Dean's SLC build thread

Ken why is that ? as I plugged mine as well with a npt plug. I thought it was for turbo apt's and if you were using them to plug it off.
 
Hey Guys, I run the regulator with the port hooked to manifold vacuum. I set the pressure with the engine running & vacuum to the regulator.
That way at WOT, the regulator increases pressure because of the vacuum drop. to make up for the pressure loss from increased fuel usage.
 
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#3 connects to #5 using #10 but your intake is flipped so you won't be using #10 (this creates a metered vacuum source for the engine-PCV) (there is no actual servicable PCV valve just a permanent metered orifice). I used nylon vacuum tubing to connect them together. Others use hose but make sure it's fairly rigid or you risk collapsing the hose.


#5 connects with #3
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Are these PCV pieces necessary or could you just cap off #5 and #3?
 
In my opinion the PCV system is absolutely necessary. You don't want positive pressure build up internally.

PCV = Pollution Control Valve. Feeds positive crankcase fumes back into the intake system.

Prior to PCVs (yes, I am that old), breathers, located on the top of a valve cover, simply vented the positive pressure to the atmosphere via a filter to keep oil in the engine.

So, no positive build up either way.

BTW, in CA, you MUST legally have a PCV regardless of date of block manufacture on your kit car.
 
In my opinion the PCV system is absolutely necessary. You don't want positive pressure build up internally.

I've been reading some threads on LS1tech about PCV and it seems to me that if you cap those 2 connetions and use a vented breather on the oil cap, you'll be fine. You may have to change your oil more often on a street car, but whatever, it's not like we're driving these cars 10k miles/year .... a few hundred miles a year and it's time for next year's oil change.

I can't see why this would be wrong because I look at my 408w and there's no pcv setup - it's just 2 vented breathers on the valve covers. Plus the benefit that the intake won't be soaked in oil as most LS engines are.
 
Welded an-8 fittings to valve covers, routed to a breather can with a filter and drain.
No oily intake for me! Placed the fittings behind baffles.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
If you don't run the factory PCV system then you will need to have the car dyno tuned as the metered air that enters the intake is located after the MAF sensor. The calibration will be skewed. You will most likely fail a visual emissions test as well.

The oil vapor that you say gets injested into the intake will somewhat cover your valve covers now.
 
If you don't run the factory PCV system then you will need to have the car dyno tuned as the metered air that enters the intake is located after the MAF sensor. The calibration will be skewed. You will most likely fail a visual emissions test as well.

The oil vapor that you say gets injested into the intake will somewhat cover your valve covers now.

That would probably explain why my 408's valve covers are all oily/grimey despite no leak anywhere :laugh:
 
This probably needs a different thread as to not clog up Dean's build thread but: IMHO – a proper PCV configuration extends oil life, diminishes oil contamination and helps engine sealing via internal vacuum. On the LS motor - fresh air is pulled in from one valve cover, travels through crankcase, and is pulled/exits from the other valve cover and/or the PCV tube just under the intake manifold. Use an oil/air separator catch can and plumb the exiting PCV lines into can and then from can into the intake manifold. The oil/air catch can helps remove oil residue and contaminants prior introduction to the manifold. Less possibility of oil build-up in intake manifold and less likelihood of octane knock due to oil laden fuel charge. I drain my oil catch can every 300 miles or so (1-2 ounces of oil laden vapor/fluid).

Now if a track car and the engine lives at wide open throttle, gets oil changes each weekend, either blows up or gets rebuilt frequently then probably won't matter much.
 
I was just looking back at the removable side intrusion bars and wanted to know if anyone knew if these can be used with the interior panels?
 
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