Ken's SLC build thread

After hearing Howard describe how the tow operators yank you out of the cat nip quickly because everyone is on the clock and their lack of caring I thought it would be a good idea to over engineer that piece. The last thing I want is for it to bend and damage the body from an off angle tow/pull.


Ken - I am talking with Fran about doing a new build. I would love to get the sexier Canards on the front fender and in front of the rear fender. Where did you get your Canards and thoughts on what you would do differently with them or other options you considered. Thanks
The canards were a group purchase a couple of years ago built by a guy in the UK. They are about the widest size available while still being road legal. The track canards like on Howard's Car are cooler but would not pass an inspection for road registration. You might find a used set if you post in the parts for sale/wtb section.

I've never seen canards in front of the rear fenders.

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Getting ready to install the doors again from scratch with steel plates installed this time on the spyder and front of doors. I removed the 1/2" x 20 studs from the hinge and made threaded transfer punches from a couple of bolts I had laying around. I'll install the doors with wood shims for alignment then swing the hinge forward to mark the location of the holes on the steel plates on the doors. That should give me a good starting point. I have the spyder sitting on a stand so this should go smoothly for initial door alignment.

Howard Jones

Yes, in the door so they are compressed when closed. No problem for 4 or so years. The green one was before final black paint. The other one in the same picture was what came with my early car. It rubbed on the hole in the body so I made a thin version of the exact same shape from chrome molly. The studs are welded in a slot and the female threads for the rod end is a piece of tubing suitable for 3/8-24 treads and also welded into a slot.

You can make em……….. I cut mine out with a saws all, hand fines and a sander. If you are worried make em from 3/16 and if you want to hang the car from them, 1/4 inch. Just to test, make one from 6061 T6 Aluminum and see what you think. 1/4 inch would be easy to cut out and stronger than 1/8 4140. The aluminum studs and threaded bung will not be as easy to weld as steel but a lot lighter. That's why I did mine in steel......easy to weld.

Go for it!
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I know some of you have mills, what about milling both sides of the plate slightly and then bonding on a thin HDPE sheet. Like the thin plastic vegetable cutting mats.
As shown in the pictures..... the grinding is limited to the bottom side of the assembly only. I'm guessing the door flexes as it's swinging through it's ark creating excessive movement in the aluminum hinge arm. A bearing would help control the movement of the aluminum hinge better than a rod end that pivots freely. Even a bronze bushing would be better than a rod end but that's probably too much load on a single bushing. Both Howard's and Bob's method address the movement in the aluminum arm. Both would require a new arm to be fabricated.

These suggestions are great. Please keep them coming!

What if a roller wheel was installed where the position of my thumb is in the first 3 pictures. You can see my thumb catches the travel of the arm in all three positions. The roller wheel can have a tread out of nylon or rubber perhaps. A custom bracket to hold the wheel could be mounted/bolted to the bracket where the X is drawn in the fourth picture. The fourth picture also shows the contact path of the roller wheel.

A track roller wheel something like this.....

I made a CAD file that holds a bearing at the pivot. Water jet from 1/2" aluminum. Works great. No rubbing and looks good.
Bob, I like it!
Since I have the original steel version, hate the scraped up look, would prefer aluminum AND has been tested successfully - this looks like the answer for me.
May I use your file? I'd have to modify it since the steel bracket center to center of the door mount posts are narrower.

Bob, how did you make the hinge plate out of 1/2" aluminum when the studs that thread into it are 1/2"? Did you use smaller diameter studs?
The factory aluminum hinge plates had a design change sometime around 2015. Our earlier hinge plates had the two studs center line spaced at 1 1/4". The updated design has the studs spaced at 2.82". Mesa has the early design. The real early design (first few cars produced) were made from steel. Mine in 2012 were aluminum.