Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
Bill Kearley
Supporter
Nice car, mines been on the road for 20 years and has 6500 miles
Thanks. That is an old pic. Ryan has done a lot more detailing since then. This week we are replacing the Edelbrock intake manifold with an original style "COBRA" one. Fun holiday season projects!
Follow the progress on Facebook and at Instagram @constant_speed37
Suspension alignment
Ryan’s visit over the Memorial Day weekend was a great time to take a break from the Jaguar and do some tuning on the GT. Our focus was on the suspension and alignment. We invested in some tools to hopefully improve the accuracy of the process including a Longacre caster / camber gauge (Summit LNG78250), Quick Trick Alignment Plates, (Summit QTA60004) and a Tenhulzen Automotive toe plates (Summit TNH2200). All worked well.
Safety washers were added to the steering arms. This should have been done a dozen years ago.
The castor was measured at 7 degrees – the maximum possible based on the lower control arm being fully forward and the upper being fully aft. We decided to reduce this a bit by relocating the upper control arms forward a couple of washer widths, resulting in about 5 degrees of castor. With this change the camber was a negative ¾ degree.
The Longacre caster/camber gauge makes measuring camber a breeze. Measuring caster was a bit of a challenge since the turning radius of the GT cannot reach a full twenty degrees in both directions, so using a digital level proved easier.
Front toe was measured with the Tenhulzen toe plates. It worked well and gave more precise measurements than the string method previously used. We were able to set the front at a negative 1/16”. Only a fraction of a turn of the adjuster makes noticeable differences. The front wheels were placed on the Quick Trick Alignment Plates which worked very well.
We checked the rear toe. To our surprise it was at a negative 1/16” based on the last time we had set it up using the string technique. Given the complexity of adjusting the rear toe, we left it alone.
For this exercise we did not set up the parallel lines needed to assure the rear suspension was properly aligned. So this was not a complete and proper alignment, but for now we are satisfied with the results.
A couple of long drives confirmed a slight but noticeable improvement. The bit of vagueness on center is gone and the steering wheel is now perfectly centered while driving a straight line.
Ryan’s visit over the Memorial Day weekend was a great time to take a break from the Jaguar and do some tuning on the GT. Our focus was on the suspension and alignment. We invested in some tools to hopefully improve the accuracy of the process including a Longacre caster / camber gauge (Summit LNG78250), Quick Trick Alignment Plates, (Summit QTA60004) and a Tenhulzen Automotive toe plates (Summit TNH2200). All worked well.
Safety washers were added to the steering arms. This should have been done a dozen years ago.
The castor was measured at 7 degrees – the maximum possible based on the lower control arm being fully forward and the upper being fully aft. We decided to reduce this a bit by relocating the upper control arms forward a couple of washer widths, resulting in about 5 degrees of castor. With this change the camber was a negative ¾ degree.
The Longacre caster/camber gauge makes measuring camber a breeze. Measuring caster was a bit of a challenge since the turning radius of the GT cannot reach a full twenty degrees in both directions, so using a digital level proved easier.
Front toe was measured with the Tenhulzen toe plates. It worked well and gave more precise measurements than the string method previously used. We were able to set the front at a negative 1/16”. Only a fraction of a turn of the adjuster makes noticeable differences. The front wheels were placed on the Quick Trick Alignment Plates which worked very well.
We checked the rear toe. To our surprise it was at a negative 1/16” based on the last time we had set it up using the string technique. Given the complexity of adjusting the rear toe, we left it alone.
For this exercise we did not set up the parallel lines needed to assure the rear suspension was properly aligned. So this was not a complete and proper alignment, but for now we are satisfied with the results.
A couple of long drives confirmed a slight but noticeable improvement. The bit of vagueness on center is gone and the steering wheel is now perfectly centered while driving a straight line.
Wheel weights.
Weight is critical to the function of race cars. Every ounce saved adds to the performance. Our quest for weight reduction has been constant throughout this project.
Adding lead weights to the wheels to balance them seems counterintuitive. Lead is a dense, heavy metal. It is used to make keels on sail boats to keep them upright. Using lead on a reproduction race car is just wrong. A means of achieving proper wheel balance without adding lead to the GT 40 wheels was the goal.
Researching the issue, we found that lead wheel weights have been banned in Europe since 2005 and in some states, including California (well, that’s a surprise). Zinc or iron are now being used where lead is outlawed. Indeed, we found that the weights used on the Porsche were zinc and the BMW iron.
Titanium is an exotic material, significant both for its strength, light weight, and corrosion resistance. Recall the SR71, a spy plane that broke many records for altitude and speed, was built primarily from titanium. Titanium is being used on race and exotic cars for engine components, chassis components, wheels, and drive train parts. Accordingly, we searched for titanium wheel weights. Although much more costly, a given volume of titanium is much lighter than the same volume of lead, iron or zinc.
The titanium weights we used have a distinctive Ti identifying them. Because of their reduced density, they are dimensionally larger than a comparable lead weight. Compare the titanium weights with the zinc weights in this picture.
We used 3M double sided adhesive tape to install these dimensionally larger weights. It is an incredibly strong tape. These titanium weights will not be going anywhere.
If one looks closely, the weights can be seen, but from a short distance away they blend in well.
After making this upgrade I cannot honestly say there was any difference in either the speed or feel of the car. But the satisfaction of knowing that we have state of the art wheel weights made this project worthwhile.
Weight is critical to the function of race cars. Every ounce saved adds to the performance. Our quest for weight reduction has been constant throughout this project.
Adding lead weights to the wheels to balance them seems counterintuitive. Lead is a dense, heavy metal. It is used to make keels on sail boats to keep them upright. Using lead on a reproduction race car is just wrong. A means of achieving proper wheel balance without adding lead to the GT 40 wheels was the goal.
Researching the issue, we found that lead wheel weights have been banned in Europe since 2005 and in some states, including California (well, that’s a surprise). Zinc or iron are now being used where lead is outlawed. Indeed, we found that the weights used on the Porsche were zinc and the BMW iron.
Titanium is an exotic material, significant both for its strength, light weight, and corrosion resistance. Recall the SR71, a spy plane that broke many records for altitude and speed, was built primarily from titanium. Titanium is being used on race and exotic cars for engine components, chassis components, wheels, and drive train parts. Accordingly, we searched for titanium wheel weights. Although much more costly, a given volume of titanium is much lighter than the same volume of lead, iron or zinc.
The titanium weights we used have a distinctive Ti identifying them. Because of their reduced density, they are dimensionally larger than a comparable lead weight. Compare the titanium weights with the zinc weights in this picture.
We used 3M double sided adhesive tape to install these dimensionally larger weights. It is an incredibly strong tape. These titanium weights will not be going anywhere.
If one looks closely, the weights can be seen, but from a short distance away they blend in well.
After making this upgrade I cannot honestly say there was any difference in either the speed or feel of the car. But the satisfaction of knowing that we have state of the art wheel weights made this project worthwhile.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
GT 40 ownership is, in itself, somewhat less than rational....
Chuck,
This is a great idea - why didn't I think of that?
However, to further improve your idea - you should place the weights on the inside of the tire > by doing this your distance increases and you can use smaller weights. A positive side effect would be that the weights can't fly off which allows the use of less adhesive saving additional weight.
Keep on the good work.
Btw, which date do we have today?
This is a great idea - why didn't I think of that?
However, to further improve your idea - you should place the weights on the inside of the tire > by doing this your distance increases and you can use smaller weights. A positive side effect would be that the weights can't fly off which allows the use of less adhesive saving additional weight.
Keep on the good work.
Btw, which date do we have today?
Hmmm. Lightweight weights.
Maybe like exercising with lightweight dumbbells. Either way.
Just drill thru the wheel and safety wire them in place!
Maybe like exercising with lightweight dumbbells. Either way.
Just drill thru the wheel and safety wire them in place!
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Ha! Been away from the internet for a few days and was actually wondering what it would be this year, was looking forward to catching up. Tip o'the hat, Chuck. Every year you do yourself justice (look- I made a lawyer pun!!!)
Gauges, Part I. Pilots refer to analog dial instruments as ‘steam gauges’ in a somewhat pejorative manner, since ‘glass’ panels have become the aviation standard. I like steam gauges. The relative position of the needles provides information at a glance without actually reading the numbers. The GT has a row of them, but it was time to add a couple more.
The Weber carbs demand low fuel pressure, just a few pounds. Webers have certain idiosyncrasies, like dripping fuel from the float bowls into the intake after a hot shut down, which is easily addressed by turning off the fuel pump a couple of minutes before shut down so the fuel in the bowls can be drained. Being able to monitor the fuel pressure, therefore, is something useful.
The engine oil temperature is monitored, but a vigorous drive can also run up the transmission temperature. Being able to monitor its health would be nice.
Fuel pressure and transmission temperature gauges were ordered from Speed Hut which are a close match to the other Speed Hut gauges installed a decade ago. The font used on those ten-year-old gauges is no longer available, but Speed Hut was able to provide a close match and since these two gauges will be mounted in a remote location the only ones that will notice the difference are those reading this post.
Here are the gauges and the proposed location.
The Weber carbs demand low fuel pressure, just a few pounds. Webers have certain idiosyncrasies, like dripping fuel from the float bowls into the intake after a hot shut down, which is easily addressed by turning off the fuel pump a couple of minutes before shut down so the fuel in the bowls can be drained. Being able to monitor the fuel pressure, therefore, is something useful.
The engine oil temperature is monitored, but a vigorous drive can also run up the transmission temperature. Being able to monitor its health would be nice.
Fuel pressure and transmission temperature gauges were ordered from Speed Hut which are a close match to the other Speed Hut gauges installed a decade ago. The font used on those ten-year-old gauges is no longer available, but Speed Hut was able to provide a close match and since these two gauges will be mounted in a remote location the only ones that will notice the difference are those reading this post.
Here are the gauges and the proposed location.
Gauges, Part II. Installing the gauges came next. The fiberglass surfaces my look flat, but is not. A gauge panel was fabricated from 20-gauge steel that would assure a flat mounting surface. There is a risk that one might bump the gauges with one’s feet getting in or out, so the mounting panel was designed with ‘wings’ on both sides. Once the dimensions were confirmed with a pattern the holes were drilled, metal cut to the dimensions shown, and the wings bent to 90 degrees. The four mounting holes were drilled.
The next project was cutting the opening. The diameter of the gauge retaining screw rings required a larger hole so simply cutting a rectangular hole, simplified the process. The four mounting holes were drilled and test fitted. The gauges were placed in line with the vent for proper aesthetics.
To simplify placement and removal of the panel, nut plates were cut from 1/8” x ½” steel and taped for 8/32 screws. This will assure the screws will remain straight despite the curved surface of the fiberglass and be easier to install than individual nuts.
The face of the gauges needs to be angled to provide a better viewing position for the driver so a beveled ring was needed. A two-inch diameter length of PVC pipe worked perfectly. Sections were cut at a 10^ angle which provided a good viewing angle.
The parts were painted flat black to match the rest of the instrument panel.
The next project was cutting the opening. The diameter of the gauge retaining screw rings required a larger hole so simply cutting a rectangular hole, simplified the process. The four mounting holes were drilled and test fitted. The gauges were placed in line with the vent for proper aesthetics.
To simplify placement and removal of the panel, nut plates were cut from 1/8” x ½” steel and taped for 8/32 screws. This will assure the screws will remain straight despite the curved surface of the fiberglass and be easier to install than individual nuts.
The face of the gauges needs to be angled to provide a better viewing position for the driver so a beveled ring was needed. A two-inch diameter length of PVC pipe worked perfectly. Sections were cut at a 10^ angle which provided a good viewing angle.
The parts were painted flat black to match the rest of the instrument panel.
Gauges, Part III. Sending units were installed and the wiring connected. The Aeromotive pressure regulator already had an available 1/8” NPT fitting to it was an easy matter to place the fuel pressure sending unit. A 90-degree fitting was added so the sender would go downward rather than stick out for cosmetic reasons.
The ZF transmission did not have a convenient place to add the sending unit, so the drain plug on the bottom was used. This required a reducer to accommodate the 1/8” NPT threads on the sending unit.
Running the wires from the sending units required removal of the driver’s seat since the goal was to keep all the wires within the existing loom. The transmission sender wire required splicing an extension. The fuel sending unit wires were shortened.
The next project will be wiring the gauges.
The ZF transmission did not have a convenient place to add the sending unit, so the drain plug on the bottom was used. This required a reducer to accommodate the 1/8” NPT threads on the sending unit.
Running the wires from the sending units required removal of the driver’s seat since the goal was to keep all the wires within the existing loom. The transmission sender wire required splicing an extension. The fuel sending unit wires were shortened.
The next project will be wiring the gauges.
Gauges, Part IV. We were concerned that access to the power connections points buried deep behind the dash would be a challenge in wiring these new gauges. Three connections are need: the gauge needle lighting and motor function; the numeral lighting; and the sending unit connection. To make the first two connections access to the ignition and a power source is needed.
I had forgotten that an extra connection line had been added when the Speed Hut gauges were installed a decade ago and was delighted to find that little plug right where it needed it to be. To connect these two gauges into a single source a harness was made using the same, tiny JST connectors used by Speed Hut. This avoided splicing into existing wires and will permit the gauges to be separately removed by simply pulling plugs.
The transmission sending unit was tested by setting it in a cup of hot water. Once its operation was confirmed it was screwed into the transmission drain plug opening using EZ Lubricant, a non-adhesive sealant that permits removal of the fitting for transmission fluid changes. Function of the fuel pressure gauge was confirmed by simply turning on the fuel pumps.
Tested, wire harness in place, the gauges are now ready to be installed.
I had forgotten that an extra connection line had been added when the Speed Hut gauges were installed a decade ago and was delighted to find that little plug right where it needed it to be. To connect these two gauges into a single source a harness was made using the same, tiny JST connectors used by Speed Hut. This avoided splicing into existing wires and will permit the gauges to be separately removed by simply pulling plugs.
The transmission sending unit was tested by setting it in a cup of hot water. Once its operation was confirmed it was screwed into the transmission drain plug opening using EZ Lubricant, a non-adhesive sealant that permits removal of the fitting for transmission fluid changes. Function of the fuel pressure gauge was confirmed by simply turning on the fuel pumps.
Tested, wire harness in place, the gauges are now ready to be installed.
Gauges Part V. The gauges were installed and the wiring harness connected to the power source and sending units. The seat was put back in place. Here is the driver’s view.
Retrofitting these gauges took about thirty hours’ time for design, fabrication, and installation. Next is a test drive once the weather warms up.
Retrofitting these gauges took about thirty hours’ time for design, fabrication, and installation. Next is a test drive once the weather warms up.
Fabulous work again, Chuck!
At 30 hours investment - you can clearly see why it is difficult for good Fabrication and Restoration shops to make a living. Most customers would jump backwards if you were to tell them that it would cost them $3,000 in labor alone. But - that’s what it really takes to do exemplary work like yours... My hat’s off to you...
At 30 hours investment - you can clearly see why it is difficult for good Fabrication and Restoration shops to make a living. Most customers would jump backwards if you were to tell them that it would cost them $3,000 in labor alone. But - that’s what it really takes to do exemplary work like yours... My hat’s off to you...
Kick panels. Getting in and out of the GT requires a bit of gymnastics, including guiding one’s foot past the forward door jamb to avoid messing up the fiberglass. To better protect the fiberglass, kick panels were cut from aluminum and the existing button head bolts used to hold each in place. The aluminum was rubbed with a gray Scotch Brite pad to create an even, dull, finish.
Where did you purchase that demister grille from?
The demister grill is supposedly a generic item used on the Ford Falcon or similar mid sixties Ford. That may save you big bucks over trying to get an actual "original." It has been a while since I researched that and don't recall the specific Ford from which it came.
