have a copy of one of these
I can flip the head up so that its vertical and could probably adapt a table to it. Just wondering if it would be worth doing. I think the blade I have on it at the moment is a bi metal blade with 13 teeth per cm. the blade is only 13mm high. the guide wont go very close together, the minimum spacing between the blade rollers still leaves a gap of around 200mm so it would need a few modifications if I was going to use it as a vertical bandsaw a lot.
 

Eddy McClements

Supporter
also a quick question is there a reason the inner front end section isn't attached strait to the frame and attached like this instead (pic below) there seems to be enough material on the panels to attach strait to the frame at the front am i missing something?
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Hi Ed

Mine are attached directly to the frame in that location (OK - clecos only at the moment, but planning on rivetting them permanently this weekend)



Cheers,

Ed
 
It’s a good question and I really don’t know the answer? I just went as per the design and used the angle bits so my panels end short, can’t see any real reason though???

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Hi Ed

Mine are attached directly to the frame in that location (OK - clecos only at the moment, but planning on rivetting them permanently this weekend)



Cheers,

Ed
 
No it’s to fit the rad in .no sharp edges there to catch ,I am at Preston you are always more than welcome to pop in

regards mark
 

Morten

Mortified GT Asylum
Supporter
Perhaps this gives you an idea... thus moving the rad just alittle more forward and getting more room to run the AC hoses. Pic from SGT in their workshop.

The other old pics are from one of my SGT’s

I hardmounted mine on inside chassisrail with alu panel all the way, drilled out the rivetheads where the rad came.

In hindsight, I will alter my fixing onto brackets and rubber mount the radiator on outside vertical rail to reduce the risk of any core issues in the future.

Good luck

Morten
 

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Looking great Ed, I really like the folded rolled top to the center tunnel.



what size and thickness is the blade that you ended up going with?
I have a copy of one of these
I can flip the head up so that its vertical and could probably adapt a table to it. Just wondering if it would be worth doing. I think the blade I have on it at the moment is a bi metal blade with 13 teeth per cm. the blade is only 13mm high. the guide wont go very close together, the minimum spacing between the blade rollers still leaves a gap of around 200mm so it would need a few modifications if I was going to use it as a vertical bandsaw a lot.
Hi im on a big floor standing bandsaw that i had and used the smallest tpi blade that came with it im pretty sure its 18TPI and seems to be cutting fine but will check for you when im back at home :) but im sure 13 thread per cm would be better should cut well
 
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