I know 3 people who've installed '8 stacks'. They all agree with you.
But, my money's on Dean finding a way to 'whoop' whatever demons show up...
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Dean's GT-R build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
I know 3 people who've installed '8 stacks'. They all agree with you.
But, my money's on Dean finding a way to 'whoop' whatever demons show up...
It comes down to if you're willing to compromise. I could have kept mine if I didn't mind running 0* of timing or just never idled the car (which i obviously do ... I chatted with another Harrop owner who burned his head gasket, lol)
Since my engine/intake manifold sticks out of the rear clip some days I look at it and sigh, but then I just remind myself that my engine will live a long and happy life
I was pretty nervous about cutting the dash and if I could do it again I would do it differently so I'll show you how I would have done it.
You can simply lay a 2x4 on the back of the glove box recess and level it with the top of the glove box. Where it touches the sides id where you will need to trim. Remember this will be covered with the "A" pillar interior cover that will mate up against the side of the dash so give yourself plenty of "wiggle room" so you can get the dash into place where you want it.
The center cut that fits over the steering column doesn't really need to be that big. You can see where my first cut was and then I glassed the piece back in and cut it again.
I loosened the steering column to give me a little more room to work. It will need some shimming to get it to fit like I would like it but it's close.
You can simply lay a 2x4 on the back of the glove box recess and level it with the top of the glove box. Where it touches the sides id where you will need to trim. Remember this will be covered with the "A" pillar interior cover that will mate up against the side of the dash so give yourself plenty of "wiggle room" so you can get the dash into place where you want it.
The center cut that fits over the steering column doesn't really need to be that big. You can see where my first cut was and then I glassed the piece back in and cut it again.
I loosened the steering column to give me a little more room to work. It will need some shimming to get it to fit like I would like it but it's close.
When I cut the dash for the gauge cluster it was pretty straight forward. I just traced the gauge bezel and drilled the hole to mount the gauges.
From the back you can see the aluminum nut rivots I used to make it easy to get the face off later.
The front edge of the dash is about 2 inches off the surface of the tub. I can't say yet whether this is good or bad but it seems to fit well in this position.
Time to start the wiring.
From the back you can see the aluminum nut rivots I used to make it easy to get the face off later.
The front edge of the dash is about 2 inches off the surface of the tub. I can't say yet whether this is good or bad but it seems to fit well in this position.
Time to start the wiring.
Dean, you are just in time! I am just getting to the dashboard and final steering wheel position. Thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this.
Mark, your build has been incredible. If I can ever help, send me a note.
This wiring has been something I have been putting off just because it all looked so dang complicated. Well, I'm here to tell you it is the easiest wiring project I have every had! Now it's not done yet so the jury it still out but it is an incredibly well designed system.
I put the gauges in the aluminum gauge face in an order that I thought worked for me. If someone has thoughts on this, let em know. Then I just plugged the speedhut wires into the gauges and taped them all together.
These are just a few sending units and some wire connections. That's about it for the gauges. I still have to mount the buttons that come with all the gauges that allow you to see max and min numbers for that session. That is a real cool feature. I'll post more pictures when I get that part finished.
I'm going to install the Infinity system next. (It used to be called ISIS but that name proved to be very unfortunate!)
I put the gauges in the aluminum gauge face in an order that I thought worked for me. If someone has thoughts on this, let em know. Then I just plugged the speedhut wires into the gauges and taped them all together.
These are just a few sending units and some wire connections. That's about it for the gauges. I still have to mount the buttons that come with all the gauges that allow you to see max and min numbers for that session. That is a real cool feature. I'll post more pictures when I get that part finished.
I'm going to install the Infinity system next. (It used to be called ISIS but that name proved to be very unfortunate!)
Here is how I chose to lay out the gauges. Couldn't remember if I had posted this before.
Alright, how many of you get side tracked when you're out in your shop? I know I have been working on wiring but I really don't enjoy that so I was sitting in the car and thought I might just go ahead and mount the pedals. So I did the pedals then I thought I would go ahead and install the throttle cable and so on....
Mounting the pedals wasn't that hard. Put the pedals where you want them, mark the holes, drill and bolt down. With the 8 stack system, I needed a throttle cable instead of the drive by wire system most of you use. I used a piece of wire to get close to the length I needed and ordered it through Pegasus Racing. I ordered it a little long to make sure I had enough room to stay away from the headers.
I had to fabricate a spacer where the cable bolts to the pedals so my foot didn't rest against the cable. There was a threaded sleeve that came with my pedals. I was able to cut it off and weld a #10 nut to the sleeve. Someone might have done a prettier job but that's what it looks like.
The cables attach via these stainless steel brackets. I attached one by the pedals and one on the manifold.
I used the fiberglass heat shield sleeves I used on the shift cables to protect the throttle cable as well. I'm considering using another reflective layer over all my cables but that will come later.
Mounting the pedals wasn't that hard. Put the pedals where you want them, mark the holes, drill and bolt down. With the 8 stack system, I needed a throttle cable instead of the drive by wire system most of you use. I used a piece of wire to get close to the length I needed and ordered it through Pegasus Racing. I ordered it a little long to make sure I had enough room to stay away from the headers.
I had to fabricate a spacer where the cable bolts to the pedals so my foot didn't rest against the cable. There was a threaded sleeve that came with my pedals. I was able to cut it off and weld a #10 nut to the sleeve. Someone might have done a prettier job but that's what it looks like.
The cables attach via these stainless steel brackets. I attached one by the pedals and one on the manifold.
I used the fiberglass heat shield sleeves I used on the shift cables to protect the throttle cable as well. I'm considering using another reflective layer over all my cables but that will come later.
Hi Dean:
Did you modify your accelerator pedal? It looks shorter/way better than mine. Mine is too tall. Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Did you modify your accelerator pedal? It looks shorter/way better than mine. Mine is too tall. Any info would be helpful. Thanks
I think you may still have issues with the heat from the headers and that cable, even with the heat shielding. How big is the gap?
It appears I'm not the only one who's been pacing back and forth...but, evidently I'm the only one who's felt guilty enough about 'being pushy' to keep silent!
Mark my pedals are stock. No modifications that I can remember. Do you need a better picture of them?
Thanks Joe, I sort of put the cart before the horse on the dash so for those mounting their dash, there will be some updates soon. Bottom line, you want the gauge faces more vertical than if you make the back of the glove box perpendicular to the floor. The front edge of the dash needs to be almost 3 inches off the tub to fit nicely in the spider. How do I know? Well, the body is on the car for the first time in 15 months!
Thanks for the advice. I have another layer of shielding now but it is still probably within 3 inches of the pipe. What do think?
