Half shafts leaking - Riccardo Transaxle

[Kernie]

While under the car replacing the starter, I noticed both axle shafts were leaking.
The left one is actually dripping oil (slightly)
The right one is throwing grease all over the exhaust and wheel

Short of replacing them @ 1200 a/piece, is there any hope of refurbishing them?
Ricardo transaxle - I assume these are the standard Ford GT half shafts.


Thanks

 

[Alex]

Is your boots torn? It shouldn't be throwing grease everywhere

They arn't Ford GT half shafts - they are made by the driveshaft shop for RCR ... check w/ Fran

 

[Jac Mac]

Grease would likely be from CV, oil from trans.

 

[Kernie]

that doesn't sound good

 

[Cody DeHart]

I have had a similar problem, sounds like your two little bolts holding the CV's on might be broke. This is a common problem with these.
The bolts tend to shear off. Can you pull your CV's off the spline without unbolting or do they feel loose? If the bolts are broken then a company called ACCUFAB makes a bolt kit for it that is upgraded. I bought mine from treperformance.com after the install no more leaks or failures in 10,000 miles

 

[Kernie]

I have had a similar problem, sounds like your two little bolts holding the CV's on might be broke. This is a common problem with these.
The bolts tend to shear off. Can you pull your CV's off the spline without unbolting or do they feel loose? If the bolts are broken then a company called ACCUFAB makes a bolt kit for it that is upgraded. I bought mine from treperformance.com after the install no more leaks or failures in 10,000 miles

Thank you for the info. I will take a better look when I get back to the car on Friday. I really appreciate it

 

[Brian Kissel]

After reading Cody's response, I went to the TRE performance website. I was not able to come up with a part number. I then went to the Accufab website.https://accufabracing.com/ford-gt/ford-gt-rear-axel-bolt-kit . When I clicked on the specifications, I read this.
Technical Specs

Model Ford GT Year 2005-2006 Engine 5.4L Ford

Material Heat treated steel Black oxide coating ARP bolts


So, it looks like Accufab packages the bolts from ARP.

Their website lists the bolt kits at $279.99
If you go to this website,
http://www.fordgtparts.com/drivetrain/axle-bolt-set-accufab/
They have the Accufab bolt kit for $209.99

I wasn't able to find a ARP part number on their website however.

It was a big enough problem, that Ford stepped in in 2008, as referred to on the Ford GT Parts website.

" Note: if your car had the factory recall done from 4/2008 forward at a dealership, you most likely have the robust Ford upgraded bolts. "

THANK YOU Cody, for reminding me of this. I remember reading of this some time ago, but hadn't ordered the bolt kit.

Regards Brian

 

[Cam]

I'd think its a rip in the CV boot or the CV bolts are coming loose. If you sheared off the heads of the bolts on the ricardo side you can hear the heads rattling around if you just push the SLC without the engine running. Clink/clack! Easier then taking off the 1/2 shafts.

 

[Kernie]

Thank you Cam. I have the accufab Bolt kit plus two new shaft seals. Plan is to address the weeping shaft first. I plan on replacing the bolts anyway - just to be safe as I cannot ascertain whether they were every originally done.

For anyone keeping score at home - here is the part number for the seals: 4G7Z-1S177-BA. I was able to get two plus the "special" installation tool for $119.22 from FordPartsGiant.com

 

[Kernie]

Also - I was able to get the accufab bolt kit from TRE Performance for $204.00

Thanks

 

[Kernie]

An update.

I have successfully replaced the left (driver's side seal). Not a minute too soon as one of the bolts had sheared.

I had to remove the entire shaft (both sides) to get it out. I did not have enough clearance to separate the shaft from the output shaft flange.
So I had to remove the 6 bolts on the wheel side.

Question - Should I replace these bolts are well? They are the same size as the replacement bolts in the Accufab kit?

Also - I have to remove the cover of the output shaft flange to get to the output shaft washer. Looks like 6 bolts, same diameter but shorter. Should I replace these bolts as well or can I reuse them - If I need to replace anybody have a source?

Starting on right side tomorrow. Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[Kernie]

One other quick question - I plan to repack the grease as there was oil dripping out when I removed.
Is there anything (gease/oil) that is supposed to go into the flange where the washer is mounted?

Thanks again

 

[Bill Kearley]

I used ARP # 672-1008 bolts for Porsche 930 . Grease is a 50/50 mix of Swepco 101 moly and Bel-ray molylube anti-seize to pac the CV joints.

 

[Larry L.]

I'm late to the party here, but, the 1/2 shaft bolt problem was a BIG DEAL among Ford GT owners about 10 years ago before the cause was found: the 'bolts were made from an alloy that, in affect, caused the bolts to 'eat' themselves internally, become brittle and eventually self-destruct (snap). (Eventually there was a factory recall issued on 'em.) When these bolts 'let go' the rear wheels were instantly 'disconnected' from the drive train and tranny oil immediately "left the building"...so to speak. 'Very dangerous situation depending on the exact 'driving' situation at the time. Regardless, it was car hauler time.

Bottom line here is, if there's the slightest doubt about your Ricardo having the 'new' or 'problem' bolts installed - replace 'em. (By NOW the internal chemical reaction in the originals should have manifested itself...but..."Murphy" lives...so...)

As I recall, there were TWO separate replacement bolt 'kits' issued by Ford...the 1st one ended up being no better that the ORIGINAL 'problem' bolts. The SECOND 'kit' did the trick.

As was mentioned above, Accufab did their OWN research on the problem and manufactured their own kit early on...a 'kit' that proved to be dead-bang RIGHT ON 'fix it'-wise from the get-go. To this day I'm unaware of a single failure of the Accufabs.


http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...xle-bolt-issue?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...alfshaft-bolts?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...-Thread-(READ)?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

There are several 'bolt threads on fordgtforum.com ...go there and type "half shaft bolt problem" or something similar into the site's search engine. All the threads can be found that way...

 

[Kernie]

I'm late to the party here, but, the 1/2 shaft bolt problem was a BIG DEAL among Ford GT owners about 10 years ago before the cause was found: the 'bolts were made from an alloy that, in affect, caused the bolts to 'eat' themselves internally, become brittle and eventually self-destruct (snap). (Eventually there was a factory recall issued on 'em.) When these bolts 'let go' the rear wheels were instantly 'disconnected' from the drive train and tranny oil immediately "left the building"...so to speak. 'Very dangerous situation depending on the exact 'driving' situation at the time. Regardless, it was car hauler time.

Bottom line here is, if there's the slightest doubt about your Ricardo having the 'new' or 'problem' bolts installed - replace 'em. (By NOW the internal chemical reaction in the originals should have manifested itself...but..."Murphy" lives...so...)

As I recall, there were TWO separate replacement bolt 'kits' issued by Ford...the 1st one ended up being no better that the ORIGINAL 'problem' bolts. The SECOND 'kit' did the trick.

As was mentioned above, Accufab did their OWN research on the problem and manufactured their own kit early on...a 'kit' that proved to be dead-bang RIGHT ON 'fix it'-wise from the get-go. To this day I'm unaware of a single failure of the Accufabs.


http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...xle-bolt-issue?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...alfshaft-bolts?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

http://www.fordgtforum.com/forums/s...-Thread-(READ)?highlight=valehalf+shaft+bolts

There are several 'bolt threads on fordgtforum.com ...go there and type "half shaft bolt problem" or something similar into the site's search engine. All the threads can be found that way...

Agreed - I changed those to Accufab. Question is do I change the others with ARP or buy another set of Accufab since the bolt size is similar?
Also - what about for the spacer flange - these bolts are 10MM but quite a bit shorter than the other bolts. Trying to back one out to measure.

 

[Kernie]

Another question - can I reuse the old washer? If that is the case I wouldn't need to disassemble the flange. But assuming the washer is made out of the same material so better to replace?

 

[Larry L.]

Agreed - I changed those to Accufab. Question is do I change the others with ARP or buy another set of Accufab since the bolt size is similar?
Also - what about for the spacer flange - these bolts are 10MM but quite a bit shorter than the other bolts. Trying to back one out to measure.

Another question - can I reuse the old washer? If that is the case I wouldn't need to disassemble the flange. But assuming the washer is made out of the same material so better to replace?

I'd stick with Accufab if I were in your situation...simply because, as I mentioned, I've not aware of even ONE Accufab failure.

I B-E-L-I-E-V-E it was just the BOLTS that were made of the screwed up alloy. If that's accurate, I can't see any reason to replace the spacer/washers - unless new ones come with the replacement kit. In that case - use 'em! (I'd make sure the overall length of the SEATED bolt and washer combo didn't 'bottom out' when they're torqued down...just in CASE there might be a slight difference in old vs. new.)

Regardless, double check with an expert...say, Accufab, or whomever.

 

[Bill Kearley]

IMHO the best way to get the max out of this type of application is to use studs and measure the stretch with a dial indicator. The other old way is to go to given torque plus a given number of flats on a hex. Caterpillar still uses this. An old mechanical engineer or the likes of ARP or Accufab would have the answer.

 

[Kernie]

I went ahead and cleaned out both CV boots and repacked with Redline C2 Grease. Was a lot of fun trying to get the ball bearings back in.
Ordered the bolts for the wheel CV joint and flange (Thank you Bill). Hopefully have it all buttoned up in a week or so. Thanks again for everyone's advice. Made this task much easier and much less scary

Thanks again

 

[Cody DeHart]

I have never had a problem with the large bolts so I reused mine. The washer needs to be replaced because the new one is thicker and the old one will not will not work with the new Accufab bolts. I used the same grease as well.