Dean's SLC build thread

I have a few projects I need to get done before the next track day. That makes it necessary to take the seats out and set them aside for a while.

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I have drilled a few different sets of holes in the floor and those need to be filled. I used some aluminum tape on the under side and filled the holes with JB weld then when it was hard, leveled it with a razor. Just like it never happened!

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The fire suppression system is going in next.
 
I talked to quite a few racers and drivers and even the techs at a few race parts warehouses and there just isn't a clear leader in fire suppression. I need something that will put a fire out and keep it out if something ignites in the engine compartment. There is just no way to get the rear bonnet off in time to save the car if I'm on fire. I don't think it is as likely to burn the cockpit area but you never know.

One of the guys I was talking to made a good point about the foam in the cockpit. If you are on fire and you need to get out of the car, the fire could be blocking your exit and if you are sprayed with foam, you might fare a little better. Also the foam will do a better job of keeping the fire out and not letting it re-ignite.

The down side is that I have heard the the foam is a mess and even corrosive to bare aluminum. You just hope you never need it but if you do, what is the best? Who knows. I chose this set up.
Steel bottle/mechanical actuator.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2426

The passenger seat had to go. My insurance guy almost had a stroke when I told him I gave a few guys a ride on the track. He thought it was a good way to test the limits on my liability policy. Maybe he's seen me drive!

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The bottle was test fit then bolted in. I ran a line to the front and the rear. The idea is to use 2 nozzles in the front and four in the back.

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The front was easier. Both spray at the driver.

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The rear got one nozzle on the exhaust manifold on each side, one in the center spaying the fuel rails and the last one at the fuel system.

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This kit comes with 2 handles. I wanted one easy to reach on the inside and one for the corner workers to pull on the outside.

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If anyone has any thought, please let me know. I have read and asked questions but this is something that i want to be right.
 
Nice setup Dean. One thing to be aware of is that AFFF can freeze and crack the bottle, at which point the systems doesn't work. Make sure to take the bottle out during the winter months and also if you're at an event early in the season.
 
Dean, your attention to detail is inspiring!

I'm considering a fire supression system for my J15 and found there really isn't much consensus available on what systems are the best. Can you share why you selected this particular unit over the others?

Thanks
Chet
 
Chet, I chose this system for a few reasons.
1. I wanted to use the foam. I was concerned about a fuel line rupture and I wanted to make sure that the fire would stay out. Halon just didn't make me feel comfortable that the fire would stay out.
2. I wanted a large system so a 4 liter was a big criteria.
3. I am not that conscience about weight so I went with steel to save money.
4. These system had 2 pull cables. If I am unconscious or unable to pull the release, I wanted to have a system that could be operated from outside the car.
5. The system connections can easily be taken apart and it was super easy to put together once I decided where to put the nozzles.

This was the least expensive system that addressed most of my concerns. I have heard the the foam is corrosive to bare aluminum but I haven't confirmed that.
 
Hello Dean

From what we experienced in Le mans with aluminium tub and this type of foam is . if after some bad fire experience you are enought courageous to clean inside tub before half an hour ( max an hour) with water , air etc and then spray WD 40 everywhere on alu area you will save your inside car . If not you will notice not a big corrosion but alu area and parts will be quite for ever mate and hard to clean or even polish .

We used also to spray frequently few WD 40 all over the cockpit to clean and protect when racing on wet circomtances and this help a lot to clean in case of fire and foam everywhere ( foam cloud will not stick so hard)
This was only possible when the driver was happy with this WD " parfum" LOL

Another solution ( but pricy for a tub !)is to anodise all alu parts

Hope this helps
 
Awesome build Dean! Quick question... I see that you have some venting cut into the rear of you SLC where the window would normally be. To achieve this, did you simply not cut out the fiberglass to fit the rear window and then cut out vents trimmed with mesh and pain it black or cover it in vinyl?
 
Hello Dean

From your pics cannot watch but have you drilled (or is it done by manufacturer) the red buttons end cable to fit some clip ?
In order you secure from unexpected movment during transportation or even shows to the public !!! ( Childs touching everywhere )
This clip on inside can be join with a small red flag you source from airplane shops and have written on "Remove before flight".

This remind me one story many years ago I own a sport 2000 cc LOLA and had a very young mecanic student with us on track on driver seat during suspension set up and once this setup ended we ask him to start the engine .... he lifted on main contact switch ,then pushed one button and wooooooooooow suddenly FOAM every where !!!!:stunned::stunned:
there was an electic push button to start antifire sytem close to the black start button and was not secured by any clip or red plastic lift cover !!!!
Week end OFF and cleaning session replaced race one !!! No fun at all:cry:
 
Matt,
My rear widow is just not cut out. When it comes out of the mold, it is all fiberglass and then the builder would cut the openings. Most people cut the rear fiberglass out and replace it with the window. In my case, that was never removed. The vent holes were cut in and screen was added under neither courtesy of RCR.

Mic,

The "remove before flight " banner is on the bottle where the safety pin is located. There is no need for a pin at the pull handles due to the pin at the bottle. It would be taken out as I enter the track and replaced as I get back to the pits.
 
Alex,

I know you're kidding but Kudos to Dean for a nice setup and photos. I have the same fire bottle and greatly appreciate the photos. It's always nice to see another's approach to installations most importantly when it comes to safety.
 
The whole"not catching on fire" thing is always a priority. I had 3 fires in my cobra I believe because of the Weber's but a hand held halon unit was always handy and worked great. This car is much different. The rear of my car doesn't just open up, it takes a Little effort by two guys that know where the latches are and they must be familiar with how the wing folds down. Most corner works don't meet these qualifications.
 
I decided not to put the red seats back in the car. The passenger seat will no longer fit (see fire suppression post) and the drivers seat doesn't hold me as tight as I like to be held!:stunned:

I call this the Frankenseat. It started life as a circle track Kirkey seat. The top was cut off and the sides were split. The split allowed me to recline the seat. There was about a 2.5 inch gap were I cut the seat when I was done with the test fitting.

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This is the test fit.

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I had the cover cut to fit as a temporary solution until I get the seat fully welded and a new cover custom sewn.

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I did a little painting with the duplicolor bedliner rattle can stuff. I wanted a surface that was easily touched up. Her's what it looks like.

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The paint is super durable and it should hold up well where the panels might touch as they flex under load.
 
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