chevy 305 questions

Just a couple of quick questions,

Firstly I would like to run using electric water pumps, can I get rid of the original water pump, or should I keep it? Also, if I can get rid of the pump, could I then combine my bottom pulley with the harmonic balancer? it would be handy if I could loose a couple of inches of the front of the engine.

Lastley, would it be a good idea to paint the whole engine and valve covers in satin black? I was thinking of detailing it with stainless fastners against satin black paint

Many thanks
 
Keep the standard water pump - use a Chevy 'short' pump instead of the 'long' verson. You will need only 1 belt to run the pump and alternator. That allows you to also use only 1 pulley from the harmonic balancer as well - keeping the engine short.
 

Randy V

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I believe he mentioned in another thread that the 305 was only temporary and that a 350 was in his future...

The 305 can be made to perform though... Mine was just under 400 HP when I was running in the SCCA's American Sedan class. 600 Holley DP, .480 lift rule, small stock heads, flat-top pistons, headers..

Yes - you can run a remote system if you like. Check out my build site. While it's for a Ford, the same process could be used..
 
thanks guys, yes the 305 wasn't my first choice but one came up local, very cheap, already fitted with a Holley carb on an Edelbrock manifold, so I figured I could use it to get the project running, then at a later date, when funds allow, I can upgrade to a 350 and swap the parts onto the new engine, along with headers and clutch etc,

thanks again
 
I ran a twin turbo 454BBC in my last race car using twin davies craig electric water pumps. Completely ditched the factory water pump and fed one pump into each bank using flanges where the OEM pump had bolted on. Used a short pulley on the front of the harmonic balancer to drive alt and PS pump. Best thing I ever did - in conjunction with a decent set of thermo-switched fans, could cool the thing down while it was idling or stuck in pit lane after a race, had more room for accessories (and in my case turbo plumbing). It was especially useful on tarmac rally events where we would be up it for 20-40kms and then have to sit idling in a queue at the timing caravan straight after a stage with no cool-down running. On a dedicated race car they can be set to run full bore on a straight switch, using a basic washer-style restrictor with about a 1 inch hole in it in place of a thermostat to build just a slight pressure diff across the thermo housing. On a dual purpose vehicle it's probably best to add in a PWM speed control unit to slow them down when you're out cruising on the open road or you will run cold.

Cheers, Andrew
 
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