Dan's Build

Dan Carter

Supporter
I'm bringing my P0606 ECU code story back under my build blog. Received the new ECU and installed it Friday. Downloaded the stock file and sat down to make a comparison to the tune currently on the car. Unfortunately to get to this point, I had 3 tuners do their thing, and each was “recommended”. The first two tunes were questionable post-delivery, because the car never ran right. The 3rd tuner (Ed Gomez, Pro Edge Tuning
www.ProEdgeTuning.com) is the guy Allan uses for all his builds. Ed lives in the NE and travels to do all the tuning for a company in Tallahassee FL that still builds Trans AMs ($184k and up) and I got to visit the company while Ed did some tuning for me (really nice cars). By the time Ed got my tune, the other two guys had made changes, but we had no way of knowing who did what.

The jury is still out on should you/can you change the stock GM throttle table without bricking the ECU, and there is a lot of discussion on tuning forums on the subject (note, GM says do so at your own risk). Anyway, I broke down and bought the HP Tuner reader/writer and even thou I lack the skills to change the tune, I can at least read it, download the tune and run the car to watch the engine data, which has made the purchase worthwhile. BTW you don’t need to buy any credits ($50 each, 2 required) to download tunes, review and record engine data, only to write to the ECU. Now, I found a lot of changes to the tune I have compared to stock, and many probably not required, to include the throttle table. I sent both the current tune and stock files off to Ed, who will review and send back a tune that is his alone without any unnecessary former changes left behind. HP Tuner software lets you review and compare two tunes and visually show the differences for review, a great feature.

Not certain it makes a difference, but I noted that the GM part number for the original LS3/480 ECU and the current one is different (new one is the 331part), but both are listed for the crate motor application. As soon as I get the file back, upload the tune I will start driving again and can report back if the code comes back, which will be chasing a ghost, but I’m hoping all will be OK.

More to follow.

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GM keeps changing part numbers on the engine controller and crate engines - the last one I bought was superceded above the prior one - not sure why the effort on their part to do it

Hope it works out; I know how painful it is to chase gremlins and hope like hell the solution of replace everything works!
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
My GM Tech2 scan tool has a section in it devoted to the GM Performance engine control. See if you can find someone locally that can hook one up for you.
 

Dan Carter

Supporter
A new window development. Earlier in my build I conducted a product test on making a Frit for the door/rear windshields. At that time, I did not conduct a pull test and I did not complete a time test to see how well the selected Krylon (molecularly bonds-“riigghhttt”) would hold. Well now I know what time has yielded. In the picture below note the bubble look in the black frit along the rear window. The Krylon has let go of the Poly. I have taken the drivers window off using a windshield wire pull cutter, very slowly making sure I didn’t cut into the paint.

In the second picture I did run a pull test with two new Frit experimental products……epoxy primer and Raptor truck bed liner…...that’s right truck bed liner. The red tab is used in pulling car dents with a slide hammer, so I ran the poly in two sections, one epoxy primer and the other bed liner. Both tape edges are superior after pulling blue pinstripe tape off.

Next a pull test. While priming both “paints” with windshield primer, I noted that the primer was able to take the epoxy primer off the poly (that’s not supposed to happen), but the primer did not phase the bed liner. Both products gave an excellent black Frit from the front BTW. I then ran window urethane for about 7 inches and stuck two each red tabs into the urethane and allowed them to dry for 2 days. I used my slide hammer and aggressively pulled on each tab. They all held. So why are three missing, glad you asked. I went to failure on the next pull test. Off to get my vice grips…….grab hold and pulled until it pulled loose. If that window is being pulled with the force I was using, then bolts would be the only way to hold it to the car. I nearly snapped the poly in two with the last tab. When they did let go, it was the union of the tab to the urethane and not the “paint” to the poly. So, I’m going to use the Raptor bedliner this time. Will UV cause a breakdown, probably not as the bedliner is the same in my pickup and its been on for 12 years roughly. Raptor is thin so its not a super thick Frit. I’ll glue the window in again this week. Are we having fun yet?

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Joel K

Supporter
Thanks for sharing Dan, who would have thought of bedliner for a frit, Just wondering how you came up with that approach.
 
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Dan Carter

Supporter
I want to say it’s talent, but that would be BS...lol. I have been using this Raptor product for a lot of other car projects and have been impressed with its project flexibility. It’s also tintable so I have used it to protect vulnerable parts for debris damage. It has worked well and after being hit hard many times it never lets go. So the idea just struck me, try it. I rolled it onto the back side of my test piece and while it appears to be thick, it’s really not. It grips like no other test I have done, so why not, but once again time will tell I guess, but confidence is high. I know this time that 80 grit sandpaper will not take it off poly, so it has to work. Fingers crossed.
 
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