Classic Car Developments Chassis #5 - Doc Watson's car

Doc Watson

Lifetime Supporter
...and I thought you would not approve of adding more weight to the car Frank!

Graham, I still have to make the top plate!!! after that never again, don't even ask me to make you some..... ;-)

Keith, bottom stops gravel and road debris getting into the bellhousing (sh*t from below) and the top cover probably for venting heat/smoke from the clutch, both can be also used to inspect TDC or BDC of the engine (if you stamp the flywheel)....(bullsh*t from me?)

Used a 500 degrees C silver solder from a specialist who sells to live steam model locomotive builders. I found it while researching building a scale loco boiler (my BR 52 kriegslokomotive is a story for another day). You need very little of the solder if the fit is tight, capillary action does it all but a mesh is full of holes!!! used 2 1mm x 300mm rods so ordered more for the top cover, didn't support all the sides (see pic 4 post #76) and the center sagged a little, sorted now (steel plate and persuader) and waiting for the bolts to arrive, which have and unusual thread in them?!? 12-24 unc?!? the book says 1/4 unc?!? (Paul can you confirm the thread size for the cover plates) checked very carefully my set of taps 1/4 unc would not fit, 12-24 went in but got tight towards the bottom of the bellhousing, tapped them through with very small amount of material cut away. SS bolts washers and lock washers are ordered and will be with me shortly.

The learning process is steep, sorted drilling SS now and hacksaw and files are like a 6 hour workout for the past 2 weekends, who needs the gym when your cutting a SS engine cover plate by hand (once a fitter always a fitter) the top plate will probably take 2-3 hours to do from start to finish and I might sneek out later this week to do it.

My eye of Sauron is now turning to the bellhousing/gearbox attachment, it looks like i need socket head bolts for the top and studs for the bottom two attachment points. Complicated further by the bottom threads having a helicoil insert (I assume for better strength) will get them ordered this week.
 
Doc,

Super work! You may want to lay your parts flat on a scanner, and save some jpgs of them.

If you ever happen to need replacements parts, it's a matter of hours to get them done in CAD files from the scans, and then, laser cut!

Olivier.
 

Doc Watson

Lifetime Supporter
It was only a matter of hours yesterday (about 4 from start to finish), hacksaw, drill, files.... filing...... more filing....and more filing....then brazing. As most jobs to do are '1 off' I am making them by hand. Now if I was to build a few more chassis......

Next up engine internals, engine mounting plates (the ones that fix to the chassis and hold the bolt which passes through the rubber bushing), and fixing the gearbox to the bellhousing.

Andy
 

Doc Watson

Lifetime Supporter
The starter fits...... Aviad pan clearance is fine, correct size washers and lockwashers for the bellhousing cover plate, and some more brazing this time the clutch slave arm. Still needs a little more cleaning before paint.
 

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Doc Watson

Lifetime Supporter
I was trawling this site and came across a great idea....I've wanted a start button for the car and was going to get an original 'cold war' missile button but after a 2 am Ebay fest (not generally a good idea) I found this.....perfect....and its not showing its age, but what is it?
 

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Very nice parts indeed !!
any other steering rack left other ???? by any chance
Are the front and rear bonnets plates oem or new remanufactured parts ?

Your Big nice Lego is starting to be completed !! keep on your so good finds !!!:drunk:
 
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