Just bought a Miller Synchrowave 200!

I believe the plug is different. Check the power plug. The common lead will have an 'L' shaped plug blade instead of a straight blade. You can go to a Home Depot/Lowes and get these plug receptacles. Be aware this may not meet local electrical code if you're using it inside the home.
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The problem is not so much the physical connector as that is easily changed.

The real question is whether or not the circuit that the dryer is using is adequate for the welder. I am a Lincoln guy and so don't know the Miller specs, but I'm guessing that your welder specs call out a 50 amp circuit, not the typical 30 that dryers normally see.

Using a 30 amp circuit for a 50 amp load will cause the circuit breakers to pop when you begin to use any power- and that is the best case. :uneasy:

It's best to run a dedicated circuit, with the right breaker and wire size.

Randy V

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Bill,

Congratulations on your purchase! :thumbsup:

Your welder will pull a max of 54 amps according to the specs here;

I think that's going to be a bit beyond most dryer outlets as most dryers (the ones I've had) were connected to 30 amp circuits.

That said - it should work at lower power settings. Consult your manual for the power requirements at various amperages and use that and the *popping* breaker as your guide. Or - Wire in a new circuit altogether..

I recently purchased the Miller Dynasty 200DX welder which is an Inverter unit. It draws a max of 16 amps - but the cost was a bit more than the Synchrowave.
I am a Lincoln guy and so don't know the Miller specs, but I'm guessing that your welder specs call out a 50 amp circuit,
Correct in the fact that a 30 A breaker won't work. The owner's manual states anywhere from 45 A to 54 A for DC Tig to AC stick with the Syncrowave. 50 A breaker would cover DC tig and stick (45 and 47 A, respectively) but if you have to run new lines you might as well go with a 60 A breaker.

Page 10 of the owner's manual.

Miller - Owners Manuals

EDIT: Beat by Randy...
Remember that the breaker box you have in your house is limited on how much power it can handle. You may have to run a new box for any new power that you want to use. Nothing like tripping the main breaker while your wife is doing the cooking!! A little research or call to the local electrician might help. Make sure you have an empty bay or two in your box if it doesn't.

Since we're on the subject of welders I'm looking for a TIG that will weld aluminum say up to 1/4" and SS. I really don't want something that's the size of a dryer. Used works for me but what should I be looking for. I did some stick and gas welding many years ago so I'm not up to the latest info.

I'd like to keep it around a $1000.00 or less.

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Good for you! Nothing like having a good welder to make your own parts. I use 100 amp breaker on my 250 sync-wave, its perfect for what I do, also has chiller for the top. I use 100 amp shore power cable used for yachts, its very flexible and lets me take the welder outside if I need to do something on the vehicle itself. I weld aluminum, stainless with no problems for an armature hobby welder.

Richard the 200 series would be perfect for what your talking about welding. You will have to develop some skills for welding aluminum, its pretty tricky, you have to be patient. I have to use cheaters in my helmet to see the tip of the tungsten when welding small objects.

One word of advice, it will screw up your TV if not grounded correctly, really makes the wife mad. :(

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Richard, I paid $2700 for my unit new in 1995, its fairly large in size and bet it weights 400-500 lbs but think the new units have more solid state parts and much smaller. Not familiar with Lincoln but they have been around a long time.
The V160 is DC only so you can do stainless and steel no aluminum. You need 30 Amp breaker for it. It does have the amperage adjustment on it though.
I have a Synchro 300, It is hard wired as it draws in excess of 120 amps, thats on a single phase circuit, and of course for full output, which you should not see often.
The connector you are looking for is a NEMA 50. It has the straight blades for power, one smaller than the other, and a D shaped ground lug. Avoid those home depot plastic cheapies, go to an electrical supply house.
If you plan on doing any aluminum you will need to go to a watercooled torch, you wont get too far with a gas cooled unit. Of course the torch needs a cooler, a cheap unit runs about $450-500.
You should be able to power your unit using a NEMA 50 plug and a 60 amp breaker in the box. just try to limit your cable length to the machine.
Also, if you buy a torch get one with 25' leads, you won't regret that.
There are also other things you might need, accessories and such, pm me if you need more info.
A 50A breaker should be OK for most of what you'll be doing with that particular model, however, it's not just the correct breaker you need, you also need the correct gauge wiring. 12/3 w/grnd (which is often used for 3 pole 240V circuits like a 30A dryer outlet) is too light for a 50+A circuit. I'd use a 10/3 w/grnd dedicated circuit minimum.

Also, check your main breaker box - if you have a 100A box then your main breaker is a 100A breaker and you might blow the main with a draw surge from your welder and some other things in use at the same time (wifey cooking on an electric stove and daughter using a hair dryer and 3 TVs all on at the same time). You'd be best getting a 200A box if you don't already have it as you'll have extra breaker slots and be able to handle the load of a dedicated 50A circuit.
As much as I would like one it seems you need a very expensive monster to make it all work. I have a friend with one of these water cooled things but thought it would be handy to have my own. Power isn't an issue as I have 400amp service into the house but I'm currently in a two car garage so the welder, mill, lath and the other big tools may have to wait. Damn!