Joel’s SL-C Build Thread

Joel K

Supporter
Have you trial-fit your windshield yet? My advice is to do so as early as possible. The body MUST be fit to the windshield. The windshield cannot be flexed and must sit relaxed.

Hey Howard. Not yet. But kept a .25” clearance on both sides at the narrowest area of the body near the lower ledge where the windshield will go. From everything I’ve seen and read, the windshield can be wider than the body at the lower corners. So if anything, the body will need to be built up or bowed out slightly to make it fit. So hopefully will all work.

Once the windshield is fitted, then will slim down the a-pillar covers.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Have you finished your fuel delivery lines yet Joel? Sorry if I missed that part in the past. I’m curious to see your fuel pressure transducer addition to the fuel line.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Have you finished your fuel delivery lines yet Joel? Sorry if I missed that part in the past. I’m curious to see your fuel pressure transducer addition to the fuel line.

Not yet, probably do that in the next month or so. Next up is to run the engine harness.
I have the fuel pressure sensor setup from Speartech but have not selected the fittings or fuel line which connect the fuel pump to the engine. They are both quick disconnect type fittings. I have pics of the C8 setup for reference, but not sure what I’ll actually do.

Was wondering if hard lines are preferred over soft lines and if I should use a bulkhead fitting to run the line through the rear fuel tank area close out panel or just use a grommet.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I used the stock nylon hose as it’s dirt cheap and used by most OEM. The fittings are about $10 and 20 foot roll of the tubing is under $50.

Just remember that the fuel tank isn’t hard mounted so design the system with a bit movement planned. I have a friend who lends me his hydraulic flair tool that can make transition fittings in stainless tubing such as the OEM push lock and hose barbs.

I have been using more and more of the Goodridge teflon hose from Pegasus Racing. The 811 stainless and 910 aramid for more flexibility.
 
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Joel K

Supporter
Feeling good about finishing the chassis fabrication work and time to start on the electrical. First up is the engine harness.

This post covers the layout and temporary install of the engine harness. It will be permanently installed once all the electrical items are located on the chassis, mounting holes drilled and sound dampening installed.

Here is a video walking through the engine harness…

I went with a standalone harness from Speartech Fuel Injection Systems, Inc. They specialize in standalone harness fabrication for GM LS and Gen V LT engines.

I chose Speartech because of their positive reputation and they were willing to custom make an emissions legal harness. If you require ODB2 emissions compliance you will need a factory PCM and standalone harness. The GMPP or aftermarket ECUs cannot meet full ODB2 emissions testing. Even the E-Rod GM ECUs do not have all the emissions readiness flags in the software to pass ODB2 emissions.

Speartech worked off a diagram I provided and made the harness to spec. Making it to length eliminates the challenge of laying the harness out neatly for a rear engine car like the SLC. Here is a pic of the diagram…
705D7DF4-A8EE-4191-AD48-484A7C4748C9.jpeg


Some of the special items incorporated into the harness:
1)Make harness length and layout to spec
2)Include electronic cruise control sub harness and cruise ECU
3)Plug unused pins on the PCM to protect it from elements
4)Flash E92 PCM for stock tune and manual trans for 2015 Corvette
5)Full emissions with two sets of O2 sensors and EVAP components
6)Wired for Cadillac CTS-V pedal
7)Provide sub harness for GM Fuel Pressure Control Module and fuel pressure sensor which controls the Gen 5 Camaro ZL1 fuel pump which is variable pressure via PWM

Here is a pic showing the main trunks and where they will connect…
F5D4422F-8A40-4527-AD0C-4D946966F301.jpeg


Here is a pic of the electronic cruise control module. Totally plug and play with the engine harness…
BD791000-1CAE-4AE0-BE1B-1D54E3F889F4.jpeg


Mounted the PCM in the usual spot. Used a Corvette factory mounting tray which allows you to snap the PCM in/out if needed. The Main trunk travels along the rear passenger frame rail over the k-brace to the back of the engine. Will add some heat shielding where it crosses over the exhaust…
986B3E96-1A4E-4441-9DC5-CCF584E00022.jpeg


Trunk #2 travels down low behind the rear fuel tank area close out panel. It runs through the rear close out panel sealed with a large grommet and connects to the fuel pump control module, fuel pump pressure sensor, and fuel tank pressure sensor. It also connects to the intercooler pump and EVAP vent control solenoid….
82FE3720-E94A-4F36-8153-E7CF326C3F03.jpeg


The combined #3 & #4 trunk passes through a large grommet and into the passenger compartment. I chose this location since it is reachable from inside and outside of the car if the harness needs to be serviced…
,
1385071B-F178-4261-B27C-E29239D3D6C0.jpeg


Decided to run the combined front trunk across and behind the dashboard. Then run the #3 branch for the pedal and cruise control to the pedal area and the #4 branch along the top of the driver’s side frame to mount the ODB2 and PCM fuse block on the driver’s side wall…
5735D696-2E0B-4F0D-8F19-0126899BCC07.jpeg


Turned out branch #4 for the ODB2 connector and Fuel and Intercooler pump Relay-Fuse Block was too long. I changed the routing months after the harness was fabricated.

So if you want to make a similar harness I would not use the 74” measurement in the diagram above. Hard to nail every detail perfectly but that is an easy adjustment, better too long than too short…
78B85320-F75C-4A8A-AE91-624D97E3DFA8.jpeg


Pic of branch #3 for the accelerator pedal and cruise control connectors…
7CA46CD9-0491-4C6E-9742-0CED18278896.jpeg


Routed Trunk #2 along the fuel tank close out panel and through a grommet into the fuel tank compartment…
82FE3720-E94A-4F36-8153-E7CF326C3F03.jpeg



The harness fits neatly right behind the dash. I don’t require the full depth of the center dash bezel so that will be trimmed to insure enough clearance for the harness…
5027C0BD-6798-4C65-91DC-EEA212E55CAE.jpeg


All in all I’m very happy with the layout. I missed a few details and a few connectors are a little short(primary O2 sensors and alternator connector branch) due to the non-stock location of where I placed those components. Anyway, it‘s been fun to start a new phase of the build!
 
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Joel K

Supporter
Time to continue the electrical aspect of the build. Most SLC builders use the Infinity Box System. Some builders for one reason or another opt to go in a different direction.

I decided to go with the AIM PDM32 and various options. I like the fact it is all integrated in one package and the power distribution functionality is user programmable. It should greatly simplify wiring the car and I can also vouch that the AIM tech support is superb.

Here is a demo of my initial configuration. You will get a good sense just how powerful this system is…

Purchased these components…
AIM PDM32 with 6” Screen
AIM 4 Button Pro Keypad
AIM 8 Button Pro Keypad
Data Hub
Channel Expansion Hub
AiM RIO I/O Module

In total, this system has 50 Inputs and 30 outputs broken down as follows…
20- Analog or digital inputs
15 - Digital only inputs
2 - Speed Inputs
1 - GPS Input
12 - Keypad Digital Inputs
14 Lower power outputs
12 Mid power outputs
4 High power outputs
4 Half bridge outputs for two reversing circuits(Will control EPB and Ramliftpro)

It also can connect to OEM and aftermarket ECUs, a CAM recorder with telemetry as well as a library of race tracks and telemetry analysis tools. Pretty amazing what this platform can do.

1st step was to set the components on a board so I could learn how to program the system…
C46FDEE2-A5DB-483F-B5B3-073D031402FC.jpeg


Then via the AIM software package you label all the inputs and outputs of the system. Then design the screens you want to use…

Main Page…
DC7B4F24-F794-4BC0-A8AA-5D42404AC727.jpeg


Details Page…
5FE56D3F-E0FA-4C82-89A6-4C802DE6568A.jpeg


Tires Page…
A537CD03-1CF7-44A4-9538-21F2FD5AE43F.jpeg


Climate Control Page. The plan is to replace all the controls, wiring and relays from the Vintage Air system with CAN key pad buttons and outputs via the PDM. There will also be an auto temp mode which will set the temp like in a modern car…
CED88180-98DC-44E0-BC8B-F607167C7CCE.jpeg


After that you set up how your buttons will function as well as setting the logic and characteristics of your outputs.

Pic of Raptor Pro Steering Wheel Button Assignments…
23765A18-CA7A-442F-B7A6-CEB5F6D20B86.jpeg


Pic of Blink Marine CAN Keypad Assignments. It integrates very well with the PDM…
03BF6C20-D031-4B2C-B707-211F3E18397F.jpeg


In general I configured most buttons to be momentary buttons. Then processed button presses with a construct called a status variable. These status variables can get very sophisticated and allow you to control outputs based on complex logic. The example below programs a single button to turn on an Auto Lights function, parking lights, low beams or off. The auto lights turns on the headlights based on a light level sensor built into the PDM…
779A4DF7-AA64-4DF0-931C-6C3FA8BD6E99.jpeg


After the status variables were configured then I configured the output channels. Output channels can be PWM controlled, square waves, soft start, full bridge reversing circuit, etc. etc. There are so many features. Here is an example of the Intercooler Fan Logic. It normally runs at 33% speed when the engine is running. Then goes to 66% when IC Water Temp is over 80 degrees and 100% if IC Water Temp is over 100 degrees. But if the car is exceeding 60 MPH it shuts the fans off…
FCB19838-9044-48B8-8C88-0F6A4425C719.jpeg


After that is done, you configure your icons and alarms which can display messages and display physical Icons or virtual icons. Physical are LEDs on the right side of the display and virtual icons are small bitmap images which you can select or custom make your own. Here are a bunch of bitmaps, many of them I designed myself…
8CB80E39-D4E5-43C3-8F66-5CB9D4C4C72F.jpeg


At this point the PDM is configured and ready to be installed and tested with real loads. The system has a test mode where you can set values and simulate a functioning PDM to see if it operates as expected. Future posts will cover the main PDM wiring harness and specifics about controlling various components in the car.
 
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All I can say is WOW!

Nice work Joel, I love all the information you will have at your fingertips and how relatively simple the system components are. All the programming certainly was not simple and was time consuming but I can see that you enjoyed it. Excellent work and I cannot wait to see all these toys in action on your car.
 

Joel K

Supporter
All I can say is WOW!

Nice work Joel, I love all the information you will have at your fingertips and how relatively simple the system components are. All the programming certainly was not simple and was time consuming but I can see that you enjoyed it. Excellent work and I cannot wait to see all these toys in action on your car.

Thanks Kurt, I was pleasantly surprised how well this system works. This by far has been the most fun part of the build for me.

The way AIM distributes its product is the software is free and you can download it on a PC and start configuring your system. I spent a couple months playing with the software and got a good sense that it could do what I wanted so placed the order. So far so good, it will be interesting when I start plugging in real loads and see how it goes.
 
I like this AIM configuration software. It appears more intuitive than the RACEPAK stuff ive used.

From a switching standpoint does the AIM system off a toggle swit solution in their product line? does it easily allow the use of your own switches?
 

Joel K

Supporter
I like this AIM configuration software. It appears more intuitive than the RACEPAK stuff ive used.

From a switching standpoint does the AIM system off a toggle swit solution in their product line? does it easily allow the use of your own switches?

Hi Dusty,

I chose the CAN Keypads because I like the backlit button design and reduction in wiring. All the logic you see in the demo can be done with standalone buttons. All the inputs are available via the main harness(There are 12 Inputs) and then I have a module called an AIM RIO which stands for remote input-output and that has an additional 19 inputs and two outputs) via it’s own harness. Some of these inputs can be configured as analog or digital and the rest just digital.

The analog inputs are for sensors, the digital inputs are for buttons or other on-off devices. All digital inputs can be close to ground, some can be configured as close to batt. There is a built in pull up resistor if you close to ground.

Any of the digital inputs can be standalone buttons. For example, My Hazard Button will be a standalone LED Latching button. Others examples will be door ajar buttons, etc. You can use momentary buttons and add latching(toggle) logic in the PDM or use real toggle switches. Either way works.

This PDM can connect to the digital cluster you see with a single cable. It can be used standalone but a big part of the benefit of the system is the integrated dash.

There are a few things it doesn’t do or I haven’t figured out a way yet, but all in all it is pretty powerful.

Happy to answer any other questions.
 
Similar to the Racepak in function
Inputs: 12 hardwired direct (voltage triggered or ground triggered.
Outputs: 30 (8 outputs @ 20 Amps, 22 outputs @ 10Amps)

for switching the racepak allows the user to similarly use their own switches or Racepak offers a similar touch pad with the same function as the aim. They also offer a robust toggle switch bank of 6 switches. For basic on/off switching nothing beats a toggle switch-especially in racing applications. The dash display in the AIM is light years better than the Racepak.

For those considering this technology think about the following scenereos...you can run 2 fuel pumps and the system will automatically switch to the second pump if the first fails. If a devise blows a fuse (like a fuel pump) and trips the fuse (solid state) the machine will restest the devise again in a couple seconds and see if its realy broke or if the spike in electricity was a gremlin.

I started using Racepak in 2012. I will never go back to wiring with a fuse box ever again. Having user programable dummy lights is wonderful. The programable safety logic with these systems is also reassuring. For instance, when my oil pressure falls below a certain pressure for a certain number of seconds when RPMs are above 3000 rpms...Then the ls3 will shut itself down in my racecar.
Keep up the great build
 
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Joel K

Supporter
Inching forward on the build. For the sake of completeness this post covers the finishing touches to the pedal assembly.

Previous posts(Post #90, #91, #153, #171, #224, #232, #244, and #290) document the approach to adding power brakes to the SLC and also designing some fore-aft adjustability to the Tilton pedal assembly.

This post covers adding the GM drive by wire throttle pedal, clutch master cylinder and also how I’ll monitor brake and clutch pedal travel for various purposes.

First up is the install of the GM Throttle Pedal. RCR provides a bracket which mounts the GM throttle pedal to the side of the Tilton pedal assembly. It is up to the builder to add a linkage which connects the Tilton pedal assembly to the GM drive by wire throttle pedal.

Here is one example of how the GM throttle pedal could be fitted to the Tilton pedal assembly using the RCR bracket…
A754408B-FBA1-4D13-8F0E-77998A6E31A4.jpeg


When installing the pedal assembly, I aligned it to the seating position. It turned out there is not enough room to the right of the pedal assembly for the GM Throttle Pedal so I could not use the RCR bracket as designed…
2BCE1638-4CC8-4226-9F13-2E2E19B70B8B.jpeg


I have a semi adjustable pedal assembly so it would have been nice to design a solution where the GM throttle pedal moves with the Tilton pedal assembly. I played around with a few designs and also considered RCR’s optional cable mounted throttle pedal kit.

In the end I decided to simply mount the throttle pedal on the front chassis wall. Hector and Cam T took this approach. So fabricated a mounting bracket which is similar to a mirror image of the RCR bracket with mounting holes positioned to mount it on the chassis front bulkhead...
9C3727D6-AF2A-4FE9-889E-4BE8D4AD3010.jpeg


With the bracket mounted high on the chassis front bulkhead, the GM Throttle pedal is placed out of the way and aligns nicely with the holes in the Tilton pedal assembly…
5BC85E6A-46CC-497F-AD5A-60169FE7375B.jpeg


Purchased the following from McMaster Carr for the pedal linkage:

1) McMaster Carr PN 97832A - 18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw - 1/4" Shoulder Diameter, 7/8" Shoulder Length
2) McMaster Carr PN 94450A220 - Left-Hand Threaded 18-8 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut
1/4"-28 Thread Size
3)McMaster Carr PN 91847A429 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut 1/4"-28 Thread Size
4)McMaster Carr PN 90101A011 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw 1/4" Shoulder Diameter, 9/16" Shoulder Length, 10-24 Thread Size
5)McMaster Carr PN 59915KA - Corrosion-Resistant Ball Joint Rod End 1/4"-28 Internal Thread, Right Hand
6)McMaster Carr PN 59915K4 - Corrosion-Resistant Ball Joint Rod End 1/4"-28 Internal Thread, Left Hand
7)McMaster Carr PN 8422N9 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Turnbuckle-Style Connecting Rod
1/4"-28 Thread, 6" Overall Length
8)McMaster Carr PN 918310A - 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut 10-24 Thread Size

Another benefit of this approach is that you can choose any of the linkage holes in the Tilton throttle pedal to adjust the ratio. The top holes provide the most aggressive throttle response and the bottom providing the least. By rotating the turnbuckle it will adjust to fit in any of the holes in the Tilton Pedal. I chose a starting point right in the middle. Also removed the spring from the Tilton Throttle Pedal to reduce pedal pressure required. No need to have two throttle pedal springs. Pic of the linkage installed…
071F204F-93A0-428A-94D4-8B3F5C2E7788.jpeg


Now on to the brake and clutch switches. The approach is to use the AIM hydraulic pressure sensors. These sensors have a range of 0-2000 psi so they can be configured in the AIM PDM for the following purposes:

1)Display brake bias
2)Trigger brake lights when PDM senses light brake pedal pressure in either front or rear brake lines
3)Enable starter when PDM senses medium brake pedal pressure and full clutch pedal pressure
4)Disengage cruise control when PDM senses either light brake or clutch pedal pressure

Pic of the brake pressure sensors installed. The front pressure sensor is installed after the proportioning valve…
636A412A-E254-4F50-8C17-35279D298A82.jpeg


Used the 3/4” Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch. Had to trim the threaded rod down a bit, but otherwise it bolts to the Tilton Pedal assembly nicely…
BE69D145-0D53-4F99-80FB-3EF4C7BD7B64.jpeg


The clutch line bulkhead fitting was installed in a non stock location and could not use the RCR provided stainless clutch hose. Purchased the following items to connect the clutch pressure sensor to the master cylinder:

1)Speedflow PN AF140-03-SS - 3AN to 1/8 NPT Tee
2)Russel 655022 -3AN to Straight 3AN 90-Degree Hose

Clutch fluid pedal sensor installed…
8B55115B-DD4A-435C-A7F2-C7FEE6EE29A0.jpeg


Pedal assembly mounted in the chassis. I like how clean the installation is…
84DF2A96-E58B-427D-AF6B-B116E2BCE307.jpeg



From the behind…
75C4EC99-EBEE-431C-AA35-23F1325B0D57.jpeg


Lastly, if I ever needed to move the pedals forward or backward it would require different length push rods for both the accelerator and brake pedals. The design goal was not to be able to quickly move the pedals, but rather if they had to move, I wanted to avoid drilling any additional holes in the chassis. So all in all I am satisfied with the setup.

Another item checked off the list!
 

Joel K

Supporter
Now that the exhaust is finished it’s time to design and install some heat shielding. I am placing the cats in the same location as Johan and Mark B so leveraged some of their designs into my solution.

Since the cats are relatively close to a number of components, the shielding will be key to avoid a host of heat related issues including burning the SLC to the ground…
2E849B48-38CA-4053-99A3-C1D594806A54.jpeg


On the driver side, these components will require shielding:
1)Liquid to oil cooler and tubing
2)Knock sensor and wiring
3)Rear chassis and engine harness branches
4)Shock Absorber

On the passenger side, these components require shielding:
1)Shifter cables
2)Knock sensor and wiring
3)Rear-most spark plug wire
4)Engine Harness main trunk
5)Shock Absorber

I looked at a lot of heat shielding products and decided to go with a product called Zircoflex Form Shield. It is a thin embossed 304 stainless sheet and has ceramic coating applied to both sides. The main reason for choosing this material is that it is very thin and can actually come in contact with a heat source like the exhaust system without melting or burning.

When having a 20mm air gap, Zircoflex Form Shield reduces radiant heat by 86% and when in direct contact it reduces heat by 40%. There is one small spot where the air gap is about 5mm, but the rest of the area meets the 20mm gap so I’m hopeful this will work out well.

So first mocked up the panels with construction paper and masking tape…
E2771886-26C9-4401-894D-7D13C3F9AABA.jpeg


Once I got the shape correct on paper, then cut panels out of AC duct sheet metal from Home Depot. Sheet metal is inexpensive and similar in thickness and bendable like the Zircoflex Form material so is ideal for making precise templates.

Now that I had precise templates, next step was to make the actual panels out of the pricey Zircoflex Form material. Zercoflex Form cuts easily with tin snips and can be bent or curved without much trouble. Since it is shipped in a roll it has a slight curvature to it, but by reversing the curve you can pretty much flatten the material out.

Zircoflex panels all cut out. I chose to have the gold side face the heat source, but it really doesn’t matter since both sides are coated with ceramic…
B9251164-DD8E-4E2C-B8DA-E61E4CBB8B96.jpeg


Had to find a way of mounting the shields to eliminate rattling. Front of the heat shields attach to front engine mount stanchions with p-clamps. Center mounts to engine block, and rear mount to transaxle.

Pic of driver side bracket piggybacking off an existing hole in the engine block…
04CDED83-1EEA-49E2-B643-487CEF42C2A3.jpeg


Passenger side bracket…
0CF36F96-CC55-4709-8FE2-A97055246D3E.jpeg


Passenger side shielding installed with knock sensor mini shield riveted in place…
46363909-7D2D-4869-A035-3926B2A527DE.jpeg


Pic of using the p-clamps to secure the front of the heat shield…
2FC2BC77-B574-46D5-BF64-0D76E8C445FE.jpeg


On the driver side, the heat shield covers the knock sensor wire and liquid to oil cooler. The GM oil cooler tube already has heat shielding applied, but added a mini-shield for further protection from radiant heat…
F20D69BC-1F9E-479F-85B3-792E16E94460.jpeg


Now with the exhaust installed. The passenger side heat shield and exhaust system in place. The panel is nice and thin and clears the exhaust to provide some air gap to help mange the radiant heat…
71184178-303E-4CA0-83DC-998DE26B8C46.jpeg


Now the driver side with the exhaust installed…
81812866-76EE-40E8-8E5E-97D60A8C6E9B.jpeg


In a future post I’ll cover some additional shielding and wrapping of the components listed above.

Lastly, I may ceramic coat or wrap some or all of the exhaust to further reduce radiant heat. Also planning to scavenge some of the airflow coming off the intercooler fans and direct that air to the catalytics. Those fans run continuously and having them run for a few minutes after turning the car off should help prevent the cats from cooking the shifter cables.
 
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Neil

Supporter
Inching forward on the build. For the sake of completeness this post covers the finishing touches to the pedal assembly.

Previous posts(Post #90, #91, #153, #171, #224, #232, #244, and #290) document the approach to adding power brakes to the SLC and also designing some fore-aft adjustability to the Tilton pedal assembly.

This post covers adding the GM drive by wire throttle pedal, clutch master cylinder and also how I’ll monitor brake and clutch pedal travel for various purposes.

First up is the install of the GM Throttle Pedal. RCR provides a bracket which mounts the GM throttle pedal to the side of the Tilton pedal assembly. It is up to the builder to add a linkage which connects the Tilton pedal assembly to the GM drive by wire throttle pedal.

Here is one example of how the GM throttle pedal could be fitted to the Tilton pedal assembly using the RCR bracket…
View attachment 131375

When installing the pedal assembly, I aligned it to the seating position. It turned out there is not enough room to the right of the pedal assembly for the GM Throttle Pedal so I could not use the RCR bracket as designed…
View attachment 131379

I have a semi adjustable pedal assembly so it would have been nice to design a solution where the GM throttle pedal moves with the Tilton pedal assembly. I played around with a few designs and also considered RCR’s optional cable mounted throttle pedal kit.

In the end I decided to simply mount the throttle pedal on the front chassis wall. Hector and Cam T took this approach. So fabricated a mounting bracket which is similar to a mirror image of the RCR bracket with mounting holes positioned to mount it on the chassis front bulkhead...
View attachment 131376

With the bracket mounted high on the chassis front bulkhead, the GM Throttle pedal is placed out of the way and aligns nicely with the holes in the Tilton pedal assembly…
View attachment 131377

Purchased the following from McMaster Carr for the pedal linkage:

1) McMaster Carr PN 97832A - 18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw - 1/4" Shoulder Diameter, 7/8" Shoulder Length
2) McMaster Carr PN 94450A220 - Left-Hand Threaded 18-8 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut
1/4"-28 Thread Size
3)McMaster Carr PN 91847A429 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut 1/4"-28 Thread Size
4)McMaster Carr PN 90101A011 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw 1/4" Shoulder Diameter, 9/16" Shoulder Length, 10-24 Thread Size
5)McMaster Carr PN 59915KA - Corrosion-Resistant Ball Joint Rod End 1/4"-28 Internal Thread, Right Hand
6)McMaster Carr PN 59915K4 - Corrosion-Resistant Ball Joint Rod End 1/4"-28 Internal Thread, Left Hand
7)McMaster Carr PN 8422N9 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Turnbuckle-Style Connecting Rod
1/4"-28 Thread, 6" Overall Length
8)McMaster Carr PN 918310A - 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut 10-24 Thread Size

Another benefit of this approach is that you can choose any of the linkage holes in the Tilton throttle pedal to adjust the ratio. The top holes provide the most aggressive throttle response and the bottom providing the least. By rotating the turnbuckle it will adjust to fit in any of the holes in the Tilton Pedal. I chose a starting point right in the middle. Also removed the spring from the Tilton Throttle Pedal to reduce pedal pressure required. No need to have two throttle pedal springs. Pic of the linkage installed…
View attachment 131378

Now on to the brake and clutch switches. The approach is to use the AIM hydraulic pressure sensors. These sensors have a range of 0-2000 psi so they can be configured in the AIM PDM for the following purposes:

1)Display brake bias
2)Trigger brake lights when PDM senses light brake pedal pressure in either front or rear brake lines
3)Enable starter when PDM senses medium brake pedal pressure and full clutch pedal pressure
4)Disengage cruise control when PDM senses either light brake or clutch pedal pressure

Pic of the brake pressure sensors installed. The front pressure sensor is installed after the proportioning valve…
View attachment 131380

Used the 3/4” Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch. Had to trim the threaded rod down a bit, but otherwise it bolts to the Tilton Pedal assembly nicely…
View attachment 131384

The clutch line bulkhead fitting was installed in a non stock location and could not use the RCR provided stainless clutch hose. Purchased the following items to connect the clutch pressure sensor to the master cylinder:

1)Speedflow PN AF140-03-SS - 3AN to 1/8 NPT Tee
2)Russel 655022 -3AN to Straight 3AN 90-Degree Hose

Clutch fluid pedal sensor installed…
View attachment 131381

Pedal assembly mounted in the chassis. I like how clean the installation is…
View attachment 131385


From the behind…
View attachment 131382

Lastly, if I ever needed to move the pedals forward or backward it would require different length push rods for both the accelerator and brake pedals. The design goal was not to be able to quickly move the pedals, but rather if they had to move, I wanted to avoid drilling any additional holes in the chassis. So all in all I am satisfied with the setup.

Another item checked off the list!
"...key to avoid a host of heat related issues including burning the SLC to the ground… "

I had that happen to my Porsche 911. With a rear- or mid-engine car, you are the last to know that you're on fire!
 

Joel K

Supporter
"...key to avoid a host of heat related issues including burning the SLC to the ground… "

I had that happen to my Porsche 911. With a rear- or mid-engine car, you are the last to know that you're on fire!

I agree Neil, it certainly can ignite without the driver having a clue. I also want to install an extinguisher system of some type in the engine compartment. Not sure if it should trigger automatically or just have a manual handle.
 

Neil

Supporter
I agree Neil, it certainly can ignite without the driver having a clue. I also want to install an extinguisher system of some type in the engine compartment. Not sure if it should trigger automatically or just have a manual handle.
In my race car I have an automatic and a manually-actuated Halon extinguisher in the engine compartment and one manual for the cockpit. Good insurance; a stay in a burn center can be expensive.
 
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