Dean's SLC build thread

[Dean Lampe]

In order to finish up the wiring, I needed to install the shifter because I want to have a little switch panel on the side. Most of the track days I attend require a point by or a signal. This is a very convenient place for the signal toggle.

The cables went in very easily and fit perfectly.

I had to grind off the balls that were riveted to the shift linkage.

Then I just had to bolt in the cables. The hole in the linkage was larger than the stud end on the cable so I used a little bushing but other than that, it was easy.

The cables run to the back through the tank and under the engine on the passenger side. The shifter sits nicely on the center channel but I wanted to adjust the position just a little to make it perfect. I needed to fab up a mount for the shifter that would give me a little more hieght and tilt.

Once mounted, I was able to attach a piece of aluminum angle on the side and wire in a few switches.

I have the turn signal switch first right were I can easily reach it for a quick signal (not that i will ever need it!) The hazards are the next switch and the horn is the next button just to let the guy in front of me know I'm coming around!

 

[Dean Lampe]

Here is a quick look at the master disconnect mount. I welded up a little bolt on plate and mounted the switch plate to it.

A few nut zerts later and it was done.

I'm going to do the big 00 gauge battery wires tonight if I can get some time.

 

[June]

Any updates?

 

[Dean Lampe]

I have a few updates. It seems I can post or I can build but it is hard to find time to do both.

I ordered some 0 gauge wire to wire up the master switch. It took 25 feet to do what I needed and I could have used about 35 to get all the grounds and the wire from the alternator.

I ordered the solder on ends and built my own wires. The best way I have found to do this is to use a vise to hold the end and melt the solder into the end cap. Then you jam the wire into the liquid solder. I always turn it up with the cap in the air and heat it again until I see some solder melting out the bottom of the cap. Then I use a good quality shrink wrap to seal it up.

I ran the wire from the battery to the switch side "A" then from side "B" I took the ignition power and the GM harness power. I went from the battery to the starter solenoid and then used a 4 gauge wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator. That way the car will shut down if the master switch is tripped. If someone sees something here that doesn't seem right, let me know.

I think you can see some of the fuel system too. I will write that up next!

 

[Doug]

Hi Dean,
Beautiful job on this project. Is there a resistor built into the open circuitry of your battery kill switch? If not and you were to shut off the kill switch with the engine running, the alternator voltage will spike and it will destroy itself. The resistor would consume the extra power while the engine (and alternator) revs down to zero.

Suspect you already familiar with this.

Doug

 

[Dean Lampe]

Doug, would that be built into the switch or something that should be added? I hate wiring so that is something I am not familiar with. Since the alternator goes straight to the starter solenoid, would the fuseable link between the alternator and the solenoid protect the alternator or is that for something else?

If it isn't built into the switch or if the fuseable link doesn't do the trick then I missed it. Could you post a link to the part I might need?

I can go back and fix it but I need to do it before I get much further.

 

[Mike]

Dean, go to this attached weblink and click on the instruction page .pdf link. I also have a very long word doc on this issue, but it would be better served e-mailing directly.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464

-- Sharkey

 

[Dean Lampe]

Shoot me a e-mail and I'll read through it. After looking at what I can find on the subject, I am inclined to leave it as it is. If I need to hit the master disconnect at high RPMs, there is likely something gone seriously wrong and the alternater won't be a big concern.

Send it to thelampes at aol.com

 

[Mike]

E-mail sent - several options for a master kill switch hook-up. You're correct, if you're upside down and looking to kill the electrical - the life of the alternator at that moment should not be your 1st concern.

Shoot me a e-mail and I'll read through it. After looking at what I can find on the subject, I am inclined to leave it as it is. If I need to hit the master disconnect at high RPMs, there is likely something gone seriously wrong and the alternater won't be a big concern.

 

[Doug]

Hi Dean,
Didn't mean to sound alarmist. I think you now have a handle on the subject. Worrying about the alternator would seem silly in a real emergency, still, it'd be easy for a tech / corner work to turn off the switch by accident, if a remote switch is available on the exterior.

Once again, awesome job on your project.

Doug

 

[Alex]

Where did you get that remote resevoir from?

 

[Dean Lampe]

Alex, the remote resivoir (I think your talking about my expansion tank) is a custom job that was originally for my GT40. It has been on the shelf for 5 years now waiting for a home.

I was thinking about the panel behind the seats and the fact that if I have a problem, I would have to take the body off or the side bars out to get it off. I decided to split it down the middle.

I've already had to take it out once and it works great.

 

[Dean Lampe]

The fuel system is the same as many others have outlined here with the fuel surge tank. It was hard to get a picture of how all this lays out but here's what i got.

I might have used some of those pictures before but that's all I had. I used polished fittings because I ordered like 15 of them by accident from Jegs for the GT40 and just forgot to return them so here they are!

The fuel is pulled out of the main tank by a lift pump after it goes through a pre-filter. It is dumped into the surge tank where it is picked up by the Bosch 044 high pressure pump and sent to the regulator where it either goes to the fuel rail or to the bypass, back to the surge tank. The overflow from the surge tank comes out the top and back to the mail tank.

I have two -6 bungs on my filler neck. The tank will be vented out through one of those bungs or just out into the atmosphere, i haven't gotten that far yet. That's why there is a cap on one of the upper main tank outlets. The vent line will connect there.

I just need to put some gas in and check for leaks!

 

[Tim]

Dean,

What lift pump did you end up going with? To your knowledge and/or based on experience, how quiet is it?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Dean Lampe]

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...gle&utm_medium=productsearch&utm_campaign=gps

It is actually very quiet. I've used these before on the GT40.

 

[Randy V]

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...gle&utm_medium=productsearch&utm_campaign=gps

It is actually very quiet. I've used these before on the GT40.

Dang - That is a heck of a deal! The last time I bought them they were over $200 each!

Those are great pumps!

 

[Ben]

Any concerns of heat, being that the pump is located so close to the manifold?

 

[Dean Lampe]

Ben, I think your looking at the blue anadized filter? The pumps are tucked away back on the firewall. The 044 bosch pump is no visable. Its down by the surge tank behind the drivers seat.

I wanted the final filter to be just before the fuel enters the engine.

Wait until you see the oil cooler mount, that is much closer to the exhaust than the fuel pumps!

 

[Dean Lampe]

I was test fitting the drivers seat and discovered that the master disconnect was hitting my knee so It had to be moved over about 6 inches.

Something else interesting, I was testing my electrics with a battery charger set on a 10 amp setting. I thought I had done this before but it must have been on the 50 amp setting. Anyway, the relays in the GM harness were buzzing and the LED in the box was not lit. I thought I had messed something up. It turns out that when I put the battery in, it all worked. I guess I just didn't have enough power to turn on the relays and that was causing the buzz. Well, now I know.

 

[Dean Lampe]

I needed to finish the cuts on the body so I sat it up outside on some saw horses to avoid all the dust in the garage. I did the exhaust, doors, roof vent and coolant line cuts. Here are a few shots of the process.

Door cut

The others are pretty straight forward. I just need to paint the inside of the cockpit black and I will set it back on the car.