It lives! (but no tach :/ )
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Dave Lindemann
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I LIKE IT - Congratulations Alex! One step closer to completion......
Dave L
Dave L
Congrats Alex! Unfortunately, you'll know when you've over-extended your clutch when the clutch fork bearing boss inside the bellhousing of the transaxle breaks off. Sounds to me like you've probably got a pretty good handle on your clutch stop position though. That is normally about how I adjust them.......clutch in far enough to roll free, and then give it just a touch more travel to be sure it is completely disengaged.
Great Alex! WTF is that white stuff on the ground?
I think I'm slowly getting there - the only thing I don't like is that I think I still have too much extension (but not overextending) on the clutch - i like very little travel from when i lift off the clutch pedal to when the car begins to pull forward.
Like in my cobra - maybe 1/8'' of travel from when my foot is off the clutch stop to when the car is moving forward.
With a hydraullic clutch, if you did not set your clutch stop far enough down - say you almost had it, but it was still not far enough, would you know? For example, would it be impossible to move the shifter into gear with the engine running?
polar bear droppings
I have to be very cautious at this time of year when I go outside ..... the polar bears get awefuly hungry and are fairly well hidden in the snow
Thanks - I have too much travel to my liking so I prpbably set it too far down. This time i'll take a different approach - flat ground, Neutral, then clutch in slowly until I hit the point where the shifter slides into gear, then set it about 1/2'' down from that point.
Followup question on the clutch - is there a difference between how far the pedal needs to travel between a cable and a hydraulic clutch?
I examined a few of my cars and what I noticed is that in my cobra (mustang; cable based) if I put it on flat ground, off the clutch, then slowly press it in while gently pushing on the shifter knob, after the point where the shifter slides into gear I've got, roughly, 1/2'' of additional travel.
If I try it in my z06 (hydraulic), after the point the shifter slides into gear I've got massive travel, like 2-3'' it feels like.
I don't have access to my other OEM cars at the moment to test this out, so I'm just wondering if a hydraulic clutch setup needs more travel after it hits the point where the lever slides into gear, or if this is just how the manufacturer (GM) set it up - crap load of travel past the gear can be engaged?
I examined a few of my cars and what I noticed is that in my cobra (mustang; cable based) if I put it on flat ground, off the clutch, then slowly press it in while gently pushing on the shifter knob, after the point where the shifter slides into gear I've got, roughly, 1/2'' of additional travel.
If I try it in my z06 (hydraulic), after the point the shifter slides into gear I've got massive travel, like 2-3'' it feels like.
I don't have access to my other OEM cars at the moment to test this out, so I'm just wondering if a hydraulic clutch setup needs more travel after it hits the point where the lever slides into gear, or if this is just how the manufacturer (GM) set it up - crap load of travel past the gear can be engaged?
I think your thinking to much! I found it easer to make this a two person job. I had my son push on the car with it in gear. I gradually pushed in the clutch to the point that the car would move easily and set the stop 2 turns past that. Done.
To test, do the reverse. Push in the clutch and have someone turn the wheels or push the car, then let of and see how long it takes before the clutch engages.
To test, do the reverse. Push in the clutch and have someone turn the wheels or push the car, then let of and see how long it takes before the clutch engages.
So is this a valid way to set the clutch stop then:
- Flat ground
- Turn car on
- Clutch out
- Gently push the shifter knob. As I push the shifter knob, slowly depress the clutch.
- Wait for the point where the shifter knob slides into gear
- Mark that point, give it an additional 1/2'', and set the stop there
- Test you can sift 1-6 and R with the car on and on flat ground and there's no grinding or fighting it into gear
Done? The above works beautifully on my 65 cobra's cable clutch.
My biggest fear, not being the least familiar with hydraulic, is that there's some hidden tricks i'm not aware of, like the above will get it into gear smoothly but it won't be fully engaged so you'll be causing 3x the wear because you need additional travel beyond what you think it is even though there are no signs (e.g., grinding, etc..).
Alexsisisisisiis, afraid of ruining $2000 clutch from mechanical ignorance
I'm paranoid about this after over-extending my cobra's clutch and almost ruining it in the first few miles :/
- Flat ground
- Turn car on
- Clutch out
- Gently push the shifter knob. As I push the shifter knob, slowly depress the clutch.
- Wait for the point where the shifter knob slides into gear
- Mark that point, give it an additional 1/2'', and set the stop there
- Test you can sift 1-6 and R with the car on and on flat ground and there's no grinding or fighting it into gear
Done? The above works beautifully on my 65 cobra's cable clutch.
My biggest fear, not being the least familiar with hydraulic, is that there's some hidden tricks i'm not aware of, like the above will get it into gear smoothly but it won't be fully engaged so you'll be causing 3x the wear because you need additional travel beyond what you think it is even though there are no signs (e.g., grinding, etc..).
Alexsisisisisiis, afraid of ruining $2000 clutch from mechanical ignorance
I'm paranoid about this after over-extending my cobra's clutch and almost ruining it in the first few miles :/
You can do it that way I would guess. I've just never set the clutch with the car running.
Maybe I"ll do it w/ the car running as a check. The last time I did it the way oyu're describing I wasn't satisfied with the clutch (way too much travel on it) but that may be because my old clutch stop method didn't have a tremendous amount of adjustability on it.
This is about how I do this adjustment also.....except I just run a punch down thru the brake rotor with the car still on jack-stands and have someone push on the punch as I push in the clutch. As soon as the brake rotor moves, I set the stop there and then turn it in 2 or 3 turns (3/8-16 threads) and lock it down. If, once the car is finished and on the ground, it seems difficult to get into gear with the engine running, I'll spin the stop in another couple of turns.
There's no real difference between cable and hydraulic adjustment, but there is a huge difference in how much overtravel will be acceptable between a typical clutch/T.O. brg and a Porsche clutch/fork unit in a G50. It's not so critical that you are only allowed 2mm of clutch pedal overtravel, but I wouldn't want to push my luck and give it much over an inch of overtravel either. You'll know when you've overtravelled it too far when the fork pivot boss inside the bellhousing breaks off.......
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