Btw, with the GM crate engine ECU fans come on at 203 by default. Now that I got the O2 sensors wired properly, there's only a ~6-8* difference between the rear passenger head and front passenger head water temp reading (it would have been helpful if all those LS1tech posts bothered to state what the difference in temps should be, not just that they'd be different), e.g., digidash reads 198*, fans come on.
So if you don't mind adding 6-8* in your mind, that location works fine for taking a reading.
We broke it in on the dyno; took some video; sounds badass. Will post when it's uploaded to youtube.
Also, given how many people have problems w/ getting their rear-engine cooling system to bleed properly I was nervous about mine, but it's been rock solid
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/38563-cooling-system-help-leaking-out-cap.html
Basically T the radiator together, use 1.5qt Moroso/Canton expansion tank and make it the highest point in the system, 2 bleed lines to it (one -8 line from radiator, one -4 line from the bleed tubes for the heads on the engine), feed the bottom of it to the passenger-side pipe going to the waterpump with a -10 hose, T the heater in/out togeher.
So if you don't mind adding 6-8* in your mind, that location works fine for taking a reading.
We broke it in on the dyno; took some video; sounds badass. Will post when it's uploaded to youtube.
Also, given how many people have problems w/ getting their rear-engine cooling system to bleed properly I was nervous about mine, but it's been rock solid
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/38563-cooling-system-help-leaking-out-cap.html
Basically T the radiator together, use 1.5qt Moroso/Canton expansion tank and make it the highest point in the system, 2 bleed lines to it (one -8 line from radiator, one -4 line from the bleed tubes for the heads on the engine), feed the bottom of it to the passenger-side pipe going to the waterpump with a -10 hose, T the heater in/out togeher.
