Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build


Pump Installation

To address the noise and vibration, the pumps were mounted using rubber washers, 1 inch diameter and eighth inch thick, with matching steel washers, on both sides. Fittings compatible with the black fabric covered fuel line and vintage style clamps were used to match the carburetor plumbing. Where possible aluminum tubing was used to span longer or less accessible locations.

The aluminum tubing ends were treated with a bead tool to assure the hose and clamps would stay in place. This tool is available from several sources including Pegasus.

The fuel line goes directly from the tank to the input of the pump. No separate filter is needed, since it is integral with the pump. This eliminates another pair of connections on both sides.

An aluminum fuel line was used to carry the fuel from the right fuel pump, along the base of the firewall opening, to the regulator on the left side. It was covered with insulating material. This line was connected to the pump on the right and the regulator on the left side with lengths of 3/8” I.D. fuel line.

Clearance issues required a bit of trimming. Small sections of fiberglass had to be cut away on the inside of the rear clip to clear the top of the right pump.



Pressure Regulator

While researching the issue an Aeromotive regulator designed specifically for high volume low pressure applications, specifically Webers, was found. It is a bit pricey, but seemed ideal for this application.

Pegasus had one in our hands in a couple of days. It requires AN fittings with O rings. Very nice piece. Aeromotive / Pegasus part number AEI-13222.

The previous set up included a large fuel filter / water separator which had two inputs, making it a good connection point for the left and right tanks. We pitched it. The new Aeromotive regulator was mounted in the same area where that massive filter had been located before. A simple “T” connection on the input side brought fuel from both pumps to the regulator. The integral check valves in each pump will prevent fuel from one tank filling the other, eliminating the need for separate check valves and thus eliminating another pair of connections on each side.

The pressure gauge is an inexpensive unit. It is not liquid filled. (I was not aware that liquid filled gauges quickly lose their accuracy as the engine compartment heats up). Once the 2 ½ pounds of pressure were confirmed, I removed the gauge and put a plug into the opening. Keep it simple.

The fuel flow problem has been resolved. Both tanks flow well. The noise which we noted when initially testing the pumps proved to be a non-issue. At idle one hears a “clicking” sound but underway the pumps cannot be heard over the din of the rear exhaust.

This new set up has another advantage. There are a total of eight fewer connections since the check valve and filter are integral with the pump. In addition nearly all connections are now visible and not concealed behind the two side panels. This makes the chances of leaks at connection points less likely and also makes a check of the connections possible at a glance.



Rear Wiper

It has been a while since we did a GT40 project, so I decided to take a break from the Jaguar D Type and add an improvement, prompted by the incredible amount of rain that has fallen this spring. Although we do not want to drive the GT in the rain, sometimes it cannot be avoided and when it rains good wipers are a must. Here is how we installed a rear wiper to ensure good visibility of those on our tail.

After a lot of research we settled on the SeaDogLine heavy duty wiper, part 412121B-3. This unit is designed for marine use and is well built. It is a single, self-contained unit making it ideal for this project.


We selected a spot on the right side, set in a bit towards the center to assure a good sweep area. The wiper motor can be set up for different ranges and is preset at 110 degrees, which was perfect in this application.


The location for drilling the holes was carefully determined and marked. Only two holes are needed: an 11/16” hole for the wiper spindle and a ¼” hole for the anti-rotation bolt. We used a button head type bolt to make the anti-rotation bolt look like a rivet.


Because of the length of the spindle a spacer was needed to set the wiper at the correct level. A scrap of chromoly pipe was cut to 1 7/8” inches in length and worked perfectly. A spacer on the ¼” bolt was required as well.

I had some concerns about the heat from the headers adversely affecting the wiper motor assembly, so a shield was fabricated out of thin aluminum. It is held in place by the same two bolts that hold the wiper in place. (This picture was taken before the wiring was completed)


Wiring was the most difficult part of the project, since the wires had to be run through existing wire looms all the way up behind the dash. After about six hours of painful work two wires went from the wiper motor to the switch panel. (A third was connected to ground). Although the wiper motor has four wires and is set up for two speeds, we used three of the wires (self park function requires a wire) and set it up for low speed operation only. Seriously, if it is raining hard enough to require a high speed wiper we will put it back in the garage and drive another day.

Two switches side by side, operate the wipers: left for the front and right for the rear. (We do not label any of the switches. The layout is intuitive and the Dyno tack on labels used on the original GT40 look, well, tacky).


Project complete!


My only concern is that frequent use could leave a wear pattern on the rear window since it is plexi glass rather than real glass. Otherwise, it works great.

Next project: spray washer for the rear window, now that a wiper is in place. We will report on that project one year from today.

Ron McCall

What a brilliant idea!!! You guys seem to come up with cutting edge, innovative ideas like this every year around this time. Must be the spring air!!


Randy V

Lifetime Supporter
RainX makes a formula specific to plastic and that might make your wiper “slide” a little easier.
Frequent wipes of the wiper blade with isopropyl alcohol will help too...


Battery Cover

A really tiny detail.

While perusing the West Marine store I happened upon a Blue Sea Systems Automotive Cable cap, part number 4016.


To protect the positive terminal on the battery a short section of plastic wire wrap has been in place since it was originally built. This was a ‘temporary’ cover until something proper was found. This cable cap was the ideal, proper, replacement.




Reincarnation magazine, Autumn 2019, published an article about our GT40. Here is the link:

This is a very nice publication, and the subscription is free. It is an excellent resource - I wish I had known about it long ago!

Randy V

Lifetime Supporter
I set a Follow on your Facebook page.
Odd there’s no link here to your full build log....


Battery Charger

The Red Top AGM battery was recently replaced with another Red Top after ten years of faithful service. AGM batteries have some distinct advantages over traditional lead acid including a sealed case and more punch in a smaller package, although they are a bit pricey. We hope to make the replacement last as long as the original.

With winter closing in the GT spends a lot less time on the road. The Avon tires are too expensive to risk damage from driving on frozen pavement. With more time between rides the battery needs to be attended to.

AGM batteries are typically considered to be direct replacements for lead acid, with similar charging characteristics. But there are differences. More sophisticated chargers have come out designed specifically for AGM batteries. Since both our Carbon Cub airplane, GT40, and soon the D Type, use AGM batteries, a proper charger was explored. Battery Minder Model 2012-AGM was our choice. It costs around $100. It has some sophisticated circuitry that charges at proper voltages and also desulfates the battery which should extend its life.


The Red Top is concealed from view on the GT with an original style fiberglass cover. Removing it to gain access to connect the charger takes a few minutes time which discourages me from bothering with charging the battery. The charger comes with a removable connection that can be hardwired to the battery, so a half inch hole was drilled in the fiberglass cover, a grommet placed, and the connection permanently added. Note that the wire is run through the hole before the grommet is placed, after which the grommet is slit and installed around the wire assuring a tight fit.


We are a more likely to use the charger now that connecting it has been simplified. Yea, I'm lazy. When not in use, the charging plug is set in an empty grommet on the fire wall to keep it out of the way.

Chuck, sorry for the back-track, you might consider having your rear window/engine cover wrapped with an acrylic clear bra type wrap. I've even heard of ceramic wraps. Something that could be replaced more easily than the window plastic.


Chuck, sorry for the back-track, you might consider having your rear window/engine cover wrapped with an acrylic clear bra type wrap. I've even heard of ceramic wraps. Something that could be replaced more easily than the window plastic.
Good idea. I will look into that between now and March 31st.