Dean's GT-R build thread

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
"Allan and I did the same thing (sleeving my shifter cables with those high temp sleeves AND a reflective foil on top) and the shifter cable still melted because of it's close proximity to my headers. Quickly."

Valuable information Preston! Just wondering: Did you have ceramic coating inside and out on your exhaust system? I wouldn't expect ceramic to be "magic" but would hope it has at least a few hundred dollars worth of benefit.
 
Do you think a double layer of that sleeve material would make a measurable difference? I don't see the headers being 500 degrees 18 inches from the heads which is the max temp rating but if it would help I would double up. I have a smaller sizr for my throttle cable that might fit inside the shift cable sleeve. I could also wrap the area in gold foil.

Perhaps you should take a ride in the engine bay sometime Dean.. one of those situations where what you cannot see can hurt you.
 

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Fire sleeve is rated different. Fire proof will withstand direct fire for 15'. Fire resistant is good for 5'. I run a brake line 2-3" under headers within same distance from engine without any problems with the good stuff. Of course it is 'under' the heat source. Take a piece of brake line and insert it into your sleeve then put a heat gun to it, see how it handles it.
 
"Allan and I did the same thing (sleeving my shifter cables with those high temp sleeves AND a reflective foil on top) and the shifter cable still melted because of its close proximity to my headers. Quickly."

Valuable information Preston! Just wondering: Did you have ceramic coating inside and out on your exhaust system? I wouldn't expect ceramic to be "magic" but would hope it has at least a few hundred dollars worth of benefit.

Yes. The headers are ceramic coated inside and out.
 
I'm working on some more heat control measures. I wanted to insulate the back of the engine and the wires in that area from the headers. I think it was Jason's thread that gave me this idea.

I started with some sheets of aluminum and formed them around the wiring harnes and other stuff on the back of the heads. I have very little clearance in this area so the shape of the heat guard was pretty important.





I am covering the aluminum with some quilted aluminum and fiberglass insulation. I bought it on ebay from a guy who didn't need it so I have no idea where it came from but it is exactly what I was looking for.



I stuck it to the panels and, using existing bolts on the engine, bolted the panels in place.



I'm still working on a solution for the shifter cables and their protection from the heat.
 
This may sound crazy, if the shifter cables are coming through in the center of the firewall, would it be possible if they are long enough to run them down the center of the intake manifold, between the fuel rails and then back to the transaxle This would get them out of the way of most of the heat. I am not sure about the length though.
 
This may sound crazy, if the shifter cables are coming through in the center of the firewall, would it be possible if they are long enough to run them down the center of the intake manifold, between the fuel rails and then back to the transaxle This would get them out of the way of most of the heat. I am not sure about the length though.

This is more or less how the original Ford GT shift cables are run...
 
I used to own a ceramic coating Co and we coated headers and it stop 80% of the radiant heat and stopped killing ecm's for Raynard Indy cars
 
I want to step back to previous topic that I never really finished up, the oil system. So the 2015 coyote comes with a heat exchanger for the oil stock from the factory but I was told that might not provide the cooling needed for a mid engine car. That's why I decided to incorperate an extrnal cooler. The coyote oil filter thread size is not as common as many others so make sure you by an adapter with 22mm fittings. Here is the adaptor and the exchanger.





The remote filter mount is pretty basic but make sure you think about where the oil is going to drip when you remove the filter and can you reach it easily with the body on the chassis. If you mount the filter low, the oil in the lines will run all over the place when you remove the filter so I would suggest a higher mounting location.



Next I attached the Bracket for the thermostat. I haven't used a thermostat in the past but since this is a dual purpose car, I thought it would be helpful.



And the thermosatat bolted in.



I built a bracket for the cooler and put it in a location right in line with the side scoop in order to provide the maximum air flow.



If I have issues with oil temp, I can make changes later.
 
Looks good as always.
I've heard the gold foil can be difficult to drill through but it looks like you had no problems with that?
 
If you get into a situation where you need to drill into hard material try using a reverse rake on the drill bit with carbide. This is the same rake one would use when drilling brass.
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
More cooling for the oil can be accomplished using an integrated radiator/fan unit, but it takes up space. If someone needs more air forced through their oil cooler radiator without a fan, a shroud can be fabricated out of aluminum sheeting.

In my case, the radiator needed to be mounted on a significant slant in the sidepod, plus I put a Nomex honeycomb radiator protector in front of it. The shroud forces all air to go through the radiator instead of around it....different application(LMP-1) but basic concept. (The other structure is for battery protection, hence the jumpers.)

I'm no expert, just how I did it.
Thanks for the great build log Dean,
David
 

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Alright, slight change of direction. After talking to a good friend whom I hold in very high regard, I am pulling the oil system off and swithing things over to -12 lines and removing the thermostat.

Sometimes I like to just waste money on parts that I ultimately don't need!
 
While I wait for the new oil lines, I went ahead and plunbed in the transaxle cooler. With the Graziano gear box you need to run these lines because of the internal pump. You can't just plug the holes. I'm not 100% sure you need a cooler on the gearbox but since it comes set up for one, it's an easy addition.



 

D. Nye

Lifetime Supporter
Dean, can you explain why you a deleting the oil thermostat? I thought if you were going to run a oil cooler it was best to have this thermostat so not to over cool the oil. I understand the oil line size. I used your original design on my car and asking if I need to reconsider.

Looking good by the way.

Thanks,

Don
 
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