Fuel line leak...easy fix?

I finally tried to drive my 2006 SPF GT40 MKII with Roush 427R today...only to spot a pretty good fuel leak at a fitting at the end of the 6" long hose between front and back of the carburator. I removed the hose and looked inside to see plenty of the stainless steel weave protruding into the section where the hose mates to the opposite fitting. I took the fitting apart, snipped off the stainless braid ends to clean them up and reassembled. I still got a slight leak until I snugged it up some more.

Why it waited 20 years to leak is a wonder to me. I don't trust it anymore. What is the best solution? Are these sections available? Can I get one made to order at a FLAPS? Anything special to look out for? Thanks for any advise!
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Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Mike, that stainless line is known to leak as it gets older. As a service on anything I work on that’s been sitting, I replace ALL, rubber, stainless hose like that. Your life could depend on it.
Regards Brian
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
If you like the stainless look, you can replace it with that. BUT, use quality line like Aeroquip, or Russell’s or something like that. I would have to look, but there is a place online where you can get lines fully built to your existing specs.


Regards Brian
 
I totally agree with everyone else to cover all the lines. I would also use PTFE lined hoses. They don't get impacted with the ethanol in fuel the same and are easier to assemble, especially if you haven't made fuel lines before. The fittings are different but look very similar.
 

Lee Patterson

Supporter
If you replace the inlet fittings to the Holley, make sure you use the hard teflon washer gaskets. Don't use those crushable metal ones. And torque all the fittings to spec. Over-tightening the AN fittings or Holley fittings will create leaks.
 
I went to a local NAPA store to see about buying new hose to remake the hose section. They said they didn't have anything for AN fittings. In fact no one in the local city does any AN parts. Interesting.

I measured the center to center distance and the Redhorse 5150-06-5 would work. I don't see that they provide washers with their assembly, so I have reached out to ask.

I see reference to nylon washers Holley p/n 26-102. Looking for Teflon alternates...

Thanks!
 
Thanks gents! I have on the garage side that allows me to take the front body off to flush the brakes...it will be a month or so to get on it.

Then it will be back to the lift side of the garage for a check of the AC system belt. I did have the front end apart for the water pump and such, so I may have loosed the tension on it. We shall see. Just how does slow and steady win the race?

I gotta say, that short drive did get my heart rate up.
 
With some help from family, the front of the body is off and I will be trying to flush and refill the brakes and clutch. First off, I want to use my homemade pressure bleeder. Taking the old reservoir caps off tells me I have not taken care of this car...sad. I will want new caps and gaskets and perhaps can modify an old cap for the bleeder. I can't seem to find details on the specs for the original girling caps...I think it might be a P/N 64473143. Can anyone confirm this?

I measure about 2" outer dimension of cap, 1-1/4" inside reservoir hole and 1-3/4" outer dimension of reservoir threads.

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