Ken's SLC build thread

Joel K

Supporter
Thanks for posting Ken, my chassis holes are just marked but also passenger side is about 5mm higher.

Passenger side...
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Driver side...
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Roger Reid

Supporter
Good catch Ken. Important to take care of before installing a nose hinge when they become available. I agree on your choice of 7/16" fastener (or 10mm equivalent).
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Joel's measurements are also lower on the drivers side but everyone's measurements are different. They seem to be all over the place....yikes!
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here are before and after pictures. Note the front black painted splitter support rod connecting the two vertical plates is perfectly aligned with the square tubing welded to the foot box front wall.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I'm going to switch over to these dual Spal brushless fans instead of the 17" C6 Corvette fan and controller. Each fan requires a 40amp fuse and is rated at 300watts. The variable speed controller is built into each one. I'm running a C6 Corvette Z06 program so the pwm signal is already in the wiring. If you are using a GMPP engine control harness then this Lingenfelter box is needed. https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L460320002.html
I'm in the planning stages for the shroud currently.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Took the coolant pipes off for the last time and installed the silicone sleeves. I used heat shrink clamps on either end for a nice look. Great to use under the GTR fuel tank as well. The sleeves will also lesson the sound of stone strikes on the tubing in the front wheel wells.

sleeve 7569K15 (20ft)
clamp 5470K18 (4)

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I redid my lower a/c condenser mounting brackets. These ones are removable so I don't have to fabricate new ones when the radiator needs changing. They are made from stainless and held in place with stainless rivets. The upper brackets are aluminum and welded to the radiator. Rivets won't work on the top. The core is a bit too close for my liking. Now I can finish my condenser lines. Prototypes were bent up to get an approximation.
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Ken Roberts

Supporter
A/C questions for fellow builders:
1-did you lubricate the O rings and if so what with?
2-did you add oil or just go with what is pre-installed in the compressor?
3-how much R134 is required for charge?

I am using the Mastercool crimping tool for assembly of the hoses. The instructions say to ratchet the top half down to the mark embossed on the side (this leaves about a 1/8" gap before the two halves touch). If you watch the Mastercool video on You Tube he says to ratchet the top half all the way down till both halves touch. If you watch Allans video He mentions torquing to 80ft lbs. That is the same as ratcheting all the way down. It just gives confirmation of the process. I think I'll go with Allans method of ratcheting the top half down till it meets the bottom half and then listening for the torque wrench click to confirm. I studied this after learning of Cam T's mistake.
 
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Howard Jones

Supporter
Lube o rings with compressor oil. Most compressor come with required amount in them when new but confirm with compressor supplier. The gas amount will vary with installation but will be addressed when whoever pumps down your system, checks for leaks, and fills it to proper pressures when operating. Have them put in die when they do it the first time. If it leaks later it makes it easy to fine leak.

Good overview article:


Video:

 
I can confirm if you follow the mastercool instructions and stop at the line, that you will absolutely have a leak. I turned it about 1/4-1/2 turn past the line, not all the way down. After troubleshooting, I had to go back and re-crimp 100% of my lines due to following the instructions, super frustrating.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here's a good way to organize your coolant hoses and a/c hoses. To group all four together I just use long bolts and spacers as shown in the second picture.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
I moved the shifter forward slightly for better reach and used the extra space for the 2 push button switches for ABS and Dynamic Stability Control. ABS can be be turned on/off and the DSC can be switched to competition (m track mode) /off/on with a momentary push button switch.

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Ken Roberts

Supporter
Looking for ideas on how to make the inlay. I made a very accurate cardboard template. The side of the template/inlay wraps around the console a bit. So it has to be easy to bend. A nice gray carbon fiber hydro dip would match the C6 Corvette instrument cluster I'm using. Please help!;)
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Hopefully I didn't miss something here....
Seems to me a thin sheet of aluminum would do the job, even if it was only to capture the shape. Roll the aluminum over a suitable piece of round stock to get a consistent bend, then use that as the form for a carbon or other composite actual part.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Hopefully I didn't miss something here....
Seems to me a thin sheet of aluminum would do the job, even if it was only to capture the shape. Roll the aluminum over a suitable piece of round stock to get a consistent bend, then use that as the form for a carbon or other composite actual part.
Thanks for the tip. That's what I was thinking also.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Laying out the pattern for the GT-R shroud. These are 15.2" Spal 300watt brushless fans. (each one actually measures 15.7") In my opinion they are the perfect size for a 32" by 16" shroud. Unused space that will block the air flow at speed is kept to a minimum. I made the mistake of buying the sheet of aluminum in 6061. It can't be bent on a brake. I have to cut the sides out and then tig weld it all together to form a box. I discovered this fact while building the shroud for the SLC. Here is a link to where I purchased them.

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