Dean's GT-R build thread

Ken Roberts

Supporter
12an sounds a little too big for the oil cooler circuit. I use that size on my dry sump tank. Are you sure that isn't what your friend was thinking of. If you don't use a thermostatic control and your oil cooler is very efficient you might have trouble getting up to temperature on cool spring and fall driving.
 
There are a lot of opinions on the thermostat and the size of the lines. The bigger lines and the removal of the thermostat had more to do with less restriction in the oil circuit. The 2015 coyote has a heat exchanger that I did not remove. That will allow the oil to be heated with the coolant to a point. My cooler is on the small side as it is only a 16 plate cooler. It is always a trade off. I decided to call Ford Racing tech line for confirmation. They suggested -12 lines instead of -10 for the coyote. They said -10 was marginal but -12 would be better. They did not recommend the thermostat. I don't really know any more than that. I don't think the thermostat would hurt you, I just didn't want to take the chance after my call with Ford.
 
Thanks for all the kind words. I can't wait to show some shots of them on the car.

But first I need to finish the heat shielding. The first order of business was to create as much space between the shift cables and the exhaust as I can. I also double covered the cables with the heat sleeve. I don't know how much that will help but I don't think it could hurt. I pulled them down and clamped them in place.





That helped with the clearance a lot. I'm under the pipes and a few inches away. The last resort would be to wrap the header if there is a problem in that area.

I felt like I should create some type of heat shield over my trans axle where the cables attach. I bent up another piece of sheet aluminum and through trial and error, got the final shape.







I think I'm ready for the pipes!
 
I have the exhaust mounted, I hope, for the last time. I left the studs in for the lower holes and used bolts in the upper flange holes. That's the only way it will go in.







I still need to add the filter in the transaxle oil line and re-work the engine oil lines but this is about what it is going to look like!

I'm headed to the Indy 500 this weekend for some inspiration!
 
They manufacture a product called syntactic form. This product can be used where you do not want heat to pass through or enter. Syntactic form can not be formed like some metals but can be machined with ease or can be purchased in a flat sheet form. Not sure if this material applies to any applications but I thought I would share.
 
Well the Indy 500 was fun but our cars are cooler!:thumbsup:

I am going to bolt on a few body pieces just to make it start looking like a car. I put the from lower on and the rear.





The rear took a little more work because I wanted to add the tail lights. It was pretty straght forward.

The lights are huge red LEDs with a cool billet aluminum trim ring. If you are ever in the Ford museum and see the Ford GT test mule, well it looks like the lights they used on that car.



Next I drilled the mounting holes.



I didn't really car for the look of the lights with the billet trim rings.



So I took it back apart and blacked them out. I also used a 1/2 inch wide foam weather strip to around the edge of the trim ring to seal between the light and the car.

Here is the car with the tail section and the exhaust. I spoke to Fran and he is working on the defuser for the back. I am planning to use stainless steel mesh to fill the other areas of the tail section.

 
What size tires are you using for the front and rear? Also, how much offset are you using for the rims if any? Those tires look great.
 
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