Dean's GT-R build thread

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
Larry
Not a chance
Well, I certainly do not for a moment doubt you know what you're talking about, Fran. I'm sure that IS the way it is.

Still, end-user customer "A" both orders and pays for his transaxle thru dealer-person "B" (whomever dealer-person "B" might be...Fran Hall or whomever! lol!), and dealer-person "B" then orders it from someone somewhere who's connected in some way to/with Graziano...a person whose responsibility it is (for sake of argument) to see to it the order is taken, and the transaxle's 'build' is scheduled and filled...AKA person "C". IOW, somebody ("B"), regardless of who he is, places an order for the transaxle with Graziano, and somebody ("C") who's directly connected in some way with Graziano takes the order. So, it would seem to me when person "B" says 'Howdy' to person "C", and all the order info is exchanged, the 'goo delete' request could be voiced to order-taker person "C" at that time, he could then note the request somewhere on the order form, and the assembly line personnel would then comply with the request. It doesn't seem to me something that simple would/could/SHOULD, in the end, be all that complicated... :shrug:

Buuuut, whud th' heck duz I know... :undecided:
 
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Well, I certainly do not for a moment doubt you know what you're talking about, Fran. I'm sure that IS the way it is.

Still, end-user customer "A" both orders and pays for his transaxle thru dealer-person "B" (whomever dealer-person "B" might be...Fran Hall or whomever! lol!), and dealer-person "B" then orders it from someone somewhere who's connected in some way to/with Graziano...a person whose responsibility it is (for sake of argument) to see to it the order is taken, and the transaxle's 'build' is scheduled and filled...AKA person "C". IOW, somebody ("B"), regardless of who he is, places an order for the transaxle with Graziano, and somebody ("C") who's directly connected in some way with Graziano takes the order. So, it would seem to me when person "B" says 'Howdy' to person "C", and all the order info is exchanged, the 'goo delete' request could be voiced to order-taker person "C" at that time, he could then note the request somewhere on the order form, and the assembly line personnel would then comply with the request. It doesn't seem to me something that simple would/could/SHOULD, in the end, be all that complicated... :shrug:

Buuuut, whud th' heck duz I know... :undecided:
I am going to have my wife who happens to have PHD in Education translate this for me. But, for the most part, makes sense.
 
Re the black stuff removal. I've had good success using a wire wheel on a bench grinder, or on an air powered tool when removing stuff that defies the laws of garage mechanics. Gasket material, tar, varnish. Something like that looks like a 15' job. Doesn't harm the aluminum either. Just removed overspray on my aluminum uprights with wire wheel, no other way to do it really.
 
One of the last parts of the engine install I have left is the external oil coolers for the Graz and the engine. I have been testing different locations and will start the assembly this weekend. I wanted to point out that if you get an adapter like I did, you will need one for 22mm x 1.5 threads. That is for where the oil filter spins on. Here is what I used.





Here are the rest of the parts.



I am going to try and mount the coolers so the air from the side scope will aid in cooling. I might also add a fan.
 
One of the last parts of the engine install I have left is the external oil coolers for the Graz and the engine. I have been testing different locations and will start the assembly this weekend. I wanted to point out that if you get an adapter like I did, you will need one for 22mm x 1.5 threads. That is for where the oil filter spins on. Here is what I used.





Here are the rest of the parts.



I am going to try and mount the coolers so the air from the side scope will aid in cooling. I might also add a fan.
Hey Dean,
Did you look at the Peterson unit with remote primer before deciding on this unit? I specified the Peterson on my engine and if this makes more sense I will change. Safety first!!!
 
Not seriously. For $375 a remote filter mount better be made of gold! I don't see a need for a primer if your engine has already been primed. Everything is coated with oil already. I would fill the filter and fill the lines the best you can. Then use your starter to prime the engine. Next, connect the injectors and spark then fire! I would tell you to save your money. There are cheaper ways to prime your engine the first time. It just depends on how much money you want to spend. I have started a lot of cars that way without issue. You can run a pre-oiler like the Moroso accusump if you have an on going concern about your starting procedure. Save your money for other upgrades. :thumbsup:
 
The UPS man delivered my shifter a little while ago so I thought I would get that in while I was waiting on my exhaust and a few pieces to finish the oil system.



I drilled 2 3/4 inch holes in the fire wall to run the cables. After jumping in the drivers seat, I was alble to determine the location for the shifter box to be mounted. I marked the cables where they go through the fire wall and took them back out. I had originally tried to use grommets but the wall it too thick so I made my own with some oil line and shrink tube.



Next I bolted on the bracket and tested the cable routing.



I took the black plastic factory cable end of and put the hiem on that post. It took 3 3/8 inch washers underneath to take out some of the play.



I used some band clamps to secure the cables in position. You don't want them to touch your belts!



I wrapped the in gold foil to protect them from my headers.



So here it is.





Now the big question, How would you mount the box to the tunnel? The fuel tank is in there. I used a pop rivet to hold the cables in place on top of the tunnel (not pictured) and there is less than an 1/8 inch between the tank and the tunnel. Not even really enough for the pop rivet to grab. So you can't bolt it from inside the tunnel and even if there was room, how would you reach it? I was thinking about a steel saddle to go over the tunnel and bolt to the floor on each side. Any ideas?
 
Nutserts, although you might have to whip the tank out again to fit, another thought, cut a rectangle plate of 1/4" alloy about 1'' longer & wider than the shifter base, drill and tap for shifter and use rivets @ 3/4" spacing all round edge of that 1/4" plate to rivet it securely to tunnel.
 

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Nutserts, although you might have to whip the tank out again to fit, another thought, cut a rectangle plate of 1/4" alloy about 1'' longer & wider than the shifter base, drill and tap for shifter and use rivets @ 3/4" spacing all round edge of that 1/4" plate to rivet it securely to tunnel.
First time I've seen hand tools from India!
 
I can't weld aluminum so that's out. I wonder if the pop rivets would hold if you used like 25 around the perimeter of a steel plate. Then I could weld nuts to the bottom of the plate and recess those nuts into holes drilled into the tunnel.

For added strength, could you use silicone or some epoxy between the plates?
 

Dwight

RCR GT 40 Gulf Livery 347 Eight Stack injection
Supporter
Dean can you tig weld? Aluminum is easy to weld, just need the machine.
 
No I can't.:cry:
I'm not sure that's the best solution. I need to keep the bolts and plates as low as I can and I think the aluminum would have to be pretty thick to hold the threads. I guess I don't know how thick the plate would have to be to hold the threads? I have people handy who would weld it for me. The other thing is that the shifter is already pretty tall and I wouldn't want to add any height if I can avoid it.

I can do most things with steel. Thats why I was leaning that way.
 
No I can't.:cry:
I'm not sure that's the best solution. I need to keep the bolts and plates as low as I can and I think the aluminum would have to be pretty thick to hold the threads. I guess I don't know how thick the plate would have to be to hold the threads? I have people handy who would weld it for me. The other thing is that the shifter is already pretty tall and I wouldn't want to add any height if I can avoid it.

I can do most things with steel. Thats why I was leaning that way.
You need 1.5 times the diameter of the thread to achieve maximum holding for the bolt you are using. So, if you are using a 1/2 diameter bolt you need 3/4 length of thread. General practice in the tool and die trade.
 
I can't weld aluminum so that's out. I wonder if the pop rivets would hold if you used like 25 around the perimeter of a steel plate. Then I could weld nuts to the bottom of the plate and recess those nuts into holes drilled into the tunnel.

For added strength, could you use silicone or some epoxy between the plates?
Do you have room to install the bolts from underside of the tunnel? I was thinking of using stainless anchor bolts from the bottom side with some epoxy or silicone to prevent water intrusion.

Also, do you happen to know what the thread size on the Graz for hooking up the oil cooler lines?
 
How about using Hi-Lok bolts - they have a very shallow head and are tightened blind so you would only have to access the tunnel once. Aero stuff so tech sexy.
 
Your build is AWESOME! You are a master. I look everyday to see how you are progressing. Your problem solving has experience written all over it. Thank you for your time and commitment to your build thread. My GR-R is nearly ready to leave Superlite. Thank God you started before me.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I'd create an inspection hole/cover plate in front of the the shifter location. Then reach in with the tank pulled out and bolt the shifter brackets from the inside with shallow head bolts.
 
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