Engines' skewed a bit...

My engine seems to tilt a bit to one side as evidenced by the Weber turkey pan rubbing on 1 side of the clip opening. Would there be any harm, you think, if I installed a couple of washers under the motor mounts and the transaxle mounts on 1 side?:rolleyes:
 
Ray,


The rubbing that you've noticed is probably due to movement caused by engine torque. Let me guess....left side of the induction opening? Solid or urethane motor mounts should solve the problem.



Bill
 
Yup, Bill. LH side...but I DO have solid motor mounts and poly T-axle mounts. Washers may be too small to take the load so maybe I'll cut a length of steel 3/8" thick the size of the mount plate and drilled to fit the 2 bolts that hold it all together...:)
 
Ray,


Is anything flexing visibly under acceleration?

Maybe a passenger could take a look, while you're standing on the throttle.

Broken motor mount? Wouldn't be the first time that happened.

How small is the gap between the turkey pan and the f/glass?



Bill
 
She's rock steady and only rubs when I open up the clip. I think it may be one of those things that the early CAVs may have had or maybe at engine install (I didn't do the install)...although I've basically redone most everything. It didn't look bad or matter when she had the Holley, but now, there's about a 1" discrepancy between R&L. Here's a shot, and it's right at the corner nearest the lens.

WebersUnderGlass.jpg
 

Gregg

Gregg
Lifetime Supporter
Ray have you checked the measurements to confirm that the hole cut in the fiberglass is centered? Are the trumpets level? I would think if the trumpets are level that the engine is level and the problem is in the fiberglass.
 
Ray,

When I installed my TWM manifold, I had to do a minor "adjustment" on the fiberglass at the rear of the hole, in order to accomodate the fuel rail crossover block. I sanded the radiused edge back from the underside, so not to get into the paint, then touched up the black underneath.

I was thinking that your turkey pan sat underneath the clip, not through it.
Too bad that your pan isn't just a tad more vertical toward the back.




Bill
 
Ray,
I’ve noticed that it’s not uncommon for GT40 bodies to have been fitted out of square relative to the chassis (most bodies are not totally symmetrical anyway) so it may not necessarily be the engine that is skewed. The easiest way to check this is to squat down behind the car and compare how each rear wheel lines up with the outer edge of the bodywork (use the tyre tread pattern as a marker). It’s my guess that you will see enough difference to explain your engine location issue. Having said that, the simplest solution may still be to re-locate the engine.
 
Gregg said:
Ray have you checked the measurements to confirm that the hole cut in the fiberglass is centered? Are the trumpets level? I would think if the trumpets are level that the engine is level and the problem is in the fiberglass.
Gregg, Being that it's a CAV (turnkey-minus) I would think the hole is centered. The edges are also radiused so I think the hole is in the mold.
I'll have to put the bubble level to the trumpets, I guess. I'll use a frame crossmember as reference.
 
Fatal Attraction said:
Ray,

When I installed my TWM manifold, I had to do a minor "adjustment" on the fiberglass at the rear of the hole, in order to accomodate the fuel rail crossover block. I sanded the radiused edge back from the underside, so not to get into the paint, then touched up the black underneath.

I was thinking that your turkey pan sat underneath the clip, not through it.
Too bad that your pan isn't just a tad more vertical toward the back.




Bill
I've done a bit of that adjustment (sanding). Looking at the pan directly from the rear, though shows at least an inch discrepancy. I may just raise the left side a bit with a wedge or washers. I'm just afraid I'd twist things and compromise the integrity of the engine mounting.
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Hi Ray,

The biggest cause of your clearance issues is the Getrag transaxle. It requires the engine to sit higher as the input shaft on the transaxle goes in above the diff rather than below as in the ZF application.

On our 302/347 Weber or 8 Stack EFI units the heat sheild doesn't protrude through the rear deck so no clearance issues.

Of course changing to a ZF is a tiny bit more costly than sanding off some material:) Car looks fabulous BTW.

Here's a pic of a 347 EFI/ZF sitting at correct height. Sorry I don't have a pic of it with a heat sheild on but you can clearly see how much lower the engine is in the car. Food for thought...

Cheers
 

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