Jay's build log

first week with the SLC. first thing I did was torque all the pre-assembled parts. used a red sharpie to stroke each bolt after torqued, found it the best way to keep track. Bolted in the roll cage and firewall on the 2nd day and did minor allignment and camber adjustments so the wheels face fairly straight. also spent about 4hrs with 600 grit wet sanding flash lines on mid section and rear.
Finished off all the brake lines, ended up reworking some of the lines in the footwell, tried to get them as close to the wall as possible so they wouldn't become a foot rest. I also ran all the coolant tubing that came with the kit, sprayed tubing with DEI ceramic coating and made my own spacers using 1/4 inch square tubing. I also went to the local parts store and picked up short pieces of standard rad hose with 45 degree elbows total cost for 4 elbows $65. trying to save money where I can. waiting to pick up my front clip and radiator to finish the rest of the connections. I also assembled and mounted pedal assembly and masters. picked up a heavy duty L bracket from the hardware store and also mounted the fly by wire gas pedal. Finished sanding all the flash lines, haven't decided if I am going to paint or go with the 3M matte black vinyl wrap.

Doc Kaler

GT40s Supporter

Check your image size and try to adjust to 640 x 480. Maximum size is 2048 x 1020 for .jpg format but the smaller size will likely prevent a "time out" and they look fine.
With regards to the pedals, are you planning on using drive-by-wire throttle? is that why the difference in top vs bottom pedal mounting?
Any concerns about using the 45* rubber heater hoses to join the pipes in that location?

I had initially run mine like that but was worried that it, taking a constant pounding from crap on the road, might fail quickly, so I mandrel bent up some 1.5'' stainless to remove the join there.
For my oddball LS1 DBW, I fabricated a hanging pedal because it was easier than
modifying the original pedal assembly for the backwards functioning (opposite) rheostat unique to the LS1. The LS1 also has an intermediate Throttle Control Module between the pedal and the engine PCM. Easily done though. All other LS engines do not use this.
I am not really concerned about the rad hoses as it took quite a bit of elbow grease with a hacksaw to get through. It's some pretty durable stuff. I am using the fly by wire system with my LS376, I followed the directions in SL-C build manual to making it a hanging pedal. This is my first ever build so I am trying to keep it as close to a standard build as possible. I'm sure it will still out accelerate, corner, and brake every other car in my small canadian town.
Been spending alot of time in the garage theses days. Got the radiator mounted. The plastic mounting brackets had a bit too much movement so I cross drilled in a 1" screw to hold the radiator firmly in place. once the rad was in I made a template out of cardboard for the remaining hose needed and found a match at the local parts store. $27 per hose as apposed to $65 for stainless. Also got the resevoirs mounted and hoses run to the masters. just waiting on few brake hardware parts and I can bleed the lines and close the brake chapter. Sunday afternoon I layed out my fuel system 100micron filter> walbro pump> surge tank> bosch 044> aeromotive regulator> 40micron filter. I am going with mr gasket push on fittings with mr gasket fuel hose, both are rated up to 250psi and I figure it will save about $300-$400 over braided stainless.resize front.jpg

resize fuel.jpg
i think you want the post-pump filter before the regulator, and it be ideally 10micron, not 40.

No idea about the quality of mr gasket push-on hose, but I'd give serious consideration for aeroquip - you get what you pay for with fuel hose. if you go with a cheapie like Russels or Fragola you can face potential problems like dry rot and a lot of fuel weeping through it. Also seen multiple instances of cheap push-on fittings blow off (specifically Fragola). Aeroquip or bust for me for all critical fuel components imho.
Thanks for the tips alex, I am going through a huge learning curve and any help is appreciated. I haven't run the lines yet so putting the filter ahead of regulator is no biggie. would you go 10 instead of 40microns for better flow or what is the reason?
100pre, 10post is usually the most common/recommended setup. 40 is typically is you're just putting 1 pre-pump and none post-pump.
Jay, looks great. i wish i put my fuel system out on the frame like youre doing. then if you get a leak it doesn't puddle up under your seat.
following thee advice of others I got and aeromotive 10micron and mounted it pre- regulator. I also ran about 80% of my fuel plumbing lines with the mr gasket high pressure push on hose. wasn't sure how secure it would be until I had to try to remove one and ended up removing the connector and had to cut the hose off. This weekend I finally got my LS376 mounted using Fran's new bolt in crossmember. I mounted the crossmember to the GM mounts and lowered the motor onto to chassis. fastened the adapter plate to black mounts already attached to the chassis. than I marked off where i would need to drill for crossmember. I tried to drill with motor resting on the frame but there was no possible way of getting a straight hole even with a 90 degree drill and shortened bit so I unbolted plate, lifted motor back out drilled holes and it dropped right in. I spent today cutting apart the GM wiring harness and reworking it so i could mount the ECM on the fire wall an still reach all the outlets. I have to thank Cam the idea of seperating the throttle wire completely and running it down the center through the gas tank. completely out it easily reaches the pedals with about 6 inches of wire to spare engine1.jpg